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THE CHEMICAL 

LAUNDRY GUIDE 



DESIGNED TO TEACH LADIES THE ART OF LAUNDRiU4G CLOTHES ACCORDING TO 
CHIIMICAl. PRINCIPALS AND THE SUPEtTIOR METHODS EMPLOYED BY 

CITY LAUNDRIES; 



- — ci'M AI^■|^,(, ■ 



AFULLAND EXPLICIT TREATISE 

LINEN J'OLISHINCI, 

AND THE SKILLFUL WASHING AND r?ENOVAIION OF AmiCLES OF tVERY MATERIAL 

OVER THEEE HUNDEED LAUNDKY METHODS. 



— .v-/ ^AAo...J/|6./C 
WALLACE W. NlXOr^o/wI^ nne^"^? 



I.YNCHlJUIUi, VA. 

J. r. BELL t.S5 CO., 
1879. 



U 1 1 



'irh_^ Kntered according to act of Congress, in the year 1879, by 

~\/\''>'l°^f^ Wallace W. Nixon, in the oflice of the Librarian of Con- 
^ ^ ^'J grcss.at WashiTimon. All rights reservni. 




^ 



'^>5: 







The Combined Cornisjatcd lHossing and Moldiii;? Iron. 



m 



IN! 







''I 



2.-PURCHASING CONTRACT. 



''plIE Self-Ad ju.-ting Shirt Bourd, the Combined Cor- 
X rugated Cllossing and Molding Iron, nre c-ach ^^(H'ur- 
ed by United States Letters Patent, (^'o. i.'(i( ;,.".:.{» and 
No. 210,55 1, granted, July 23rd, '78 and Dec. iSrd, 'is, 
respectively;) and the Cheniieal Laundry (iuide is 
secured l)y Copyright. These arliclcs cannot bo pur- 
chased from any firm or stores, nor are they Ar*/,/ 
under any circumstances; they are merely given 
away to purchasers of Family Tvights. It is only tlie 
Family Right tliat is sold, and for Ihe u^-e of tlie }>ur- 
chasers only. Any person or persons fonn.d using or 
manufacturing any of these Patents without a legiti- 
mate right, will be fully proseoiited. Tt is a part of the 
consid(M*ati()n of the ])urchasing contract, and is agreed 
to In' the purchaser of the Family Uight, not to lend 
the articles. 



k 









vi 






3-PREFACE. 

THE Cliemieal Laundry Guide is submitted to the 
public to supply a want that lias long existed, for a 
reliable laundry guide tor laniily use. (^lentlemen who 
Iiave ever had their linen done up at a fashionable city 
laundr}^ are delighted with the beautiful gloss and pearl 
linish that is given it. They also admire its clearness 
and stifihess, and notice how much longer their linen 
done ujt in that style, keeps clean. They wonder why 
it cannot be done with the same skill at home. Ladies 
who send various articles, lace curtains, dresses, linen 
suits, laces, etc., to the city laundry, receive them back 
looking as bright and having the same lustre as when 
bought at the store new. They admire and wonder 
how it is done, but tlie methods employed are to tliem 
profound secrets. There is no magic about them, how- 
ever. The methods are simple and easy to follow. If 
ladies only understood them, they could have the pleas- 
ure and satisfaction of doing up articles at home in the 
laundry style. Every lady knows how to wash and 



iron in the usual \V3.y ; but ut a large laundry establish- 
ment, where the most experienced and skilled hel[), 
( even the celebrated Frencli humdress from Paris,) is 
employed, where laundry work is iu process every week- 
day of the year, where large sums of money are expen- 
ded in making experiments, it is no wondrr tluit such 
an establishment should possess methods vastly superior 
to those employed by the family, or washerwoman. 

Laundry work is now a profession, as is evinced 
by the perfection of work attained by the laundries of 
the East. It is the design of the C^hemical Laniuhy 
Guide, to teach ladies liow to do up articles in a ; tylc 
equal to that of the best French laundress. 

The author has had extensive experience in laundry 
v.-orlc, having himself worked in one of the best 
laundries the country affords, and having been engaged 
for several years in teaching fine laundry work in large 
cities. He has also visited a number of noted laundries, 
and investigated and studied their methods. 

A boolv of this kind, however, in order to l)e com- 
plete and contain reliable methods embracing every 
department of scientific laundry work, and fully treating 
of the successful renovation of articles of every material, 
must of necessity, partake of the nature of a compiled 
work. The major part of the methods and directions 
presented, are those now employed by the best laundries, 
and the author learned them directly from the laumlries. 



He is :ilso iiulebted to Muspralt's C'liiMiiistiT applied to 
tlie arts, Dick's Encyclopedia, (loodliolir.cs Encyclope- 
dia, Inquire Within, and other sources too numerous to 
admit of acknowledgenient. Also uumy new and use- 
ful laundry metho<ls aiul expedients have been met, and 
a practical knowledi^e of their merits gained, during 
several years of travel in teachin.g the '«ery woi'lc itsell'. 
From such varied and extensive opportunities, the au- 
thor has gleaned much valuable information respecting 
laundry work, which could in no other way bo olitained. 
No method or direction is presented but what lias been 
thoroughly tested, aiul is eminently practical Mid reli- 
able. It has been the aim, not only to nuike tlie direc- 
tions full and ex])licit, but also to give the theories upon 
which the methods are based, ami to so explain the 
principles u]:)on which the Narious reagents act, that 
the knowledge of each method may be tluti-ough and 
complete. 



NORTH GARDEX, VA., 

June, 1879, 



AV. AV. NIXON. 







L i^^iS-^^^kt)^^ 






4-CONTENTS. 



PA \IT I. 

CHAPTER. PAGE. 

I. (ilossin^' Liiioii 15 

11. N'uriou^ Staivhts and tlieir Use 30 

111. Washing 51 

J \'. Soaps of Domestic Manufactun^ (54 

\ . Stains on Linen and Cotton 81 

\'I. Care of Linen 10:^ 

Vll. Ini]»ro\ed Method of (fitting and Arakinii; 

Shirts Ill 

r A 11 'i^ J 1 . 

A'lir. Trinted Goods of Delicate Colors 140 

IX. Woolens and Flannels 151 

X. Renovation of Silks 1(54- 

Xr. Laces, Satins, Velvets, i^-c 180 

XIL (lentlemen's (notliing 212 

XIII. Kenovation of Carpets 226 

XIV. Renovation of P>eds and Bf^dding 240 

General Index from 253 to 274 



-"■^Sr^^ 



5.-INTR0DUCTI0N. 



AT the outset, an ex]tlaiiati()n of the purpose ami scope 
of the Cliemical T.aiindry (Muide, may be of ben- 
efit to the l)eglnner in the ait of hm^ hiumli'v v/orl:. 

Every hidy is in practical pof^ession of the ele- 
ments of washing and ironing, and this work is in- 
tended to supplement this practical knowledge, by pre- 
senting methods that will ali'ord easier and ha]»pier re- 
sults, make thefinesseof tine laundr}' work famili;ir, and 
awakena definite interest in this most essential domestic 
ai't. Ladies are l)y far too conservative. They steadfastly 
follow old methods, leaving to the specialist in domestic 
arts, to discover and profit by superior methods, and to 
accomplish what they never imagined could be done. 
T^o doubt agents, M'hen introducing this subject, will 
be often met with the assertion, that ladies already know 
too much about washing and ironing. Forsooth, there 
is too intimate an acquaintance with the M'ays our fore- 
mothers did household work, but in this progressive age 



xii 
domestic arts have made wonderful advancement, as 
well as general science and the polite arts, and there is 
mnch that can be learned even by the oldest and best 
lionsekeeper. The interest and satisfaction too, afforded 
bj' metliods lliat effect quick, easy and admirable re- 
sults, will turn the irksome tasks of the laundry into 
pleasures. 

Although strictly a reference book for family use, 
tlie Chemical Laundry Guide embraces nearly eveiy 
method that would be of service to the professional 
launderer or laundress ; and its careful perusal and stiuly 
will be very profitable, for many hints will be received 
thereby, whidi will suggest exjjeriments ncxer before 
thought of in this branch of domestic economy. When- 
ever choice and delicate articles of any material retpiire 
hiundrj'ina' or renovating, the Chemical Laundry Guide 
may be proiitably consulted. The index at th.e end of 
tliebook willbe found especially conveniontforrcference. 
l>y reading the Explanatio:i of the Tiulcx, ( ?,\ 7 ) its plan 
and arrangement will be ri,'adilv understood. Tlu^ iriCth- 
ods are numbered, and whorover numerals occur in the 
context, they refer to the methods of those nu:nbcrs and 
not to the page numbers ; and to avoid needless repe- 
tition, where other metliods have an important Ijearing 
upon the one under consideratien, references are given. 
It is always advisable to look up the references. 



Many ladies may think perhaps, that the directions 
in tliese metliods are too })rccisc and over nice, that 
it makes little difference, whether soft or hard water, 
white or yellow soap, one or two washing and rinsing 
waters be nsed. The fact, however, cannot be too strong- 
ly urged thnt the more exactness with whicli nice laun- 
dry operations are conducted, the more perfect and 
pleasing will be the result. This idea of exactness is 
recognized in every other science, and why should it not 
be likewise in this'^ \\^ tlie directions be closely follow- 
ed, even the most vari;ible methods will rarely fail. 

Tn several of the departments, and especially in the 
removal of various stains, two or more methods are pre- 
sented for nearly the same purpose, and a lady may be 
pnzzled in respect to which it is best to en)])loy. Nat- 
ural judgement, however, will seldom lead astra}'. 
Every method presented is essential to some f(.»rm of 
laundry work, some case, or some material. It not un- 
frequently happens, however, in the more varialde pha- 
ses of laundry work, that one method will produce the 
desired effect in one case, and a happy result will follow, 
while the same metliod and precisely the same treat- 
ment for what is considered a similar case, will have 
little or no effect ; hence it is necessary to resort to some 
other treatment, to suit the particular case under ex- 
periment. To meet all cases, therefore, liaAc the several 
different methods been introduced. And when any 



particular one has been eelected for any particular case, 
and it does not have the desired eftect, it will only be 
necessary to resort to another, being careful always not 
to condemn the tirst treatment, until it has been thor- 
oughly tested, ^uch perplexity is not likely to occur, 
unless it be with very obdurate cases. 

The various chemicals employed in the metliods,will 
not injure the finest fabric nor the most delicate of 
colors, if used acM-ording to directions. Full directions 
accompany tlieir use, and where precaution is required, 
it is stated. No lady, therefore, need hesitate to employ 
any method, because the chemical agent is not familiar. 
The cost of nearly all these chemicals are trifling, and 
they may be obtained of any druggist. 



-^ -A^ ®l 






CHAPTER I. 



6-GLOSSING LINEN. 



THE art of[)olisliing linon or giving starclied {irticles 
the same gloss and pearl iinish they j)osess when 
first purchased, is little understood outside of regular 
laundries. It may be easily ac(jiiired,liow(!ver, and its 
benefits are manifold. One of its chief advantages is, 
the great length of time that glossed articles will keep 
clean. Dirt cannot grime into the fabric, but slides ofl" 
the glassy surface. Everyone is aware, how long new 
collars and cufFt^ will wear without soiling, — twice as 
long as the home done up collar. Again, the stiffness 
is retained by the gloss. Ladies often notice that when 
articles starched in the usii;d manner, are laid awny, 
they soon become limp and tlm -tiffness dci'arfs. It 
Beems as though the starch evaporates. Er-^pccially is 



16 

this the case in wet weather. Glossed articles, on the 
contrary, retain their stitihcss in defiance of moisture, 
for any length of time. Ample proof of this is afforded 
by new shirts ; may be they Ijiy in stores ibr ye;ti-s, be- 
fore they arc sold, yet they are always lirm and >^ti<f. 
This characteristic of the gloss particularly adapts it 
for the edges of fine fcurtains and choice pillow slips, 
where it is desirable that sue-h articdcs ^hcudd keep 
clean and stiff' for a long time. Another excellent i)oi]it 
is, that -when polished articles become soiled, they can 
be washed so readily. The dirt lias n(.>t ])cncl rated into 
the linen, it is only on the surface ; merely warm v\ater 
will dissolve the enamel and remove the dirt with it. The 
gloss is like a varnish to protect the linen. What brings 
the gloss so much in demand, however, is the beautiful 
appearance it l>estows ii])()n linen. l'>vcn to jnnslins 
it imparts a linen fini -h, ditficult to distinguish from the 
genuine linen. Tlic remark is often passed, that a 
gentleman may be ever so well dressed, yet his toilet is 
incomplete, without the neatly done up sliirt, cufi's, and 
collar. 

Nearly everyone has supposed tluit polishing was 
done by preparing the starch some ]iecnHar w a y 
or by putting some ingredient in it. This is not the 
case however. It is done entirely with the iron. Any 
starched article, calico and muslin, as well as linen, may 
be taken direct from the drawer already done up, and a 



17 

beautiful gloss given it simply by the use of the glossing 
iron. Shirts arc glossed on the sanje principal that boots 
are blacked. A boot is linst dampened with blacking, then 
the friction of the brush develops the polish ; after a 
shirt is ironed, it is slightly moistened with water, and 
the friction and heat of the glossing iron brings out the 
gloss. No nuitter from what substance, or in what man- 
ner the starch be prepared, provided only, the article 
contains starcli as a l)ody to work upon, a gloss may 
always be imparted. It is obvious, though, that an ar- 
ticle nicely starched and very stiff, will take a better 
gloss than a tlinjsy one. No two ladies, although they 
may use the same quality of starch and apparently pre- 
pare it in the same manner, will produce like results; 
the starch of the one will be pliable, iron smoothly, and 
have a proper stiffness ; while that of the other, will 
roll, stick to the iron, and be limpsy. In starch making, 
a great deal depends \ipon attention to the minutiaj and 
details. Below is given the laundry way of preparing 
starch, and the mode of applying it to the fabric. It is 
tlie most natural and simple way it can be prepared, 
and will doubtless appear very fiimiliar to many ladies, 
as just the way they have always done; luit we advise 
them to give careful attention to the minutiie and de- 
tails of this method, with the assurance that they will be 
agreeably suprised at the result. For glossing, articles 



18 
should be well washed, as the dirt is more apt to he 
visible than on a phiiii surface. 

The objection is often ofiered against polishing, that 
it wears and destroys the fabric. Such aji objection 
plainly shows that those who express it are entirely 
ignorant of the subject. As n() chemical is used to 
produce the gloss, how- can it possibly injure tlie fabric, 
any more than common ironing i The truth is, articles 
that arc always glossed will last much longer than 
when ironed in the usual way; for the obvious reason, 
they do not soil so easily, tind tlie dirt can be extracted 
without rubbing the article to pieces. 

7.-LAUNDRY METHOD OF PREPARING 
STARCH. 

THE proportions given may be varied to suit the 
number of articles to be starched. Take one 
ounce of good bought Starcli, and add just enough dear 
soft water to convert it into a thick paste. Knead it 
well between clean fingers, carefully breaking up every 
lump and particle. Ivub it perfectly smooth, so that it 
may be entirely free from lumps and of the same con- 
sistency throughout. When tin's has been done, add to 
the paste nearly or quite a pint of boiling water. It 
should then be boiled very thoroughly at least half an 



19 

hour, or even longer. It ^v^]l iron more smoothly, and 
the full stifiening properties of the starch are better 
obtained l)y long boiling. !Stir it frequently -while 
boiling, to keep it frojn burning, and add a few drops 
of Blueing to give it a clear cast. When not stirring, 
cover from the dust; cover, also, when removed from 
the tire, to prevent a scum from rising. It is not neces- 
Bary to put any ingredient in the starch, unless it be a 
small (piantity ot the purest Ilog's Lard. For the 
al)ove proportions of Starch and water, a lump of Lard 
about the size of a tliimble is sutllcicnt. The Lard 
prevents any rolling or sticking of Uie starch, and 
makes it iron smoothly. The starch should always be 
strained through muslin or a coarse towel. 



8.-APPLYING THE STARCH. 

N starching shirts, it is the liiundry custom to dry 
them previous to applying tlie starch. It is thought 
the shirts arc stitl'cr by this means. After drying, dip 
the bosom and cuffs into the starch while hot as the 
hand can bear; then spread the shirt out smoothly up- 
on a table or any hard surface, and, with the hands, 
work Ihe adhering starch thoroughly into l)oth sides of 
the linen, at the same time smoothing out the wrinkles. 
In this way the cloth will take up more of the starch, 



30 

and the more starcli the h'nen absorbs, of course, the 
stifFer it will be. By this after rubbing and smoothing 
out of the wrinkles, blistering also will be avoided. 

9-ST ARCHING COLLARS AND CUFFS, 

IN laundries, collars and cuffs are usually given a 
second starching. After starching and rubbing in 
the starch tlio same as for shirts,( 8.) they are made to dry 
quickly, and arc then in the same manner, given a sec- 
ond starching, and again allowed to dry. They are not 
sprinkle 1 in the usual way, but while dry, arc rolled up 
in a wet cloth or blanket, and allowed to remain until 
the moisture penetrates evenly through them. It is a 
kind of sweating process, like the cigar maker sweats 
leaf tobacco. Treated in this manner, they will iron 
smoothly, be exceedingly stiff, and can readily be given 
the enamel-like finish, that always distinguishes the 
work of a first class laundry. The advantages will more 
than compensate for the extra labor, as they will keep 
clean and stiff twice as long as indifferently done up 
collars and cuffs. It is unnecessary to give shirts a 
second starching, unless it be desired to have them par- 
ticularly stiff. 



21 

lO.-SELF- ADJUSTING SHIRT BOARD. 



THIS p;it('iit Sliirt Board aids a lady vastly iu do- 
ing up u iL-hirt neatly, and with ease. It fits a sliirt 
perfectly about the shoulders and necic, and stretch- 
es the wrinkles out of the plaits. Many shirts are ex- 
ceedingly ditiicult to iron without leaving bad wrinkles ; 
the inner lining having shrunk more than the outside 
linen, the edges of the shirt front will be badly wrinkled, 
in spite of every exertion. The Self-Adjusting Shirt 
Board, however, entirely overcomes this difTicultY. 
The damp shirt front, srretched over the board, looks al- 
most ironed ; the iron is merely passed over it to dry 
out the moisture. The convex neck piece, at the head 
of the board, causes the shirt band to stand out in prop- 
er shape, and thereby, the collar will have a better fit 
around the neck of the wearer. The shirt bosom can 
also be smoothed clear up to the band. By the use of 
this board, a lady can iron two shirts, while she is 
ironing one in the usual way, and is saved the worry of 
pulling and stretching out the wrinkles with the hands. 
The Self-Adjusting Shirt Board makes shirt ironing a 
pleasure. 



23 




THE SELF-ADJUSTING SHIRT BOARD. 



?3 

11 -HOW TO USE THE SHIRT BOARD. 

BUTTON or pin the shirt band in the back, before 
inserting tlie l)oard in the shirt. Raise tlie clamp 
at the lout of the board, and holding the shirt bosom tant, 
smooth out the body of the shirt underneath the clamp, 
and catch it in the corner recesses; now lower the 
damp, and the shirt bosom will be held even and in 
place, entirely free from wrinkles. Do not be afraid of 
tearing tlie shirt. Make the board stretch out every 
wrinkle. It cann(»t tear the shirt, as the strain is even 
over the whole front, far more so than when stretched 
with the hands. The agents always teach purchasers of 
Family Right, how to use the Shirt Board ; but the 
directions here given, will be found convenient for fu- 
ture I'eferenee. 

12.-CARE OF THE SHIRT BOARD. 

THE use of the Shirt Board for ironing, the pur- 
pose for which it was intended, Mill not soil the 
white covering. It is the laying around where dust 
can settle on it, that soils it. If laid away in a drawer im- 
mediately after using, the covering will keep clean for 
a long time. The muslin is cut to fit the board, and 
the edge is not a " ragged edge," but is neatly turned 



24 
under and fastened with light gimp tacks. When the 
covering becomes soiled, the tacks may be withdrawn 
with a case-knife, and the muslin washed and replaced, 
the same tacks being used. The softness and smootli- 
ness of the covered surface of the board admirably ad- 
apts it for shirt ironing. It is also very convenient for 
ironing collars, cuffs, ribbons or any small article. 



13.-THE COMBINED CORRUGATED 
GLOSSING AND MOLDING IRON. 

IN glossing starched articles, it is requisite that 
only a small surfjice of the glossing iron sliould come 
in contact with the faln'ic, and hence, in most laun- 
dries the fiivorlte is the''hecl-irou,"wliich issliaped some- 
wliat like an ordinary sad-iron with its licel rounded. 
To produce tlie gloss, after the articles arc ironed and 
sliglitly moistened, the point of the " heel-iron"' is eleva- 
ted, and the article rubbed with the oval part of the iron. 
To polish with that iron, two separate operations are re- 
fpiired ; one to smooth with the smooth surface of the 
iron, and the other to polish with the rounded heel; 
and to produce a thorough polish., numerous rapid mo- 
tions are rerpiired, with a hard ])ressure of the heel 
upon the starched article, while the point of the iron is 



25 

held in an elevated position, which proces-s is tircsoine 
and straining to the arm of the operator. Tlie (■orni- 
gated Glossing Iron, ibr which I'nited States Letters 
Patent were granted, Dec. 3rd, ISTb, is destined i() take 
the precedence of all other glossing irons. Jt is of 
recent invention, bnt in some of the leading laujidrii-^f, 
v.'here it has been introduced, it gives the highest satis- 
faction. Tlie face of the iron is corrugated, or in other 
words, is composed of alternate oval li(>cls or ridges, and 
oval grooves, running across the iron ])arallel to each 
other. The grooves are open at each end, tliereby entire- 
ly separating the ridges from each other. Tims each 
heel produces its own gloss, independently of the other. 



t4.-ADVANTAGES OF THE CORRU- 
GATED GLOSSING IRON. 



TS chief advantage is, the articles do not have to 
be ironed previous to its use, but it -will smooth 
and polish at the same time. A shirt front is finished in 
one operation, thus saving time. Again, it does not re- 
quire hard pressure, but can be used all day without 
tiring the operator. In using this iron, the entire cor- 
rugated face rests on the starclied fabric, avoiding the 
strain upon the arm, produced in holdingtlie pi>int or heel 



26 




The Combined Corrugated Ulo^^siu"' and Molding Iron. 



27 

of the iron in an elevated position, as required in using 
other polishing irons ; and each one of tlie numerous sur- 
faces of this iron, produces at each motion of tlio iron, :iii 
effect equal to the effect of tlie entire one-surface iron, 
and hence it is readily seen, that tliis iron will polish 
about as much by a single motion, as a ouosurface iron 
will polish by as many motions r.s thci-o nve S('i)arate 
polishing surfaces upon this iron, tlie sinoutliing and 
glossing being performed at tlie saine time and by the 
same part of the iron. The principle of glossing is the 
same as in the use of the " heel-iron ;" jjut the tiresome 
disadvantages of the latter, are entirely overcome. The 
iron is provided with a collar molder, composed of a 
double heel, the object of which is to twitt the collars 
and cuffs so as to give them a perfect lit. The iron* is 
also provided with a (torrugated or rounded point, to 
faciliate the polishing of the small surfaces around the 
collars and bands of shirts, and between the plaits, ac- 
cessible only to the point of the iron. The ends of the 
corrugations forming the longitudinal edges of the face 
of the iron, are rounded, to prevent catching, wearing, 
or cutting the goods. 

15.-H0W TO OPERATE THE CORRU- 
GATED GLOSSING IRON. 



AFTER, the shirt has been adjusted on the board, 
as in (11,) smooth it with the corrugated Gloss- 



28 

ing Iron just like an ordinary sad-iron wonld be used, and 
a iine gloss Avill be imparted to the shirt, with the expen- 
diture of no more time or trouble than when done np in 
tJie usual way. After the shirt is stretched (jv<'r tlie Ijoard 
it is an injprovement to rub the bosom, previous to us- 
ing the iron, witJi a clean white towel dampened with 
soft water. To gloss other starched articles, collars, 
cuiis, etc., spread them out smoothly on the ironing ta- 
ble, and after rubbing out the wrinkh s with the wet 
towel, iron them with the Glossing Iroii. Encu where 
articles are washed and ironed out of the hou.-e, tiiey 
may be glossed just as well after they are returneil. In 
that case, place the articles uj)on the hard suifaceof the 
board, slightly moisten them with soft water, and iron 
them over with the Glossing Iron, and the}^ will receive a 
line polish. If the article has been done up for months, it 
makes no diflference, for a gloss may always be im- 
parted. 

16.-EXTRA FINE GLOSS. 



IF an extra fine polish be desired, instead of using 
the wet toM-el mentioned above, rub the surface to 
be polished with a sponge dipped in a weak Gum- Ara- 
bic solution, prepared as in ( 2S,) and then the Corru- 
gated Iron will produce a superb finish. The article 



29 



should l)e only light ly q)oiiged. rurchasers of Family 
Ilio-ht will l»e shown by the agent, a practical use of the 
corrugated Glossing Iron. 

i7.-M0LDING COLLARS AND CUFFS. 



MOLDLXG or twisting collars and cufls, is the 
process of giving them a round shape, whereby 
the collar neatly fits the neck, and the cuff the wrist. A 
collar or cuff is never sent outi'roni a first-class laundry, 
without being thus molded. The operation is performed 
altogether with the heel of the iron, and the fit is much 
more perfect than when shaped with the hands. "When 
these articles are ironed out flat and afterwards shaped 
with the hands, wrinkles cannot be avoided. Molding 
a collar is easy to accomplish ; but to do it skillfully 
may re(|uire a little practice. The process, however, is 
nnich facilitated by the use of the curved double heel of 
the Corrugated Glossing Iron, the mode of using which 
is as follows : — Any lady, by a little practice, may be- 
come an expert in molding collars. 

18~H0W TO OPERATE THE COLLAR 
MOLDER. 

THE article is first ironed and glossed, then in us- 
ing the double heel, the collar or cufl' to be molded, 



30 

ed, is arranged with one end toward the operator, and the 
point of the iron in the same direction. The lower 
rounded surface of the heel is pressed M'itli one hand 
upon the farther end of the collar, for example; and as tJie 
iron is drawn toward the operator, the farther end of 
the collar is drawn bj the otiicr hand in the same di- 
rection, over the upper rounded surface of tlie heel, 
which process, with the aid of the heat of tlie iron, curls 
the collar into the required shape. Cuffs are molded 
in the same way ; and it is found that the sej.arate roun- 
ded surfaces or double heel, operate better in this mol- 
ding process, than one continuous curve or single heel. 
Collars that are very stiff, can thus be molded to as 
perfect a fit as could be desired. In the case of stand- 
ing collarrs, if the heel of the iron is pressed upon the 
tips of the collar by one hand, and then the iron dra\-. n 
toward the operator, and at tlie same time, the collar 
drawn in the same direction with the other hand, tin' 
tips or points of the collar may be rolled over; anl 
when worn, the points will curve out from the neck o.' 
the wearer, and look more artistic than when tunu-d 
over square. Turn down collars should be first folded 
over with the fingers, and then molded with the iron. 
Ladies collars and cuffs should always be molded, ao 
w^ell as those of gentlemen, for no collar or cuff looks 
or sets well, unless properly molded. 



19.-LAUNDRY STYLE OF FOLDING 
SHIRTS. 



THIS is a very neat way of folding shirts, and to 
some ladies may be of considerable interest. In 
this style of folding, the cuffs can never get wrinkled or 
creased; and it is also very convenient when shirts are 
packed for the jonrney, as they can thus folded, be 
laid away in a very small space. Lay the shirt with the 
bosom downward upon the table, and fold l)oth sides 
over the back, but instead of folding the sleeves parallel 
with the sides, as is usually done, lay them out trans- 
versely, at right angles to the front. Now bring the body 
of the shirt up over the sides. Take one sleeve and fold 
it directly back, sideways, over the body of the shirt, 
and turning, lay it down lengthwise with the front, fold- 
ing the cuft' over the base of the bosom. Serve the 
other sleeve and cuff in the same manner ; thus the 
cuffs lay over the base of the bosom, and cannot get wrin- 
kled. Place a pin through the back and sleeves, at the 
apex of the angle formed by the upper portions of the 
sleeves ; this will hold the folds even and in place. If each 
fold be compactly pressed down with a warm iron, a doz- 
en shirts folded in this style, maybe placed in a box of the 
length and width of the bosom, and only five inches in 



32 
height, and neither the bosom nor the cuffs can get 
wrinkled or creased. 



20.-CARE OF SAD-IRONS. 



MANY housekeepers are forever vexed with smut- 
ty and rusty sad-irons. Every time ironing day 
conies around, much time and patience is wasted in 
cleaning irons, before they are fit to use. The question 
occurs, wliy do ^ad-irons rust ? Look how they are usually 
left laying about in the damp and rain, or wherever it 
hai^pens. Treated in this way, any iron or steel instru- 
ment will corrode. A carpenter would be beside himself 
if his tools were thrown about in so careless a manner. 
How does he always keep them bright and polished '{ 
surely not by letting them care for themselves. He 
frequently oils them, and keeps them in a dry place. 
Tf ladies would only take a similar care of sad-irons, if 
they would oil them after using, and lay them away in a 
dry place, the surface of the irons would keep free from 
rust. The oil will not soil the clothes ; for after the iron is 
heated and rubbed with a dry cloth, no trace of the oil 
remains. Irons cared for in this manner, in addition to 
keeping free from rust, will iron much more smoothly. 



21-SCOURING SAD-IRONS. 

IN using sad-irons, purtionii of the starch arc liable 
to adhere to the iron, and the best way of cleaning 
them, is to scour them with Ihiburiit Brick. Procure 
some Unburnt Brick, ( the same as is used for scouring 
knives and forks,) powder it and s})read it out over brown 
paper, and then rub the iron over it. Sad-irons should 
never be heated on a stove where all kinds of cooking 
is in process, for the irons are almost sure to get smut- 
ted. Before setting on the irons, always clean and well 
brush tlie stove. It is a convenient j^slan to always have 
on the ironing table, a piece of jello.y Beeswax tied up 
in a coarse cloth. When tlic iron is almost hot enough 
to use, but not quite, rub it quickly with the Beeswax 
cloth, and tlien with a clean dry cloth. The Corrugated 
Glossing Iron, altlioagh polished and case-hardened, like 
steel, will rust and corrode if exposed to the damp ; 
but if oiled after using, and put in a dry place, it will 
never tarnish. Sawdust, Bran and Salt, arc all good 
for cleaning; irons. 

22.-SAD-IR0NS DEEPLY RUST-EATEN 



FREQUENTLY sad-irons become so badly rust-eaten, 
as to appear entirely ruined, but no iron was ever so 



34 

badlj scaled or incnisted with oxide, that it could not 
be cleaned by the following method : — Immerse the iron 
for a few minutes, in a solution of one part of concen- 
trated Sulphuric Acid, to ten parts of water. On with- 
drawing the iron, dip it in a bath of hotLinie water, and 
hold it there until it becomes so heated, that it will im- 
mediately dry on being taken out. Afterward, rub the 
iron with dry Bran or Sawdust, and it will be chemi- 
cally clean. Paradoxical as it may seem, strong Sul- 
phuric Acid will not attack iron, with anything of the 
energy of a solution of the same. In handling Concen- 
trated Sulphuric Acid, be careful not to let it come in 
contact with the hands or clothing. 



23-NON-CONDUCTING HOLDER. 

As AD-IKON holder that will not easily conduct heat 
will be found very convenient in the laundry. Such 
a holder may be prepared of several folds of cloth, with 
the inside lined with leather. The outside will be soft 
for the hands, and the leather will keep the holder much 
cooler than it Avould otherwise be. A holder of this 
description, made in leisure moments, will last for years, 
and saves the bother of hunting paper or rags at every 
ironing. It has been the aim, by scattering these sim- 
ple hints throughout the Chemical Laundry Guide, to 



impress the fact that it is a vast saving of time in the 
long run, to have everything connected with tlie laun- 
dry exact, handy and neat. Hy being a tritle precise, 
far better work will be done, and the drudgery of the 
laundry will l)e converted into a pleasure. The main 
secret of the perfection attained by large laundries, is the 
neatness, order and system which prevail throughout 
every department. 

24-TO PRESERVE CLOTHES PINS 
AND LINES. 

CLOTHES PINS are inexpensive articles, and their 
preservation may appear of little account, yet old 
clothes pins that have 1)een pro]ierly preserved, are much 
superior to new ones. They v.ill more firmly fasten the 
clothes upon the line; and the discouraging sight of 
the clothes lying in the dirt, which not unfrequently 
greets a lady after a tiresome washing, will be avoided. 
If every month or so, clothes pins are boiled a few min- 
utes, and then quickly dried, they become more flexible 
and durable. Clothes lines also will last longer and 
keep in better order, if occasionly treated in the same 
manner. 



CHAPTER II. 



25.-VARIOUS STARCHES AND 
THEIR USE. 



COMMERCIAL starch for laundry purposes, is usu- 
ally made from wheat or rice. Poland starch is con- 
sidered superior to the American or English. There are 
several kinds of domestic starch which may be made in 
various ways, and ofa variety of substances. They each 
have their peculiar merits and special uses. Starch for 
linen glossing has been fully treated in (7), and among 
the most important of home-made starches are the fol- 
lowing : — 

V' 26.-P0TAT0 STARCH. 



A 



KNOWLEDGE of making Potato Starch of a good 
quality is very important, for this starch has the 



87 

advantage that it can always l)e made at liome. Wash 
several good mealy Potatoes, grate them into a pan of 
flean water, and stir the mixture well. As soon as the 
thick part subsides to the bottom, pour off' all the white 
water into another vessel, keeping back all the pulj). 
Again add water to the pulp and pour off the whitened 
water as before, repeating this ])rocess as long as the 
water eoines oft' whitish. Let all the whitened water 
that has been ])oured oif remain nndistnrbed for some 
time, and the white part will settle to the bottom, leav- 
ing the water quite clear. This subsided matter is the 
starch. Pour off' the water and dry the starch in the 
sun. The starch will generally weigh about one-fifth 
of the Potatoes used, if tliey are of the best quality. 



""^ 27.-TO MAKE GOOD FLOUR STARCH. 



THE manner of making Flour Starch presented in 
this method is tlie quickest way it can be prepared;" 
the starch will be of excellent quality, and the method 
is much better than the old way of preparing Flour 
Starch by washing dough. Mix sifted Flour gradually 
M'ith cold water to free it from lumps, and then stir in 
cold water until the mixture will pour easily. Next 
stir it into a pot of boiling water, and let it boil five or 
Bix minutes, stirring it frequently. A little Lard will 



38 

make it iron smoother. Strain through muslin. This 
Starch answers very well for both cottons and linens. 

^ 28.-GUM-ARABIC STARCH. 

PROCURE two ounces of white Gum- Arabic, and 
reduce it to a powuor. Place tlie powder in a pitch- 
er, and pour over it Loili-iL;' s^uft water — a pint or more, 
according to the degree of strengtli desired. Let it 
remain over night to settle, and in the nioruing pour it 
from tlie dregs into a clean bottle, cork it, and save ibr 
use. Tliis starch is used for silks and muslins, and will 
impart to lawns a newness when nothing else can restore 
them after washing. It is also excellent for starching 
thin white nmslins and bol>1)incts, and makes«a delicate 
sizing for silk ribbon.- and. Irimniings. 

Gum-Arabic Starch mav he diluted \\ith water, 
when desirable to have a weak solution. 

29-STARCH FOR COLORED 
ARTICLES. 

DISSOL^rE and add to every pint of starcli, while 
boiling, a piece of Roche Alum the size of a thimble. 
By so doing, the colors Mill keep brighter for a longer 



39 



time, wliich is very desirable wliere dresses or other ar- 
ticles of lively colors are often washed, and the trouble 
is but trill in a:. 



-^ 30.-GLUE STARCH. 



GLUE Starch is much used for stiffening printed goods 
of various material. It makes an excellent sizing, 
and gives a finish as well as stiffness to the goods. 
Boil a piece of glue four inches square, in four quarts 
of water, and keep it in a bottle well corked. 



31.-ISINGLASS STARCH. 



DISSOLVE two ounces of Isinglass flakes in a quart 
of water, and bottle for use. Isinglass makes a del- 
icate sizing for silk ribbons and fine trimmings. It is 
the favorite sizing of the French laundress, and its ex- 
cellence is now familiar to the best milliners and dress- 
makers of this country. As a sizing for delicate articles, 
it cannot be excelled. 



40 



32.-WATER-PR00F STARCH. 

THIS is a patent French method emplo3-e(l in Paris.' 
It consists in passing tlie goods, after being properly 
starched, throiigli a bath of Chloride of Zinc, at a tem- 
peratui-e of about 0')'']'':ilir. After several successive 
washings the starclv will still remain in the fabric. 
This method is valuable in cases where starched ar- 
ticles are a great deal exposed to moisture. 



33.-NEW PROCESS OF RENDERING 
CLOTH WATER-PROOF. 

FABRICS may be rendered vrater-proof by thiB 
method, without destroying their ventilating quali- 
ties. Place in a metal vessel of about six gallons ca- 
pacity, twenty ])Ounds of Sulphate of Alumina cut in 
thin slices, and in anothc;!" similar receptacle, three 
pounds of Oleic Acid aiid six (ju;irts of Alcohol. 
Thoroughly dissolve tlie lailer compound, and stir ]t 
with a wooden stick for twenty minutes, gradually ad- 
ding the Sulphate of Alumina. Leave the whole about 
twenty-four hours to settle; the Oleic Acid and the 
Alcohol will then bo at the sTirface, and can be de- 



41 

canted. Filter the remaining (le})osit tlir(»ui.':li llannel, 
and press it into a cake. This cake caji he dried hy 
lieat and then powdered. One and a halt" pounds of 
the powder to twenty gahous of water, will he an ample 
proportion for applying to silken or linen clothes, and 
wool will not require more than one pound. It is well 
to strain the solution. The articles re(juire only to he 
thoroughly saturated with this solution and dried in 
the air. This method has been awarded a patent. 



34-CONGREE STARCH FOR MUSLINS. 



SOAP may he disused in the getting up of fine mus- 
lins, hy treating tliem agreeably to the Oriental 
custom, which consists in washing them in plain water, 
and then boiling them in Congree or rice water. After 
which, they ought not to be submitted to theoperation of 
the smootliing iron,l)ut should be rubbed smooth with 
a.glass bottle containing liot water (2P>1.) The water 
in which Ilice is boiled without being tied up in a bag, 
is as good as Poland starch, for clear starching muslins. 
After it is ])oured olf from the rice, tlu^ water should 
be boiled till it evaporates to a thick consistency, and 
then strained. 



42 

35--TO STARCH MUSLINS AND 
PIQUES 

IN launJrying tine muslins :anJ )»i>jnf':-, the failure is 
quite as often in tlu^ ft arching as in the washing. 
A good sized pailful of stain-h should be used, in which 
three or four inches of Stearin Candle has b€>en melted 
while the starch is hot. The starch should be thorougli- 
ly s(jucc/.c 1 from the goods, and the articles folded 
whilst damp, between folds of old sheeting or table- 
linen. It is a good plan to pass them throug^i the 
wringing machine, as ;dl lumps of starch will be thus re- 
moved, riijues should be ironed as lightv as possible, 
and the iron ought never to come in contact ^\'itll the 
outside surface When absolutely necessary to iron them 
on the right side, an old cambric handkerchief is the 
best to |)la(e between the iron and the material Mus- 
lins look very well v/hen starched and clapped dry while 
the starch is hut ; then fold in a damp (doth, until they 
become quite damp, belbre ironing them, tor if nnislins 
are sprinkled in the usual way, they are cpiite liable to 
be spotted. 

36-TO THICKEN AND STRENGTHEN 
MUSLIN. 



D 



IP the muslin in dilute Sulphuric Acid, which will 
strengthen it very much, and increase its thickness. 



43 

This is llie process employed in the I'actoiies of Man- 
chester, Enghmd. The cotton thus prepurcd, is techni- 
cally termed "Ijlanhet/' The Acid should In; (piite 
dilute, and the article should Ite immersed only lor :i 
few minutes, and then rinsed w ell in clear water. 

37.-YELL0W LINEN. 

LINEN that has acquired a yellow or bad color by 
careless washing, may be restored to a brilliant, 
whiteness, if treated according to this method. The 
process is called in laundries, "The Bleach.'" It is es- 
pecially nsed for shirts, collars and cuHs, ;ind its object 
is to give them that clear white appearance these ar- 
ticles always possess when done up at a lirst-class laun- 
dry. After the dirt is extracted and the clothes are 
boiled, they are then }*ut into the " Bleach," which is 
prepared and nsed as ibllows : — 

38.-THE LAUNDRY "BLEACH." 

TAKE a quarter of a pound of Chloride of Lime, and 
mix it with sufficient cold water to form a paste. 
Work the paste entirely free from lumps, put it into a 
vessel, and add two gallons of boiling water. Allow it 



44 

to settle, and decant the clear liquid, which is the bleach- 
ino- llaid. Iniinerse the article in the hquid for five or 
six minutes, and then without wringing, put them into 
water scalding hot, and let them remain about fifteen 
minutes; this is done to neutralize the eliect of the 
Chloride of Lime upon tlie linen. If this precaution is 
not talcen, the texture of the goods will be injured. 
Never attempt to bleach unwashed linen; and avoid 
using the liquor too strong, for tlie action of t!ie" Uleach " 
u very ])0werful, and if the linen is left in too long, it 
v.'ill be rendered rotton. Great care must be taken. 
Notwithstanding the powerful aetion of the " Bleacli," 
experience has given iilMindant ]troof that it \\'\\\ not 
injure tlie goods in the least, if properly used. This 
process is in use in nearly every laundry establiehment, 
and is regarded as indispensable in giving clothes a 
clear, brilliant whiteness. The " Bleach" will also re- 
move almost any kind of stain, except iron mould. 



39.--T0 BLEACH BROWN SHEETING. 

FmST soak the clothes for twelve hours in strong 
soap F.u Js. For every twelve yards of sheet ing, take 
a quarter of a pound of Chloride of Lime and dissolve 
it in enough boiling water, so that when immersed in 
the liquid, the cloth may be entirely covered. As spon 



45 

as soon as the Lime is dissolved, strain the sohition 
through a coarse clolh; then put the brown sheeting 
in the strained Lime water, stirring it continually, and 
after it has remained thus in the liquid for half an hour, 
take out the cloth and rinse it well in boiling water, to re- 
move all the Lime water. Then boil it up in strong 
soap-suds, and hang out to dry. The work of weeks 
of grass bleaching will thus be accomplished in a day. 



40.-GERMAN METHOD OF BLEACHING 
WHITE GOODS. 

THIS method consists in employing Oil of Turpen- 
tine as a bleaching agent. It is a favorite and 
extensively used method throughout Germany; ;md 
before American manufacturers learned the proi>er way 
of bleaching, they were conipelled to send certain kinds 
of goods to Germany, to be bleached. The Gorman 
method possesses a great advantage over other methods, 
for there is no danger of the goods being injured. Dis- 
solve one part Oil of Turpentine in three parts strong 
Alcohol. Place a teacupful of this mixture in the 
water used for the last rinsing; the clothes are to be 
rinsed in this, well wrung out, and hung in the open air 
to drv. The bleachinir action of the Oil consists in its 



40 

changing Oxygen into Ozone when exposed to the 
light, aiui in the process of drjing, tlie Turpentine dis- 
appears, leaving no trace hehiud. 

41.-T0 STARCH AND IRON WHITE 
VESTS. 

PEEPARE the starch for line white vests, the same 
as for shirts ( 7.) After dipping the vest in the 
hot starch, lay it on a clean hard surface, and with the 
liands work the adhering starch well into the vest, at the 
same time drawing it into proper shape, and smoothing 
out the wrinkles. Let it dry in tliis shape, and instead 
of sprinkling, place it without rolling up,-betwecn damp 
sheets. When damp enough to iron, Hrst pull the vest 
into its proprn- shape, and smooth out the wrinkles with 
a damp clotli; then having underneath the vest a very 
soft ironing surface, do not apply the iron directly on 
the vest, but place over it a damp cloth, and press the 
clolh till quite dry. In this vray the twills and llowers 
will be brought out clear and distinct as they are vrhen 
new, and the vest will have a proper shape. 

42.~RAISED EMBROIDERY AND 
FLOWERED COLLARS. 

THE surface on which any kind of embroidered work 
is ironed should be very soft — composed of a num- 



47 
ber of folds of liannel. fStretcli out the article smoollilj 
and laj it on this soft t^urface Avith the right side down- 
ward, and then press heavily with the iron on the wrong 
side. The sott tlannel allows the raised portions to sink 
down, and the flowers and embroidery will not be all 
pressed together, but will have a clear outline. Tsew 
linen may be embroidered more easily by rubbing it 
over with fine white soap, which will prevent the thread 
from cracking. 



43.~D0ING UP LACE CURTAINS. 

DOUBLE the curtain lengthwise, and tack the ends 
together with a needle and thread, this being 
done so that the curtain may easily handled in the 
water. Prepare a strong lather of white soap and 
water, and add one ounce of Aqua Anmiouia. Soap 
should never be rubbed on the curtain, nor should the 
material itself be rul)1)ed ; sluicing it up and down in the 
suds will answer quite as well, and does not tear it to 
pieces. Continue to wash the curtain through succes- 
sive lathers, until the last one does not appear dirty. 
Rinse through several waters Avith a little Blueing or 
Rose Pink ( 63 ) in the last. They may be starched to 
any degree of stiffness that may suit the taste. Many 
ladies attempt to iron lace curtains ; but this is folly. 



48 
They shouM always lie strctclieil tight and tlms al- 
lowed to dry. Either stretcli tlieiii tipjlitly over (juilting 
frames, or, having taeked a clean white slieet over the 
tioor of an occupied room, stretch the curtain tightly 
over it, and fasten with pins. This is the only correct 
wav of doing up lace curtains. 



44.-LADIES' LINEN SUITS. 

LINENS properly laundried are elegant sununer 
costumes; but to most, ladies, the art of preserving 
the new appearance of linen suits is very iH'rplcxing. 
Many ladies try to be so careful, that they may wear 
tliem the wdiole season without soiling them, tor they 
arc well aware that, when once washed, the color and 
lustre disappears. The suits most in vogue arc of a hay, 
straw or amber color. They are made on machijics by 
factory girls, and are then sent to the laundries to be 
given the color and finish. The methods cniployed 
are easy to follow; the lustre and almost any cohu* de- 
sired may l)e readily given them. For example, if a 
hay color be desired, take some Hay and steep it just as 
tea is stec})cd ; ;md after the suit is cashed and rinsed, 
it is immersed in this Hay tea. Avhich will give the liay 
color. The lustre is imparted while the linen is being 
iro4ied, I'reparc a sizing as follows: — Dissolve bought 



49 

starch in cold water, using just enough water to convert 
it, by rubbing between the fingers, into a paste entirely 
free from lumps ; then add soap water to this creamy 
starch or paste, until the mixture is quite thin. Do not 
add soap-suds, but a soap solution, prepared by simply 
dissolving white soap in hot water. Then, while ironing, 
lightly dampen a portion of the suit with this sizing, 
and innnediately iron dry the moistened portion. Con- 
tinue thus until the whole suit is ironed, and the result 
will be a fine glossy finish. If a straw color be desired, 
steep Straw into a tea ; if an amber color, obtain some 
Amber and prepare an Amber tea or solution. Almost 
any color that may suit the taste may be imparted by 
steeping a tea of some substance of similar color, and 
dressing the suit with it. The lusti-e is always added 
by using tlu^ sonp and starch sizing, as above. 



45.-lR0NiNG AND FOLDING TABLE 
LINENS. 

IN ironing table linens, there is quite a hnaclc in fold- 
ing them so that they may be convenientl}' spread 
over the table, and the creases caused by the folds may 
not be visible. The snowy table cloth looks much 
neater, if it presents a smooth even surface. The crea- 
ses so often seen in the table cloth, which is otherwise 



50 

faultlessly done up, are too suggestive of the heat of 
the laundry. By observing the accompanying direc- 
tions for ironing and folding table linens, a pleasing result 
will follow. Only one sidt% ut'cour.-e, need be smoothed. 
First ibid the table cloth the long way, with the right 
side in, then bring both the outer edges even with the 
middle crease, thus exposing ibr smoothing half of the 
right side, a fourth above and a fourth underneath. Xow 
smooth ail ol" the right side Vv hii-h is exposed aliove and 
underneath. Next bring over Ijoth of these new creases 
even with the middh; crease, therein' exposiiig to the 
iron another poi'tion of the i-ight side above and under- 
neatli. Iron these j)t)rtions. Tlie middle crease is novr 
reversed, which brings the last termed creases even with 
ea('h other, and the remaining unii-oned portion of the 
riu'ht side abov(^ and underneatli will be exposed for 
ironin"'. All ol' tlie riglit side Is now ironed, and the 
table cloth is in eight folds, length wi^e. Finish by fold- 
ing it crosswise, and bringing the outer edges even with 
the middle crease. The table cloth will mnv be smoothed 
and folded in a very convenient form, ibr spreading 
over the table ; and when spread out, the creases will 
disaj)pear. This is also a good way of folding napkins 
and handkerchiefs. 



CHAPTER III. 



46~WASHING. 



THROUGHOUT the world, wherever man dwells, 
water is used for cleansing purposes. Previous 
to its use, however, it may itself require to be cleansed. 
The impurities of water are of two kinds. Earthy 
matter, clay, sand, lime, &c., mechanically suspended in 
it, which mak(!S it appear cloudy and turbid. Then, 
again, dissolved substances, which contaminate and 
render the water hard, although it may appear clear 
and pure. 

In order to have clothes clear and soft after washing, 
it is highly imperative that the water used should itself 
be free from all impurities. The surest way to clarify 
turbid water is by filtration. The principles of filtra- 
tion are very simple, and are universally understood. 
Any box or cask will answer, and Charcoal is the usual 
material throucrh which to filter the water. The foul- 



53 

est ditch water, made to pass throngli Charcoal, comes 
out clear, brisrht and sweet. 



47.-SP0NGY IRON FOR FILTERING 
WATER. 

IT is confidently stated \)y cliemists that the best filter 
fi)r impure water is Spongy Iron. Bacteria and 
germs are not kilk-d Ijy IjeinL?: passed through Charcoal, 
but are destroyed by filtering through Spongy Iron. 
The organic matter is destroyed by the oxygen liber- 
ated by the iron from the water, and the ferrous hydrate 
resulting fruin the solution by organic matter is re- 
oxidized by the oxygen dissolved in the water, so that 
the process of purification is a continous one, and the 
Spongy Iron is not destroyed by the operation. 

48-POPULAR METHODS OF CLEARING 
V/ATER. 



M^^ 



steamboats on the Oliio and Mississippi 
ers clear the dirty riv(^r watei- l)y adding 
ground Mustard to it and allowing it to settle. In 
England and France, as well as in America, a popular 



53 

method of clearing muddy water is to add a few grains 
of powdered Alum to it. Two or three grains are 
usually sufficient for a (uiart of water. TJiis will ef- 
fectually clear the water, but at the same time it aug- 
ment's the hardness of the water by altering its chemi- 
cal composition. By far tlie superior way is by the 
following method : 



y 49.-EGG AND VINEGAR METHOD. 

BEAT an Egg and three tablespoon fuls of Yincgar to- 
gether. Stir this mixture into a tubful of the 
muddy water, and let it remain undisturbed until the 
impurities of the water, together with the Egg mix- 
ture, settle to the bottom in a 3'ello\\ ish and very dirty 
sediment. Decant the water from this sediment, and 
it will be as ckar and pure ?s spring water. This is a 
Eimple and very valuable method. 

50.-HARD WATER. 

WATER that is hard and unfit for cleansing purposes, 
on account of the dissolved impurities it may con- 
tain, will be now considered. Many people use Pearl- 
ash, or Potash to soften hard water, but these ingredi- 



54 

eDts are apt to injure the cloth. The method given 
below cannot be too highly recommended. Water soft- 
ened by tliis process cannot injure the finest goods nor 
the most delicate of colors, and it will render tlie 
clothes clearer and softer than when washed in rain 
water. It is also very nice for washing the skin, or for 
any cleansing purpose whatever. It is a costless and 
easy method. Water thus softened is usually termed 
" Broke-Water." 



51~METH0D OF PREPARING *' BROKE- 
WATER." 

FILL a tub or barrel half tuU of wood ashes. Hick- 
ory ashes are tlie best, hut any wood ashes will 
answer, and sometimes even coal ashes are used. Sift 
the ashes through a fine sieve, to separate any black 
coals they may contain, as these will give the " Broke- 
Water," or lye, a blackish hue. Next fill up tjie tub 
with water, and allow it to stand over night. If hot 
water be used, half an hour will answer. From half a 
gallon to a gallon of this " Broke-Water," i>ut into a 
boiler of hot but not boiling water, will cause 
the impurities of the water to rise to the surfare in a 
milky skum, which may be easily skimmed off, and the 
■water underneath will be as clear as the purest spring 



55 

water. When tlie liquiil is all iiscfl, more water can 
be poured on the same ashe:^, and thus tlie " Eroke- 
Water"' may he prepared whenever it is wanted. 
f]very family that has been accustomed to use hard 
water should try this method. 



52.~-WASHING CRYSTAL 

MANY people have a strong prejudice against the 
use of any preparation except soap to aid in 
taking the dirt out of clothes. They say it eats the 
cloth and tnrns it yellow. In the case of many of the 
so-called washing crystals in market, this prejudice is 
just; yet chemistry would bo but a meagre science if it 
could not give a preparation which would be successful 
in extracting dirt from linen and cotton, ;md combine 
it in such proportions that it would be entirely harm- 
less. In laundry establishments, washing fluids are 
universally used, resulting in a great saving of labor 
and time, and proving far less destructive to M'earing 
apparel than the old mode of washing. Surely, any 
method wdiicli saves labor and time, and accomplishes 
better results than the old plan, ought to be introduced 
into the family. Look at the advantages : No rubbing 
the skin off the hands, nor tearing the clothes to pieces ; 
a large washing finished before breakfast, the clothes 



56 

out to dry, the house in good order, all comfortable 
again for the day, and the family saved from washing 
day annoyances. Surely, no lamily can forego such 
comforts. 

Another great advantage in the use of washing com- 
pounds, which should not be overlooked, is the small 
amount of soap that will be I'equired for a washing. A 
good washing crystal will do away with more than one- 
half the soap that without it would be necessary. The 
quantity of soap saved every ye;ir by this means is an 
item of no small importance. 

Several plans of washing that are in use in large 
laundries, and a few formulae for preparing the best 
washing crystals, are presented. All of them are val- 
uable methods, and none will injure the goods 
in the least. A lady may select whichever one is most 
convenient. 

53~PR0F. TWELVETREE'S METHOD, 

THE plan of washing largely in use in England is 
called "The Pvecipc of Prof. Twelvetree." It 
has an advantage in the use of the lime, which possesses 
strong bleaching properties, and will render the clothes 
beautifully white. By this method the finest laces, 
linens, cambrics, &c., can be readily cleansed, with lit- 
tle trouble. 



57 

On tlie night previous to washing, select from the 
clothes to be washed all the coarse and dirty pieces, sep- 
arating them from the fine. Then soak both lots over 
night, in separate tubs of soft water. Next, the liquid 
for a large washing is prepared as follows : Put in an- 
other tub half a pound of good brown Soap, finely 
sliced, half a pound of Soda and three ounces of fresh, 
unslaked Lime. Mix them all together, and add one 
gallon of boiling soft water. Stir the mixture well 
to thoroughly incorporate the ingredients, and let 
it stand till morning. Then strain oft' the clear liquid, 
but be careful to leave all sediment behind. Having 
ready in the boiler about ten gallons of boiling soft 
water, pour in the prepared liquid, keeping back all 
settlings that may yet remain in it. Then throw in the 
clothes and boil them about twenty minutes or half an 
hour. It is a good plan to put an earthen plate in the 
bottom of the boiler to prevent tJie clothes from burn- 
ing. After boiling tlie clothes the allotted time, take 
them out, scald them, blue them, and rinse them in 
clear soft water, and they will then be as clear and 
white as snow. If the washing be small, and less than 
ten gallons of water be required in which to boil the 
clothes, less in proportion of the liquid of Lime, Soap 
and Soda should l)e used. In the country, where it is 
difficult to procure fresh Lime, a large quantity of the 
liquid can be prepared at one time. Preserved in hot- 



58 



ties, tightly corked, it will keep for years, always ready 
for use. 



54.-AN EXCELLENT DETERGENT 
FLUID. 



THE following washing fluid has proven very suc- 
cessful : Take two and a half pounds of Salsoda, 
half a ])oiind of norax, quarter of a pound of un- 
slaked Lime, two ounces of Salts of Tartar, and one 
and a half ounce of Li(piid Anunonia. Dissolve the 
Soda and I'orax in half a gallon of hot water. Let it 
settle, and when clear pour it off carefully. Then add 
the other ingredients, and turn upon the whole four 
gallons of cold water. The fluid is now ready for use, 
and should be kept in a cask or jug. The night before 
washing, take six tablespoonfuls to a tubful of clothes, 
mixing it with four ]>ailfuls of warm water. Soak the 
clothes over night. IN'ext morning add hot water 
enough to wasli them with good soap-suds. Then boil 
tlie clothes. Another tubful of clothes may be washed 
in the saine water used for the first boiler. One trial 
of this fluid will show its good effects. The recipe has 
been sold at a high price, and a great deal of money 
has been made out of the manufacture of thib fluid. 



59 



55 -BORAX WASHING CRYSTAL 

THE washerwomen of Holland and Belgium, so 
provcvl'iallj clean, and who get their linen so 
beautifully white, use Borax instead of Soda for a 
washing crj'stal. Many laundries have adopted this 
method. It is used in the proportion of half a pound 
of Borax powder to ten gallons of water. This method 
will save the Soap nearly one-half For laces, cam- 
brics, &c., an extra (piantity of Borax is used. For 
crinolines, requiring to be very stiff, a still stronger so- 
lution is necessary. Borax is a neutral salt, and will 
not injure the finest fabric. It is also good to soften 
hard water, and is excellent for the toilet. 



56.-FRENCH WASHING COMPOUND. 

THIS compound is used by French laundresses, and 
is now largely cmj^loyed by laundries in this 
country. It will be found very effectual, and entirely 
harmless. Dissolve one pound of hard Soap in six gal- 
lons of water, then add a quarter of an ounce of Spirits 
of Turpentine and half an ounce of Spirits of Harts- 
horn. The above (piantity is sufficient for a medium- 
sized washing. 



ee 



57.--JAVELLE WATER. 

IT is very convenient to always have on hand in the 
family the cclebratod Javellc Water, small (jiianti- 
ties of which will render the most soiled garmentb per- 
fectly white. It should be used only in small quanti- 
ties. It is prepared by taking four pound:-; of Salsoda 
to one }>ound ol" C^hloride of Lime and one gallon of 
water. Tut the Salsoda into a vessel placed over the 
tire, and add a gallon of boiling water. Let it boil 
about fifteen minutes. Next, make the Chloride of 
Lime free from lumps and add it to tlie Soda, solution. 
When cool, pour tlie solution into a l;;r:^c jug or bot- 
tle, cork tightly, and it will keep, always ready for use. 
The materials are cheap, and the mixture easily made. 



58.-VEGETABLE COLORS. 



IT is hardly necessary to remind ladies that none of 
these washing or bleaching })reparations should be 
used in doing up colored articles. .Mthough they do 
not injure the fabric, they are apt to bleach out and 
destroy vegetable colors. jSTeither should they l»o used 
with woolens and flannels, as they will render such 



61 

materials liarsli. For white goods only can they be 
profitably employed. 

59.-ASS0RTING CLOTHES. 

IN large washes, much labor and soap can l^e saved 
by assorting the clothes and soaking them over 
night, previous to washing them. In assorting the 
wash, put the flannels in one lot, the colored goods in 
another, the coarse white clothes in nnothcr, and the 
fine white arti(;les in a fourth. Wash the fine white 
clothes first, the coarse white articles in the same 
water, and then wash the colored goods. The skilful 
treatment of flannels and colored articles will be fully 
given in chapters appropriated to them. 

It is a good plan to save the suds, after washing, to 
water the garden, or to harden sandy yards or cellars. 



GO-BLUEING, 

AGEEAT deal of vexation is experienced by house- 
wives in the use of blueing. Many blues settle 
on the clothes in spots and render them streaked. The 
object of blueing clothes is to clear them and give them 
a bright look. Articles properly blued will look as 



63 

fresh and bright as when llioy were new. The chief 
requisite of a good hhieing is the ability to diffuse it- 
r^elf tliroughout the rinse water, and to always remain 
in solutiun, tlie whole water being thoroughly blued, 
and no particle of tlie blue remaining undissolved to 
settle on the clothes. Aniline Blue possesses this prop- 
erty, and is the blue usually preferred by laundries. It 
is considered superior to others. 



61.-ANILINE BLUE. 

TAKE two ounces of Aniline Blue to half a gallon 
of clear vrater. Tepid water is the best. Let the 
Blue dissolve thoroughly, and put the solution away in 
bottles. The above quantity will last for some time. 
Use in tlie rinse water from a tcaspoonful to a table 
spoonful, according to the size of the washing. The 
proper quantity to be used can be readily determined 
by the appearanc^e of the water. (.Mothes do not re- 
quire so very much blueing, nor yet too little. They 
may have a decidedly blue appearance while wet, but- 
in the process of ironing and drying the excess of blue 
disappears, and a brilliant white remains. Nothing 
can excel the }iure Aniline Dye for blueing clothes, and 
such is its strength tliat It is the clieapest that can be 
used. 



63 



62.-CHINESE SOLUBLE BLUE. 

CHINESE Soluble Blue also makes an elegant blue- 
ing for laundry use. It is prepared and used in 
the same manner, and in the same ])roj)ortions, a;? the 
Aniline Blue (f!lj. It is a blue powder exceedingly 
soluble, and, when once dissolved in water, it Ibrnis a 
clear, permanent blue liquid, entirely free from sedi- 
ment. It is not even necessary to shake it before 
using. 

63.-R0SE PINK. . 

THE French laundress very frequently employs 
Eose Pink instead of blueing to (dear delicate ar- 
ticles. It is considered much supei'ior to bhu^ing for 
line nnislins, laces, and various silk goods, as it will 
impart to delicate articles a very ])right and beautiful 
a])pearancc. Rose Pink may be procured of tiie 
chemist, and is used in the same M'ay ;is the Indigo 
Blue. Tie up a small quantity in a piece of llaiind, 
and squeeze drops of the Pink into the water until it 
is colored a pale ])ink. We would recommend ladies to 
try Kose Pink whenever they may have occasion for 
doing up delicate white articles. 



IT •'-^va<?> 



CHAPTER IV. 

64~S0AP OF DOMESTIC MANUFAC- 
TURE. 

^T^IIE quantity of Soap consumed Ly a nation 
J_ would 1)0 no inaccurate measure whereby to es- 
timate its wealth and civilization." This remark of 
Leibig, uttered centuries ago, is as true to-day. Soap 
is indispensable to every human being. The manufac- 
tui'e of Soap is stri/tly scientific, and a complete treatise 
would fill \(>lmiies. Tliis work will give only a 
few nietliods for the domestic manufacture of Soap, 
whereby ;ai excellent quality of soft, hard and toilet 
Soa])S, can be easily made, with economy, at home. 
To those hidi(,'S who delight to experiment and improve 
upon old methods, this chapter Is especially devoted. 



S 



65.-S0FT SOAPS. 

OAP is a chemical combination of some fatty sub- 
stance with Caustic Lye. Soft soap differs from hard 



65 

soap in having Potash as its alkaline base, instead of Soda. 
It is more or less pasty and gelatinous. Manufacturers 
of commercial soft soap obtain Lye from Potasli, but 
in domestic manufacture it is usually supplied by 
Ashes. To make good soaj), it is essential at the out- 
set to understand how to make good Lye. In the fol- 
lowing method a few hints are given which may be of 
service : 

66.-T0 MAKE GOOD LYE. 

WHEN it is not desirable to use Potash, hickory 
Ashes are the best for making Lye, but those 
made from sound beech, maple, or almost any kind of 
hard wood, will answer. A common barrel set upon 
an inclined platform makes a very good leach. A bet- 
ter way is to make a box or trough in a Y shape, hav- 
ing its sides terminating in a point, and provided with 
an orifice at the lower end. The box should be pro- 
vided with legs, and mounted high enough to allow of 
a vessel being placed underneath to receive the Lye 
which runs out of the bottom. This style of leach is 
much preferable ; for the strength of the Ashes is bet- 
ter obtained, and the box may bo taken apart and laid 
away when not in use. First put in the bottom of the 
leach a few sticks, and spread over them a piece of car- 
pet or woolen cloth, which is better tlian straw. After 



60 

a lew indies of Ashes have been put in, add from four 
to eight qnarts of Lime. As jou fill up with Ashes, 
moisten and tamp them down well. Tamp the firmest 
in the centre. It is ditRcult to obtain the full strength 
of Ashes in a barrel withont removing them after a 
few days' leaching, v/hen they should bo well mixed 
up and replaced. First, throw off the top, and add 
new Ashes to make nj) the proper cpiantity. It is best 
to use boiling water for the second leaiching. The L3'e 
nmst be concentrated by boiling till sufficiently strong 
to float an egg or sound potato. 



67.-TO PRESERVE GREASE. 

THE proper care and treatjucnl o.' IIk- fat or grease 
is very iniportant, and the vxtwi attention given 
to this matter will l)e well repaid by tlic superior qual- 
ity of soap that will result from tiic pui'ified grease. 
Boil all the scraps, rinds and bones in a weak lye, and 
tlie purer grease in clear water. After the mixture 
cools, take off the cake of grease and strain, it. Tt is 
well to thus occasionally treat the fat as it is saved ; 
ibr, when kept a long time impure grease liecomes of- 
fensive. Before consigning it to the grease-tub, care 
must be taken to dry off all the water, so that the grease 
will keep sweet. The best way to collect dripping is 



to put tlie grease while warm into water that is nearly 
cold. Any impurities it maj rontuin will pink to the 
bottom. 

68.--T0 PREVENT FATTY SUBSTANCES 
FROM TURNING RANCID. 

BOIL, for ten minutes, about eight pounds of the 
fat with three pounds of water, containing half an 
ounce of common Salt and a quarter of an ounce of 
powdered Alum. Strain off the water, and then gently 
simmer the clarified fat with half an ounce of Benzoin 
and a pint of Rose Water. Skim off the grease and 
let it cool. Fat thus treated will keep sweet for years. 

69.-T0 MAKE SOFT SOAP BY EM- 
PLOYING POTASH. 

FOR a barrel of soap, take twelve pounds of Potash 
to fourteen pounds of grease. Dissolve the Pot- 
ash over night in two pailfuls of hot soft water. In 
the morning, ponr it while hot over the grease, which 
must have been previously rendered down and put in 
the barrel. Put more water on the Potash that re- 
mains undissolved, and, when hot, add it to the grease as 



68 

before, and so continue until all tlie Potash has been 
dissolved. Fill up the barrel more slowly with cold 
water, finishing it the next day. It should be stirred 
very frequently through tlie day, and for several suc- 
cessive da3^s. Before using, allow it to rest for three 
months in a cool cellar. This method furnishes a very 
good quality of soft soap. 

70.-TO MAKE LYE SOFT SOAP. 

TAKE about four gallons of Lye obtained by 
Method (66) to twelve pounds of clear grease. Boil 
the grease and lye thoroughly together. Then add 
more lye as it is obtained, keeping up a slow fire and 
often stirring, until a barrel of soap is forrijod. Al'ter 
boiling together the twelve })ounds ot grease and four 
gallons, of l}'e, tlie mixture may tlien be [nit in the 
barrel and the rest of tlie lye added tln^i-c. By this 
cold proeet^s good S(»ap will be ibrnied, il' fre([uently 
stirred. The heating process, however, is tiie best, if 
the weather be clear and there \>c ])]enty of time. 

71.-C0MCENTRATED LYE. 



AMTLD, salvy, soft soap, of excellent quality, and 
one that will be ready for use in a few days, can 



69 

be qiiicklj made as follows: A prepared Concentrated 
Lye, put up in pound boxes, may be purchased of any 
druggist or grocer, at small cost. In some iron vessel, 
dissolve a pound of tliis Lye in two quarts of soft 
water, and add four pounds of grease, scraps or rinds. 
Boil the mixture thoroughly until every bit of fat dis- 
appears. The longer the boiling is continued, the bet- 
ter will be the soap. Then put it in a barrel and add 
soft water, well boiled and scalding hot, until the soap 
is as strong as desired. Special directions usually ac- 
company the boxes of Concentrated Lye. 



72.-LABOR-SAVING SOAP. 

AN excellent Soft soap may be made from the wash- 
ing crystal of Method' (54). Take one quart 
of the fluid, slice into it three pounds of common yel- 
low soap, and add two pounds of Salsoda. Boil the 
mixture in three gallons of soft water, then strain it, 
and it will be immediately fit for use. Four gallons of 
soft soap will thus be made, wdiich will prove une- 
qualed for all jmrj^oses wherein soft soap is needed. 
The night previous to washing, put the clothes to soak; 
and to every pailful of water in which they are boiled 
add a pound of this soap. They will need no rubbing ; 
merely riiiae them, and they will be perfectly clean and 



70 



white. This soap may be riglitly styled Labor-Saving 
Soap. 

73.-TURPENTINE SOAP. 

SLICE up three pounds of brown soap, and melt it 
in seven quarts of water. Then put it in a stone 
pot, and add nine tablespoon fuls of Spirits of Turpen- 
tine and six of Alcohol. In using Turpentine soap, 
make very liot suds with some of the soap, and soak 
the clothes in it for half an hour. Then wash them 
out and rinse as usual. This soap is particularly valu- 
able for blankets and quilts, as it thoroughly removes 
the dirt with very little rubbing. 



74.-T0 CONVERT SOFT SOAP INTO 
■ HARD SOAR 

PUT four pailfuls of soft soap into a kettle, and, 
while boiling, stir into it by degrees about a quart 
of common Salt. Boil until all the water evaporates 
from the curd, and then draw off tlie water with a 
siphon, or by tilting the kettle. Pour the paste into a 
wooden frame, in which muslin, well powdered with a 
mixture of Lime and Starch, has been placed. Any 
wooden box large and tight enough will answer, and 



the muslin slntuld exteiul over the sides of the box, so 
that the soup ma}' ho easily lifted out. When the soap 
hceomes iirni lift it out, and when nearly dry cut it 
into hars with a brass wire, and let it harden. A little 
powdered llesin assists the soip to harden, and gives it 
a fine yellov/ color. W the soft soap he very thin, a 
larger quantity of Salt nnist be used. 



75-HARD SOAPS. 

THE domestic manufacture of hard soaps is attended 
with no more lal)or or troulde tiiaii is niot in the 
making of soft soaps. A very fine and pure (juality of 
hard soap can be nuide, without difficulty, at home. 
The main difierence between hard and soft soap is in 
the alkaline base. The alkaline base of hard soap is 
Caustic Soda; and the more solid the fat used, the 
firmer will be the resulting soap. 



76.-HOME-MADE CAUSTIC SODA. 

DISSOLVE six pounds of common washing Soda in 
four gallons of warm water. Next, slake six 
pounds of clean fresh Lime, using only as much water as 
is needed to perfectly crumble it. Stir tjie slaked 



12 

Lime and the Soda solution togetlicr, and add four gal- 
lons of boiling water. Stir the mixture thoroughly 
and let it settle. Then pour off the clear lye for use. 

77.-DOMESTIC HARD SOAP. 

PUT the Caustic Soda, prepared in the manner and 
quantity given in Method (76), into a clean iron ket- 
tle, and add during continual stirring twelve pounds 
of clarified fat, dusting in, a little at a time, four ounces 
of finely powdered Borax. Let the mass gently boil 
for ten or lil'teen minutes, or until it thickens and be- 
comes ropy. Then have in readiness a clean, tight box, 
lined witli a piece of ninslin large enough to c^xt/and well 
over the sides, to allow of the contents being afterward 
conveniently lifted out. I'our the mixture from the 
kettle into the box, and allow it to stand a few days to 
harden. When sufiiciently hard, turn it out on a ta- 
ble, and cut it into bars with a brass wire. Soap thus 
made, and left to harden in a oool, dry place, will be 
hard enough for use in a month. 

78.-CONCENTRATED LYE HARD SOAP. 

FILL an iron kettle two-thirds full of the concen. 
trated lye of Method {6G), aivJ add to it melted fat, 



a ladleful at a time, stirring constantly till the mixture 
becomes creamy. Tiieii ?idd Salt in small quantities at 
a time, stirring without intermission, until a perfect 
ring can be made on the surface with a stick. Then 
let the lire go out, and the soap will rise to the surface 
and harden as it cools. Tilt the kettle to draw the lye 
from under the soap, or else lift out the soap and lay it 
where it will dry hard enough to cut into bars. 

79.-HARD WHITE TALLOW SOAP. 

THIS is a fine white soap, of excellent quality, and 
is made as follows : Dissolve two pounds of Sal- 
soda in one gallon of boiling soft water. Mix with it 
two jxDunds of fresh slaked Lime, stirring occasionally 
fbr several hours. Then fet it settle. Pour off the 
clear li(juid ami add two pounds of Tallow, and boil 
the mixture till all the Tallow is dissolved. Cool the 
paste in a flat box, and when sufficiently firm cut into 
bars or cakes. It may be scented by stirring in the 
desired perfume as it cools. 

80.-CHEAP FAMILY SOAP. 



A 



DD to ten quarts of water six pounds of Quick- 
lime (Shell Lime is best) and six pounds of com- 



74 

nion v,";ishiti2: Soda. Tut all toi^ellicr, and lot tliom 
stand nvi'i' night to ('!e;ir. in tlio morning, al'lrr boil- 
ing !l)(' mixture for half an houi-, draw olf the lye, and 
add to it one jiound of common Kesin and seven 
pounds of ahiiost any kind of fit. I>oil the mass for 
Jialf an hour. Let it stand till cool and cut into bars. 
This kind of £^oap is largely used in hiundry establish- 
ments. 

81.-MYRTLE SOAP. 



DISSOLVE two pounds and a quarter of white 
Potash in five quarts of water, and add to this 
solution ten pounds of Myrtle Wax. L>oil the whole 
over a slow tiro till it turns to soap. Now add a tea- 
cuj)ful of cold water, and l>oil for ten minutes longer. 
At the end of that time, turn it into moulds or tin 
pans, and let it dry for a week or ten days before turn- 
ing it out of the moulds, it may be scented by stir- 
ring into it, just l)efore turning it into the moulds, any 
essential oil that has an agreeable perfume. This soa]) 
is excellent for sliaving and for chapped hands. It is 
also very good for eruptions on the fiu-e. It will be fit 
for use in three or four weeks after it is made, but it is 
better to let it stand nearly a vear before usins". 



75 



82.-CHEMICAL SOAP. 

THIS is an admirable soap lor removing grease 
spots. It is the same soap tliat has often been 
peddled tlir(_>ughout the country, and the process of 
manufacturing it claimed to be so wonderful and se- 
cret. It is easily made, however. Take an ounce of 
Fuller's Earth, and just moisten it with Sj)irits of Tur- 
pentine. Then add one ounce each of Salts of Tartar 
and the Ijcst (piality of Potash. AVork the whole into 
a paste with a little soap. 



83.-0X GALL SOAP. 

GALL soap, so valuable in washing fine silk goods 
and ribbons, is prepared in the following manner: 
Heat a, pouiui of Cocoanut Oil in a coi)per vessel to 
H()° Fahr., and add to it, during constant stirring, half 
a pound of Caustic Soda. Heat iti anotlier vessel half 
a pound of white Venetian Tur])entine, and when 
(piite hot stir it into the first ncsscI. Then cover this 
vessel and gently heat it for four liours, after which 
time increase the fire till tlie contents become ]»erfectly 
clear. Npxt add a ])ound of Ox Oall, and then stir 
into tlic inixture a ,^ufti(;ient (piantity of perfectly dry 



76 

Castile Soap to cause the whole mass to yield but little 
under the pressure of the tinger. From one to two 
pounds of Castile Soap would be required for the above 
quantity of ingredients. AVhen it cools, cut it into cakes. 
No soap can be manufactured which can excel the deter- 
gent properties of Ox Gall soap. It will not injure 
the finest colors. 



84-TOILET SOAPS. 



THE making of toilet soaps is in reality more simple 
and easier to accomplish than the manufacture 
of plain soaps. With very little trouble and expense 
enough toilet i^oap can be made at one time to last a 
family for years. If the directions be strictly followed, 
toilet soaps can be made at home vastly superior to the 
average market article. The chief requisite in making 
toilet soap is neatness. The liner kinds of scented 
soaps, having emollient properties, are rarely made di- 
rect by the perfumer, but have for a base some well se- 
lected coTumon white soap, which must be cleansed and 
])uriried. To be adapted for perfumery, the base 
should be ])erfcctly neutral, firm and free from all un- 
pleasant odors. The process employed for refining the 
body soap is called " Crutching." 



77 



85.-"CRUTCHING." 



CUT up the soap which lias been selected for the 
base as line as meal, which tits it to be readily 
melted. Mix it with Ilose and Orange Flower Water 
in the proportion of half a pint of each to twelve 
pounds of the soap. As it becomes fluid, stir it thor- 
oughly till the paste becomes uniformly coiisi^tent and 
smooth throughout. For this purpose, the pei-fumer 
uses a stick having a cross-piece at one end like an in- 
verted T, or crutch. Hence the term, " Crutching.'" 
AfteT the first crutching, allow the paste to cool, and 
then melt and thoroughly crutch it again, but without 
using tlie fragrant water. When the paste begins to 
cool again, add any desired coloring matter, and lastly 
the perfume, which is reserved to the last to a^■oid any 
loss by evaporation fi-om the hot paste. When cool, 
put the paste into frames and allow it to harden fur a 
day or two. Then cut it with a brass wire into cakes 
of any desired shape and size. 

Crutching constitutes the principal treatment in 
making toilet soaps, and it is now only necessary to 
give the proportions of ingredients for several superb 
varieties. 



78 



86.-H0NEY SOAP. 

USE lor the Imse live por.iuls of ^^•]lite eiird soap 
Melt tmd cTutcli it with one jiouiul of white 
Honey. Then shM three onnees of Stora.x and an 
ounce and a lialf of )»o\vdered Benzoin. Prepared in 
the ahove ])roportioii<, it will make a mild and very 
agreeable r=oap for toilet nt'e. 

87.-MUSK SOAP. 

USE for the base three pounds of the best quality 
of Tallow soap and two ]K>unds of Palm Oil soap. 
Alelt and erutdi with ])OwdtM-ed Cloves, Pale Poses and 
GilliHowers, each iialf an ounce. Peri'unie witli Es 
sence of Berganiot and Essence of Musk, each half an 
ounce. Tinge with Spanisli Brown, one ounce. 

88.-CELEBRATED WINDSOR SOAP. 



W 



flNDSOR soap, so celebrated as a toilet articde, lias 
for its base fine white curd soa]), five pounds ; 
Cocoanut Oil soap, one pound. Perfunid with a mix- 
ture of Attar of Carraway,two ounces; Attars of Thyme 



79 

and lloseiuary, each h:ilt' an ounce, tind Attar.- of Cas- 
sia and Cloves, each one-fourth of an ounce. 

To make the ]>ro\vn Windsor, add a little y(diow 
soap to the white base, and color Avith Camniel. The 
White and Brown Windsor are among the tinest toilet 
soaps that are manufactured. 



89-GLYCERINE SOAP. 



USE for a Lase any mild toilet soap, with which 
aljout one-twentieth of its weight of Price's Gly- 
cerine has l)een intimately incorporated while in a 
melted state. Tinge it of a red or rose color witli a 
little Tincture of Arcliil or of Dragon's Blood. It is 
vai'iouslv scented, hut Oil of Berganiot or Hose Gera- 
nium, supported wir!i a little Oil of Cassia, is its fa- 
vorite perfume. 



90,-ITALlAN HONEY SOAP. 



CUT into thin slices two pounds of good yellow 
soap. Place it in a double saucepan and keep 
water boiling aroun<l it, stirring it trequently wliile it 
melts. Then add a (piarter of a pound each of Palm 



80 

Oil and Honey, and a little True Oil of Cinnamon. 
Let all boil together six or eight minutes. Then pom- 
it out and let it staiul lill the next day, when it will be 
tit lor inunediate use. Jf made aecording 1o these di- 
rections, it will be a very superior toilet soap. 



^■'-fe:l^. &P < 



■' M' ^ ^ - 



CHAPTER V. 



91-ST AINS ON LINEN AND COTTON. 

STAINS are too often a convenient excuse for indlfler- 
ent washing. Wliatever ruljljing; will not extract the 
housewife passes with the satisfying belief that it is a 
stain, the removal of which is an impossibility. The 
washerwoman, when confronted with an illy cleaned 
garment, overcomes censnre with the triumphant ex- 
cuse, " That's a stain ; it won't come out." Such 
excuses, however, would little avail an employee of the 
city laundry. There are no stains, discolorations or 
dyes, however indelible they may seem, but what some 
chemical agent will bleach or extract them. Fine articles 
discolored with stains look as bad as though they were 
soiled. In reality, a stain is dirt. Anything foreign 
to the material is dirt, and the article is still soiled un- 
less the stain be removed. The removal of stains is 
not near so difficult an operation as is generally sup- 
posed. The ability to remove any hind of stain is the 



83 

pride of laundry establishments, and, from every-daj 
practice, their employees acquire great skill in ascer- 
taining the nature of any stain, and then successfully 
extracting it. A number of methods and expedient>; 
are presented in this chapter, and they embrace nearly 
every variety of stains. Many of the chemical agents 
used in these methods are probably unfamiliar to most 
persons; but tliis fact should never deter them from 
employing the methods, whenever they may have an 
occasion for removing stains from valued articles. They 
are methods in every-day use, and are the most relia1)h' 
and jn-actical that can be used. The various chemical-; 
may be obtained from any druggist. Wherever any 
precaution should attend the use of them it is fully 
stated, and, as far as possible, their cliemical action i- 
explained. It is often difficult to determine whether a 
stain will come out easily or not. Frequently, what 
apj^ears to be a stain difficult of removal comes out Ijy 
the sinqilest method ; vice versa, simple stains often 
require careful treatment. Of course, the simpler the 
remedy competent to effect the cure, the better. The 
following stain methods end)ody not only distinct 
classes of stains, but methods for general cases are aL o 
given. AVhen the origin of the stain is obscure, a gen- 
eral method will be found very useful. Ladies can use 
their judgment in regard to which method is the most 
applicable to the particular case they niay have for 



treatment. If one expedient fails, resort to another. 
Persevering and repeated application will rarely fail. 



92.-STAINS PRODUCED BY VEGETA- 
BLE JUICES. 

FRUIT stains, wine stains, and those produced by 
colored vegetable juices, are often nearly indeli- 
ble, and require various treatment. They may always 
be removed, however, if a little perseverance is exer- 
cised. Among the expedients resorted to, the follow- 
ing are the most effectual. Always carefully examine 
the linen, and extract all stains of this class previous 
to washing ; for the stains are apt to be set so firmly by 
soap-suds that their removal is rendered exceedingly 
difficult. 

93-FRUIT STAINS IN LINEN. 

To remove fruit stains in linen, rub each side of the 
portion stained with yellow soap ; then tie up a 
piece of Pearl-ash in the cloth and soak it well in hot 
water, or boil it if the stain be obstinate. Afterward, 
expose the stained part to the action of the air and sun 
until the stain disappears. 



84 



94-WINE STAINS IN LINEN. 



THIS is a simple and generally a very successful 
method of extracting wine stains : Hold the 
stained part of tlie article in milk that is boiling on 
the stove. Usually this will soon take out the stain, 
and the process is attended with no injury whatever 
to the fabric. 



95 -SPECIAL AGENTS FOR OBDURATE 
CASES. 

OBDURATE fruit and wine stains of almost any 
variety may be removed by using some one of the 
folloA\ing ingredients: A weak solution of C-hlorine 
Chloride of Lime, Spirits of Salts, Oxalic Acid, oi 
Salts of Lemon, in warm water. Quite iVctiuently, a 
little Lemon Juice will be sufficient. Each of tho.-;e 
ingredients should be diluted witli warm witter, and 
the stained part should ]>e well washed with water 
only, previous to apjdying them. Let the stained por- 
tion lie In the sohition about two minutes; after which, 
the article should be rinsed in warm water, free from 
soap, and then dried. Stains of tliis (dass may some- 



85 

times be taken nut by ^lakiii^ the linen in sour But- 
termilk, and then <!rying- in the heat of the sun. Af- 
terward, wash in elcai\ cold water. Repeat the process 
two or three times a day until it is successful. 



96.-CLARET AND PORT WINE STAINS. 



\ PPLY some table-salt to the ttained ^[K)!, and 
j~\ moist(>n it with a. little Sherry. A'"t;^r wa.sliinij;, 
no trace of the stain will be left. The a;'id which tlie 
Slierry contains decomposes the salt, and Chlorine 
(Bleachin^j; (las) is set free, wliich destroys the vegeta- 
ble coloring matter of the wine. If it is a port wine 
stain, the Sherry should be likewise added to the salt, 
as the port also contains acid. 



97.-ACID AND TEA STAINS. 

SPIRITS of Hartshorn, diluted with an equal quan- 
titj of M'ater, will often remove stains produced 
by acids, tea, wine or fruits. After the application of 
the Hartshorn, the article should be well rinsed in cold 
w;iter. In difficult eases it may be necessary to repeat 
tlie application several times before the stains are 
entirely removed. 



86 



98.-0LD FRUIT AND WINE STAINS. 

FRUIT and wine stains which have remained for 
some time, and have become seemingly indelibly 
Bet, should be subjected to this treatment : Eub each 
side of the stain with yellow soap, and then apply very 
thickly a paste of Starch atid cold water. Rub the 
paste well in, and expose the linen to the action of the 
sun and air until the stain disappears. As it becomes 
dry, sprinkle it from time to time with a little water. 
If not removed in three or four days, rub off the paste 
and renew the process. A second application rarely 
fails. 

99.-STAINED NAPKINS AND TABLE- 
CLOTHS. 

NAPKINS, table-cloths or other white fabrics that 
are stained with coffee or fruits, previous to being 
put into soap-suds, should have boiling water turned 
over them, and be allowed to soak until the water be- 
comes cold ; then rub out the spots in this water. If 
they are put into soap-suds with the stains in them, the 
suds will set the stains so that no subsequent washing 
will remove them. Table-cloths and napkins will be 



87 

far Icrs likely to become ptai?u"l if tliey arc alwajg 
starched a little, as the starch has a tendeucj to pre- 
vent eutt'eo and juieeti of fruits from penetrating into 
tlic texture of the eloth. 



lOO.-PROCESS OF SULPHURATIOR 

ULPHUROUS Acid Gas is often (>niployed to 
bleach out stains, and is very cfiectu;i]. It ninj 
be generated at, the nionienl of iisinir bv l^urninp; a 
little piece of sulphur under the wide end of a small 
paper funnel, the npper orifice of which i,- a])plied 
near the stain, which must be previously moistened 
with hot water. 

Coffee and chocolate stains, when every other means 
fail, nuiy be removed l)y carefully washinij; in very 
hot water, and then subjectiniz; the spot to sulphura- 
tion. In the case of slight stains, a lighted sulphur 
match held uiuler the stain will produce sufficient Sul- 
pliurous Acid Gas to bleach out the stain. Stains 
caused by any vegetable acid can generally be removed 
by sulphuration. 

Sulpliuric Acid diluted with water, or water acidu- 
lated with a little Muriatic or Oxalic Acid, is very ef- 
tectual in removing fruit stains. Care must be taken 
not to have the acidulated water so strong; as to eat a 



hole in the cloth. As soon as the stain is out, rinse in 
Pearl-ash water, and then through fair water. 



lOl.-TO REMOVE IRON RUST. 

STAINS of iron rust are frequently quite obstinate 
and their removal very difficult to accomplish by 
the direct application of any reagent. If, however, the 
nature of tlio stain be changed, or a new stain be cre- 
ated, the now stain, together with tlie iron rust, can be 
readily removed. First, moisten the part stained, with 
Ink, and then remove the Ink with Muriatic xVcid 
diluted witli hve or six times its weight of water. 
In this treatment it will be found that the old and new 
Btains have been simultaneously removed. This is a 
very effectual method, even in the most dithcult cases. 

102-INK SPOTS. 

SPOTS of common or indelible ink may be removed 
by saturating them with Lemon Juice, and then 
rubbing on common Salt. Afterward, place tlieni 
where the hot rays of the sun will shine on them for 
several hours. As fast as they dry, rub on more Lemon 
Juice and Salt. When Lemon Juice is not easy to 



89 

obtain, Citric \c'u\ iiiakr>s a good substitute. Iron 
rust may soinelimcs be removed iu the same manner. A 
solution ot Chloride of Lime (3S) is also largely em- 
ploye 1 in laundries tor removing ink spots. Soaking 
cotton goods that have common ink s})ilt on them, in 
lukewarm sour milk, Avill frequently be successful. 



103.--DEL1CATE FABRICS STAINED 
WITH INK OR IRON MOULD. 

To extract ink or iron mould from delicate linen 
fabrics, wet the s]>ots with Milk and then cover 
them with common Salt. Then lay them in the heat 
of the sun, and wet them occasionally as they dry. 
Another way to take out ink stain is to dip the spot in 
melted Tallow. This is the best plan to employ for 
tine, delicate articles. 

104.-ESSENTIAL SALTS OF LEMON. 

ESSENTIAL Salts of Lemon, so useful in extract- 
ing ink, iron rust and many otlier stains from 
linen and cotton, is made as follows: Take one ounce 
of Oxalic Aciil in powder and mix it with four ounces 
cf Cream of Tartar. The mixture ought to be pre- 



90 

served in small round boxes. In using, wet tlie linger 
with water and dip it in the powder ; then gently rub 
the spot, keeping it rather moist, and the stain will dis- 
appear without injury to the lal)rie. This preparation 
is not the Lemon Essence Ubod in lemonade making, 
but, if swallowed, is very poiK)nous. Jt should l)e la- 
beled, poison . 

105.-IR0N RUST AND INK STAINS 
OF LONG STANDING. 

THE removal of these stains is a matter of some 
difficulty if they have renuiinel long on the fa- 
bric. It cfin be done, howevur, l»y ap])lying Oxalic 
Acid in powder upon the spots, which must be pre- 
viously moistened with water. yVfter tlie acid has been 
well rubbed in, it should be thoroughly washed out ; 
for Oxalic Acid is highly corrosive tf) textile fabrics. 
Care should always be exercised in employing strong 
acids; for they are very apt to injure and rot the cloth. 

106.-YELL0W SULPHIDE OF AMMONIA. 

THIS method is free from the objections against the 
use of strong acids, and will remove stains of long 
standing almost immediately. Wet the marks ot ink 



91 

or iron mould with Yellow Sulphide of Ammonia, by 
which they will bo iiuniediately blackened. Allow it 
to remain a minute or two for the stains to become 
well blackened. TluMi, with water, wash out the ex- 
cess of Ammonia iSulphide, and treat the remaining::; 
black spot with cold dilute ^Muriatic Acid, whereby it 
will be immediately removed. Finally, wash well with 
water. 



107,-TO EXTRACT MILDEW. 



FROM the nature of mildcAr stains, it is obvious 
that their successful re.imval may 1>c attended with 
some difHculty. Several methods are here presented. 
A lady can easily determine which is best ada})ted to 
any particular case. If one method fails, try another. 
In removing mildew and many other stains, a great 
reliance may be placed upon the l)leaching powers of 
" Old Sol." Rub soap thoroughly on the mildew spots; 
then scrape some Chalk, and rub that also over the 
spots. Lay the linen on the grass in the heat of the 
sun, and its rays will bleach out the spots. As it dries, 
wet it a little, and the mildew will come out, at the 
farthest, in the second application. 



93 

108-STARCH AND SALT METHOD. 

ANOTllEIl successful way oi" icuioviiig mildew is 
to mix togetlier soft Soap, i)o\vdered IStiircli, half a^ 
jnuch Salt as Starch, and the juice of a Lemon, and 
apply the mixture to the spots with a brush. Let the 
article lay on the grass day and night until the mildew 
disappears. This recipe is a good one. 

109.-CHLORIDE OF LIME, 

TAKE two ounces of Chloride of Lime and pour 
over it a quart of I»oiling water ; tlien add three 
quarts of cold water. Steej) the mildewed linen in 
this solution for ;in hour, when every spot will he (ex- 
tracted. On taking the linen out of the solution, itu- 
merse it inmiediately in boiling water, and let it soak 
for fifteen minutes (38). Fruit and wine stains may 
also be removed in this way. Some grades of linen 
which have contracted mildew may recpiire rejieated 
applications for two or three days, rinsing out and 
bleaching in the sunshine after each application. 

110.-OXALIC AND CITRIC ACID 
SOLUTION. 



A 



VERY good solution for extracting mildew may be 
prepared by mixing together Oxalic Acid, Citric 



f)3 

Acid and Milk. Ptub it well into tlu* spots; repeat hS 
it dries? ; tliorouglilj wash an*] bleacli on the grass. 
Quite often niiklew ma}- ho removed l)y simply dipping 
the stained portion in sour Buttermilk, laying it 'u\ the 
sunshine, and, as soon as it is white, rinsing in fair 
water. 

Ill-STAIN METHOD FOR SUMMER 
USE. 

THE juice of green Tomatoes thickly mixed with 
Salt will remove stains of Narious kinds from 
white goods. The mixture is applied to the stain, and 
the article then exposed to tlu^ action of tlu» sun. 
During the sumuu^r and fall, when articles are most 
likely to become stained with fruits, cVrc, this will be 
found a very practical method, as the ingredients can 
be readily obtained. It can be used ibi- white goods 
only, as the Tomato Juice will desti-oy coloiv. On ac- 
count of its simplicity and inability to injure the cloth, 
it would be advisable to try this method Ix^bre resort- 
ing to others. .\ great variety (tl" stains, fruit, wine, 
ink, iron rust, mildew, iVc., e\»n when they aiv (juite 
obstinate, will yichl to this Ireatnu'iit. 



I 



112.-ACID AND ALKALI STAINS. 

F the discoloration has been produced by acids, Aqua 
Ammonia will generally remove it, If it has been 



94 

produced by Alkaline Substances, moderately strong 
Vinegar should be a2:)plied. When the article is deli- 
cate, the Vinegar slionld be discolored by being filtered 
through powdered ('harcoal. Acid stains on linen may 
also l)e removed by wetting the part ainJ applying some 
Salts of WorniM'ood (Carbonate of Potassa). Then 
rub tiie Salts ol" AVu-iiiwood well into the cloth, with- 
out diluting it with water. These agents will almost 
immediately neutraliz3 tlie stains, 

Ii3.-NITRIC ACID STAINS. 

WHENEVER nitric acid in any quantity falls on 
an article, it is apt to burn a hole through the 
fabric, and, in tJiat case, it would be useless, of course, 
to try the following method. If the stain be slight and 
the threads not actually consumed, then the original 
color may be restored by this method : Apply to the 
stain a solution of Permanganate of Potassium ; then, 
while the fabric is moist, expose it to the fumes of 
burning sulphui- (100), 



I 



114.-M1LK STAINS. 

N extracting milk stains, they should be first soaked 
in Benzoin to remove the fatty portion of the milk; 



and afterward in warm Borax Water, ;ts ^l^'ni^• a.^ it 
can be made, and containing Potash in the pioportion 
of half an ounce to a ])int of Borax Water. iSome- 
times old milk stains ai'c very ditticult to remove, and 
reqnii-e continued applications. 

115.-~PERSP1RATI0N STAINS. 

THE stains produced by perspiration aie not unfre- 
quently quite obstinate. The best wny to remove 
them is to apply a strong solution of Soda. A concen- 
trated Soda solution seldom fails t<> bleach out the 
stains. Afterward, the part should be tliorougldy 
rinsed in warm water, to prevent the Soda from in- 
juring the fabric. 

116.-T0 DISSOLVE OLD BLOOD 
STAINS. 

OLD blood stains that have become set may be dis- 
solved out of the cloth l»y this treatment : Apply 
to the stains a solution of Iodide of Potassa in four 
times its -weight of water. The Iodide of Potassa 
should be then washed out with warm water, and it 
will be found that the blood stains have entirely disap- 
peared. 



96 



117.-T0 REMOVE STAINS OF IODINE. 

\7AKI0US preparations of Iodine are laroelj em- 
plojetl for medicinal applications, and their use is 
always dreaded on account of the bad stains tliey leave 
Stains of Iodine may be removed by rectified Spirits; 
or, what is still better, any Tincture of Iodine may be 
prevented from leaving a stain after it is used. Add a 
few drops of litpiid Carbolic Acid to the Iodine Tinc- 
ture, and the latter v.iU leave no stain. A ixood medi- 
cal authority reconnuends Carbolic Acid as renderino- 
the efficacy of Tincture of Iodine more certain. 

i18.-ANlLlNE RED (MAGENTA). 

STAINS of aniliiic red may be readily extracted by 
the application of Cyanide of Potassa. Simply 
soak the stained portion of the article for a few min- 
utes in a weak solution of Cyanide of Potassa, which 
will neutralize the stain. The article should be well 
rinsed immediately after the application. This is a 
niBver-failing method. 

'119.-S00T STAINS. 

STAINS caused by soot, or contracted while hand. 
ling stove-pipes, are usually not difficult to extract. 



97 

In case,:^ Avliere simple meuus I'ail, the following method 
may he sueeessfully employed : First, wash the spot 
witli Sulpliuric Acid dihitel with water, and tlieii rinse 
in eleui- w at<'i-. Cai-e mnst he taken to sutiieientlj di- 
lute the Siilj.liuric Aeid, or else; it may injure the cloth, 

120.-TAR, PITCH, RESIN, PAINT, ETC. 

Tins metho.l includes all eases where the staining 
suhstanee i> of a resinous eharaeter : Pour on the 
spots a little Alcohol, and let it soak in abo\it half an 
hour. Then ruh it gently, and it will be found that 
the Alcohol has dissolved out the glutinous quality, so 
that the residue will easily crumble out. Chloroform, 
also, is an exeelh-nt medium to v<'move paint stains 
from articles. Portions of dry white paint that have 
resisted the action of Alcohol, Ether, or Penzoin, are 
at once removed by Chloroform. Tuipentine or Alco- 
hol wdll answer very well when the stains are fresh. 

121.-YELL0W CLAY STAINS. 

WHENEA^EP red shale and certain varieties of 
clay come in contact with wliite goods, they 
leave conspicuous i-cd or yellow stains. In wet weather, 
the bottom of white JJrt.- are es])eeially liable to be- 



98 

come discolored with shale or clay mud. Yery often 
stains of tliis kind cannot be washed out with soap and 
water, witliout rubbing tlie article nearly to shreds. 
The best and speediest way of removing such stains is 
to pass the skirt or discolored article througli the 
Laundi-y " Bleacli " (38). Tliis process will entirely 
obliterate every trace of the stain, and at the same 
time give tlie article a beautiful whiteness. 



122-GREASE SPOTS. 

SCOURING drops, which will remove spots of 
grease from linen or any other material, may be 
made by mixing together Spirits of Turpentine and 
Essence of Lemon, of each one ounce. The Essence must 
be newly made, or it will leave a circle around the 
spot. This metliod is applicable not only to linen and 
cotton, but is also excellent for extracting grease from 
silks, woolens, or goods of any material. 



123-NON-METALLIC STAINS. 

THIS method possesses general powers, and will 
remove nearly all stains which are not metallic. 
Mix two tablespoonfiils of water with one of Spirits of 



99 

Salts (Muriatic Acid) Let tlic stained part lie in tliis 
mixture for one or two minutes, and then rinse in cold 
water. Tliis treatment will be found particularly use- 
ful in renmvin'j^ staiu^ from v.'hito napkins and table- 
cloths. 

124.-SC0URING BALLS FOR GENERAL 

USE. 

IN order to remove a stain the cause or origin of 
which is doubtful, a composition is requisite which 
possesses various powers. Egg scouring balls, the for- 
muha for preparing which is given below, are excellent 
for such a purpose ; Dissolve a quarter of a pound of 
white Soap in a glassful of Alcohol, and beat mto this 
the Yolks ot four or five Eggs. Add, gradually, a lit- 
tle Spirits of Hartshorn, and then incorporate with the 
mixture sufficient Fuller's Earth to convert the whole 
into solid balls. Prepared in this manner, the balls 
will be always convenient for use. In removing the 
stain, wet the stained part with soft water, and then 
rub it with a ball of the above composition, which 
should be well worked into the cloth. Then thoroughly 
wash out the composition. Egg scouring balls will re- 
move almost any stain except ink spots and stains 
caused by various solutions of iron. 



100 



125.-STAIN MIXTURES. 

SOME laundry establishments ahvdjs keep on hand 
stain mixtures for general use. Such mixtures 
are very valuable in eases where the nature of the stain 
is not understood. Also, for stains for which there is 
no special method ; or, when a method whicli seems to 
be particularly adapted to certain cases fails to remove 
the stain, then a general stain mixture can be advan- 
tageously employed. Two of the best stain mixtures 
for general use are given beU^\\- : 

Mixture No. 1. — Dissolve half an ounce of Sorrel 
in half a pint of water, and add two ounces of Spirits 
of Wine. Shake them all \\v]\ toiictlicr Ajiplv the 
mixture to the stain with a s|)oip_':('. 

Mixture No. 2. — Mix together an ounce each of Sal 
Ammonia and Salts of Tartar, and add one pint of 
soft water. 



126-TO RESTORE SCORCHED LINEN. 

ALTH(3UGII appearing an iii!i)ossibility, yt-t even 
where articles are badly scorched, the color can 
be restored. The composition used for tins purpose 
will doubtless seem to be prepared from singular mgre- 



101 

clients; but experience lias |irovc(! that it will successfullj 
accomplish the desired re>ult. It is liardlj necessary 
to state that it is needless to apply the composition it' 
tlie texture oi" the linen is so much Inirnt that no 
strength is left. Nothing, in that case, could ])revent a 
hole from being formed, although the composition by 
no means tends to injure the fabric. If. however, the 
scorching is not quite through and the threads not ac- 
tually consumed, then the application of the composi- 
tion, followed by two or three good washings, will re- 
store the linen to its original color. The marks of the 
scorching will be totally effaced, and the place will 
eeem as white and perfect as an}' other part of the 
linen. ^lix well together two ounces of Fuller's 
Earlh I'efluced to powder, one ounce of Ih'rd Guano, 
half an ounce of cake Soap finely scraped, ami the 
juice of two large onitms. The onions should be 
sliced, beaten in a mortar, and ]>res:-ed. Hoil this mass 
in half a pint of strong Viufgar, ;-tin-ing it from time 
to time, till it forms a thick l!(|uid (•om]»ound. Spread 
this composition thickly over the scorched part, and 
let it renuiin for twenty-four hours. If the scorching 
was light, one application, with the assistance of two 
subsequent washings, will be sufficient to restore the 
whiteness. If, however, the scorching was strong, a 
second coating should be jriven after the removal of 
the first, and this likewise allowed to remain for 



lo2 

twenty-four liours. Al'ier the linen has been washed 
two or tiiree times, an J the scorciiing is still visible, 
apply the composition again, and a complete cnre will 
seldom fail to be effected. It rarely ever happens that 
a third application is necessary. The remainder of the 
composition may be kept for future use by preserving 
it in a gallipot, covered and tied over with bladder. 






CHAPTER VI. 



127.-CARE OF LINEN. 

IT is an excellent plan and consistent with economy, 
to carefully examine and repair all articles which re- 
quire it, previous to consigning them to the laundry. 
Much after work is often thus saved. It is also prudent 
to number articles, and so arrange them after they are 
washed, that they may have their regular turn and 
term in domestic use. When linen is well dried, aired, 
and laid away for use, nothing further is necessary, ex- 
cept to secure it from damp and insects. 

128.-AR0MATIC HERBS. 

AN agreeable way to protect linen from insects, is 
to intersperse among the drawers and shelves a 
judicious mixture of aromatic shrubs and flowers, cut 
up and sewed in silken bags. The mixture may con- 



104 

siBt of Lavender, Thyme, Roses, Cedar ^^havings, pow- 
dered Sassafras, Cassiii, Ligiiia, iS:r., to which may be 
added a few drops of Attar of Koses, or other strong 
scented perfume. 

129.-LAVENDER SCENT BAG. 

THE drawers and linen may be nicely perfumed, by 
a Lavender Scent Bag, which cnn he made as fol- 
lows: Tal<(! half a pound of Lavender Flowers^, free 
from stalk-; half an ounce each of dried Thyme and 
Mint, a (juarter of an ounce each ol ground Cloves and 
Carraway, and one ounce of common Salt, dried. Mix 
the whole well together, and sew up the product in silk 
or cambric bags. 

130.-T0 KEEP AWAY MOTHS, 
BEETLES, ETC. 

SEAV up a piece of Camphor in a linen bag, and place 
a few of these bags in tlie drawers, among the lin- 
en and woolen goods, an-l neither motli nor worm will 
come near them. Brimstone, in rolls, put away with 
articles, M-ill prevent moths, and no odor is imparted to 
the clothes. 



105 

131.-AN AGREEABLE PERFUME. 

A VERY pleasant perfunie, and also a preventive 
against moths, may 1)e made of the following ingre- 
dients: Take one ounce each, of Cloves, Carraway 
Seeds, Nutmeg, Mace, Cinnamon, and Tonquin Beans^ 
and then add as much Florentine Orris Root as will 
equal the other ingredients put together. Grind the 
whole well together, and then sew it in little bags, and 
place them among the clothes, 

132.-A DELICATE PERFUME FOR KID 
GLOVES. 

THE following, is an excellent perfume for kid 
gloves, ribbons, laces, tfec. Take one drachm each 
of Ambergris and Civet, and add a quarter of an ounce 
of Flour-Butter. Mix them all well together. Rub 
the gloves over gently with the perfume, applying it 
with fine cotton wool, and press the perfume into them 

133-LAYING AWAY SUMMER GOODS. 



I 



T is customary with many ladies, to wash, starch and 
iron summer clothing when laying it away for the 



106 

winter. Tlie goods are laundried just as if they were 
to be worn in a day or two. This is very bad policy; 
for starched articles, when laid away for months, with- 
out use, are extremely liable to turn yellow and mildew. 
In such cases, the best way is to simply "rough-dry" 
them, that is, wash and strongly blue them, but do not 
starch or ev'en iron them, and roll them up for laying 
away, instead of folding. Lace curtains, and all deli- 
cate summer goods, when laid away "rough-dried," will 
be found uninjured when wanted again. 

134.-INDELIBLE INK. 

IT is obvious, that in a well regulated family, every 
article should be marked with the owner's name or 
initial, and carefully numbered. Trouble is often had 
in obtainiuLj a c;ood indelible ink for marking clothes. 
Many marking inks, although black when first applied 
to the linen, become gradually washed out, and a yellow- 
ish stain only remains. A good indelible ink should 
have the following properties: 

It sliould flow freely from the pen, without running 
or blotting. 

It should not require very strong or long-continued 
heat to develop the required hue. ]\[erely passing a 
hot iron over the marks, or by liolding the cloth to the 
fire, should bring out a perfectly black mark. 



107 

It should not injure tlic texture of the finest fabric. 

A recipe is given below for an indelible ink, from 
the formula of Jules Guiller, a celebrated chemist. This 
ink can be easily made, and answers all the above 
requisites. 

135.-FORMULA FOR MAKING INDELI- 
BLE INK 

NITRATE of Silver, - - - 5 drachms, 
Distilled water, ... 12 " 

Powdered Gum- Arabic, - - 5 " 
Carbonate of Soda, - - - 7 " 

Ammonia, - - - - - 10 " 
Dissolve the Carbonate of Soda in the Distilled 
"Water, and diffuse through the solution the pow- 
dered Gum-Arabic. Distolve the Nitrate of Silver in 
the Ammonia, and commingle this with the other so- 
lution. Next, warm the mixed fluids in a flask, by 
which they become at first grayish black and partly 
coagulated, subsequently brown and clear ; then, when 
ebullition begins, very dark, and of such a consistency 
that the ink flows readily from a pen. No precipitate 
forms in this ink; and by boiling, its color becomes 
darker. Prepared in the above manner, it produces 
very black marks upon linen. It can be used with a 



108 

clean steel pen, and is also very suitable for marking 
with stamps or stencil plates. 

136.-SURE METHOD OF DISINFECTING. 

A KNOWLEDGE of some simple and effectual 
]nethod for disinfecting wearing apparel, bed 
clothes, or otlier fabrics, which have become infected 
with contagious matter, is not un frequently of great 
importance. Where not only the dreaded small-pox 
and yellow fever, but even the jiiorc connnon con- 
tagious disease?, scarlatina., measels, typlius and malarial 
fevers prevail, articles in the si(d< ron:)! ;nid about the 
person of the patient quickly, become infected with tho 
poison and readily spread the disease. In all such cases 
disinfection should be thorough before the articles are 
put to further use; and the knowledge of the best jiieth- 
od for accomplishing this purpose will be of great 
value. The precaution may prevent the sickness or 
death of loved ones. 

During the terrible yellow fever epidemic of'TS, 
when the merciless scourge swe}»t over the sunny 
South, nearly depopulating the beautiful valley of the 
Mississippi, it became the duty of the Post Office and 
Treasury Departments at AVashington, to adopt the 
surest method possible for disinfecting mail matter. 



109 

money packages, and all articles coining from the in- 
fected cities. The protection of the government clerks, 
npon whom devolved the handling of snch matter, de- 
manded that the method shonld be absolutely certain. 
After elaborate experiments, the disinfectjug agent 
selected was Gasoline. It was found tliat when letter.-., 
money packages, or packages of linci, cotton, woulen, 
or silk goods were saturated with (lasoline, the liqnid 
evaporated almost immediately, leaving the article 
thoroughly disinfected, and without the slightest injury 
to the color or texture of the finest fabric. This was 
an important discovery, as Gasoline is undoubtedly the 
surest and best disinfectant for such a purpose. In all" 
eases where it is necessary to disinfect articles impreg- 
nated with contagious poison, immerse them in Gas- 
oline; or, where immersion is impracticable, sponge the 
surface M'ith GJasoline. hi less than live minutes, tlie 
liquid will evaporate, leaving not the slightest trace of 
its presence, and the disinfection v/ill be etTectual. 

137,-TO RENDER GARMENTS FIRE- 
'y PROOF. 

TO render garments fire-proof is a very simple oper- 
ation, and, in certain cases, a knowledge of the 
process may be of advantage. A solution containing 



no 

five per cent, of Pliospliate of Ammonia will render 
dress goods, into which it i:^ rubbed, perfectly fire-roof. 
Tho]-oughly saturate the goods with tlie solution, and 
dry them away from the fire. Even if gunpowder is 
exploded yn goods thus treated, they will only char, 
not blaze. 



CHAPTER VIL 



ISa-IMPROVED METHOD OF CUTTING 
AND MAKING SHIRTS. 



PERHAPS a treatise on shirt manufacture may ap- 
pear to be beyond the limits of a Laundry Guide ; 
yet tlie art of neatly laundr^'ing and glossing sliirts 
has been presented so explicitly that it seems a 
pity to bestow such labor upon an illy-fitting garment. 
However beautifully done up a shirt may be, the etfect 
is vastly impaired if an accurate fit be not possessed. 
How often on Sabbath mornings, while the clean linen 
is being donned, is the serenity of the day broken and 
the wife or mother made uncomfortable by impatient 
fault-findings. Every lady, the happy possessor of a 
husband or son particular and difficult to please, is fa- 
miliar with such a scene. An uncomfortable fittina; 
shirt is, in truth, perfectly abominable to the wearer ; 
and gentlemen are so proverbially foult-finding in this 



112 

rcppcct tliat we present to ladies tliis chapter on Im- 
proved Shirt Cutting and Making, witli tlie confidence 
that it will be Ingldy a(.-ceptab]e. 

it is well understood that both tlie quality and dura- 
bility of the shirt of home manufacture are far supe- 
rior to those ol' (iistoin make, and it is no more labor 
to have the home-made shirt of a correct tit than of an 
imperfect one. The troultle of cutting is the same, and 
no more stitches need be taken. Noi- is thei-e any par- 
ticular skill demanded in acquiring this ai't, so little 
understood, of neatly fitting a sliirt : all that is needed 
is some plan whereby exact measurements may be 
taken ami applied, in consequence of wliich the fit of 
the sliirt will be accurate. Former charts and designs 
for cutting shirt patterns have been so vague and dilii- 
cult to coiuprehend that the}' are of little value. They 
perplex rather than aid the maker. The method here 
presented was taught us by a professional shirt-maker, 
one who has the reputation of making a sliirt fit as 
neatly as a glove. This method is so natural and easy 
to understand, and, withal, so reliable, that any lady, 
who never in her life made a shirt, can, b}' its aid, 
readily cut and make one, either for the smallest boy 
or the largest man, that Avill set admirably. Surely, the 
satisfaction and pleasure which such a shirt affords, 
both to the wearer and maker, is of no small en- 
joyment. 



lis 



139.-SELECTI0N OF MATERIAL. 

IT will idwayd be found the most economical in the 
long run to procure the best brand of muslin out of 
whicli to make the shirt. Every one, of course, has 
tlieir preference. Very thick, heavy muslin, however, 
althougli it may be of excellent quality, is not the best 
for this purpose. It is hard to wash and iron, and in 
wearing is apt to crack and bi-eal:. Some fine brand 
of light v/eiglit is preferable, and the sliirt made of 
such quality of muslin will last much longer. 



140.-SHRINKING THE MUSLIN. 



BEFORE cutting the material, it should always be 
shrunk. This can be well done by washing the 
muslin in warm soap-suds, and then hanging it in a 
position wliere the hot rays of tlie sun will quickly dry 
it. This process will prevent many familiar complaints 
of shirts becoming too small, or of the linen in the 
bosom and cuffs getting looser than the lining, faults 
so common in the shirts of manufactories. 



lU 



141.-C0MM0N FAULTS IN THE FIT OF 
A SHIRT. 

THE principal parts of a shirt are, the body, yoke, 
sleeves, and the bosom ; besides these, there are 
several minor parts — collar, cufTs, bands, gussets, and 
tongue. By observing the wrinkles which form in a 
shirt during a day's wear, faults in its fit may be readily 
ascertained. The most common are, that it is not cut 
out enough in the neck, is too long on the shoulder, 
and across the chest is too broad. The first of these 
faults causes the bosom to bulge. By the two latter, 
wrinkles and creases are formed around the arms. 
These faults may be easily guarded against, if the 
proper measurements be taken. 

142.~SEVEN MEASUREMENTS. 

\ GOOD fitting shirt requires seven measurements, 
i 1 :^nd these measurements cannot be taken with too 
great accuracy. They are as follows: 

First. —The length of the garment. This measure- 
ment is taken from the nape of the neck downward,' 
and may be longer or shorter at will, preference vary- 
ing' in regard to the length of the shirt. 



115 

Second. — Tlie breadth of the chest from one arm to 
the other. 

I'hi.rd. — The length of the bo.^om. For this, two 
measurements are required. The hrst, directly in 
front, from the base of the neck to t'ae waist. The 
second, from the top of the shoulder, where it joins the 
neck, to a corresponding point of the waisr. 

Fourth. — The length of the shoulder. This is taken 
from tiie point where the shoulder joins the neck to 
the tip or extremity of the shoulder. 

Fifth. — The size around the neck. This should be 
taken in the smallest part of the neck, allowing 
one incli over the measurement. Mark this in full, 
and also mark one-third of it. 

Sixth. — The length of the sleeve. Measure down 
the inside of the arm, and allow two inches more for 
the length on the outside. 

Seventh. — The size of the wrist, taken loosely. 

143.-DIMENSI0NS OF A SHIRT OF 
MEDIUM SIZE. 

NOW, in order to give these measurements more 
clearness, the dimensions of a medium-size shirt 
will be assumed. Suppose the length of the prospec- 
tive shirt to be a yard and an eighth ; the length of the 



118 

sleeve five-eighths of a yard, and three-eighths suffi- 
cient for 3'oke, bands, &e. Three and a fourth yards 
of material, seven-eighths in width, will accordingly 
be required. From this quantity cut off what is to be 
used for sleeves, yoke, &c., and there is left for the 
body two and a fourth yards, twice the assumed length, 
since the shirt is made of two breadths. Double the 
two and a fourth yards in the width, and cut apart — 
one breadth beins; for the back, the other for the front. 



144.-THE MODERN SHIRT-FRONT 
BREADTH. 

THE front breadth of the modern-styled shirt, hav- 
ing a shield-shape bosom, is now prepared as fol- 
lows : Fold the muslin in the length, having the edges at 
t!io lop and bottom exactly even. First, take the sec- 
ond uioasureinent (li2), which is from one arm to the 
other across the chest, or from A to B, Plate F The 
more exactness with which tliis measurement is taken, 
the neater the front of the shirt will fit. This is one 
of the most important points. Having the muslin 
folded, only one-half of the measurement across the 
chest is needed. Mark this, and let it remain until the 
third measurement is taken, which, as before stated, 
consists of two — tlic first, directlv in front, from the 



117 




PLATE I. 
M0DER2S' SHIRT — FRONT BREADTH. 



118 

base of the neck, C, to the waist, D ; tlie second, from 
the shoulder at the neck, E, to a corresponding point, 
F, of the waist, Now, hollow from the base of the 
neck. C, to the shoulder, E. Bj hollowing in this 
manner, a sure lit at the neck will be gained, and the 
bosom can never bulge or wrinkle. 

145-SHOULDER MEASUREMENT. 

NEXT, obtain the shoulder measurement. Measure 
from tlie point, E, Plate I, where tlie shoulder 
joins the neck, to the tip of tlie slionlder, G. This 
should be carefully taken ; for no shirt will set well if 
it be too long on the shoulder. Kow, cut the armhole 
from the tip of the shoulder, G, to the point, B, of the 
chest measure, by hollowing gradually until cut in to 
the point, B. As this is but half of the front of the 
armhole, hollow the other half outward until tlie joint, 
H, under the arm, is reached, two inches fi.rthei- out 
than the point, B. Shape the body of the sliin by 
hollowing it as represented in Plate I. The front 
breadth of the shirt is now cut, and is ready lor the 
bosom. 



T 



146.-THE SHIELD EOSOM. 

HE bosom may be home-made or bought ready-- 
made, at will, and may be of any style of plaits 



119 
fancied. It should always be lined with heavy white 
drilling, or, if muslin be used, with three folds. The 
drilling, however, is always the best. Tlie bosom 
should be set on over the muslin of the shirt, leaving 
the muslin for an extra lining- Too great paiiii- cannot 
be taken to have the bosom well lined ; for it protects 
the linen from cracking or breaking, the linen can be 
starched stiffer, and a liner gloss may be imparted. Care 
must also be taken to set the bosom on straight. This 
object is easily attained by creasing the bosom length- 
wise in the centre, likewise the front of the shirt, and 
then basting in the bosom, placing crease to crease. 
The bosom should be stitched on with a double row of 
stitching, about half an inch apart. It is customary to 
attach to the base of the bosom, in the centre, a pointed 
bit of cloth, double — the tongue, K, Plate I — which h 
provided with a buttonhole, corresponding to the but- 
ton in the waistband of the drawers, ar\d is designed 
to keep the shirt bosom well in its place when worn. 
Stitch a small band on the edge of the bosom to con- 
ceal the edge. Finish the bottom of the breadth with 
a small hem, and then three small eyelets worked in 
the bosom completes the front breadth. 



130 




PLATE II. 
BACK BEEADTH. 



131 



147.-BACK BREADTH-PLATE II. 

THE back breadth will now bo considered. Fold 
this breadth lenthwise in the centre, and cut the 
back opening, A to B, about eight or ten inches in 
length. To prevent the shirt from gaping at the back, 
lay a wide hem on the left side. In this hem the but- 
tonholes are worked. Face the other side of the open- 
ing with a strip of muslin about an inch wide, and sew 
the buttons on this facing, which is much better than 
a hem for firmly holding the buttons. Lay the hem 
over upon the facing, and fasten them together, M'ith a 
double row of stitching, at the bottom. 

Previous to shaping the armholes of the back, it is 
always best to sew on the yoke. Gather the back on 
each side. Lay the gathers neatly, making the gath- 
ered spaces correspond on each side, and fasten with 
thread. The back breadth is now ready for the yoke. 



148.-THE YOKE. 

THE yoke is cut as in Plate III, which represents 
one-half of it, laying as it should be cut upon the 
material. For an exact fit of the yoke, take its mea&- 



133 



nremcnt nnroc-, t-;c hnr-k from one shoulder to the 

B A other, from C to D, Plate 

II. Oiiij one-hiili" of thid 
incabureinent is rc(|uired, 
us the joke is cut in four 
pieces, two pieces being 
for the lining. Make the 
shoulder of the yoke, A— ■ 
B, Plato III, the same 
length as the shoulder of 
the front breadth (14.5). In depth, the joke may be 
of any length desired. Hollow the neck a little from 
A to C. Cut in this manner, the yoke will have an 
excellent fit. 




PLATE III. 

HALF OF YOKE. 



149.-J0INING THE BREADTHS. 



^"OW sew the shoulder of the two breadths together, 
M and hollow the armholes of the back to corre- 
spond with those of the front. The armholcs of the 
back, however, need not be hollowed so deep as those 
of the front ; ibr the fit of the shirt is not at all aflected 
whether the back be cut narrow or wide. Shape tlie 
body of the back under the arms as represented in 
Plate II. Finish the yoke with buttons and bntton- 
holes. Now seam up the sides, leaving them open 



133 

about four inches at the bottom. It will be found 
useful to put in small gussets at the points where the 
side seams begin to be open. 

150.-NECK BAND. 

AS the neck has been already cut out, ascertain if it 
be correct by applying the neck measurement, 
which was taken the exact size of the neck in the 
smallest part, and an inch over the measurement al- 
lowed. The neck is now finished with the binding, 
made to be about an inch wide, and upon which are 
sewed the buttons to hold the collar in place. After 
being doubled, the binding should be hollowed in front 
to a half-inch, the hollow beginning at a point corre- 
sponding to the point where the liollowed part of the 
bosom begins. Run the cut parts in a small seam on 
the wrong side, turn the band on the right side and 
stitch it on the upper edge. After this has been done, 
the band is basted on the shirt and stitched. The 
body of the shirt is now finished. In taking the fore- 
going measurements and applying them, the Plates 
representing each piece will be found of great as- 
sistance. 

151.-SLEEVES. 

THE sleeves are cut in the manner following : Lay 
upon the lap-board or work-table the five-eighths 



124 




D E F 

PLATE IV. 
FOLDING OF SLEEVE. 



Q A 




PLATE V. 

FOLDING OF SLEEVE. 



135 

of a yard of material reserved for this purpose, and 
fold over eaeh side to meet in the centre, the material 
being folded in such a hianner that the cut edges \vill 
be represented by the letters A, Bj C and D, E, F, 
Plate TV, and the selvages meet in the line 13, E. The 
two sleeves, each five-eighths in length and onc-liulf or' 
the width of the material in Ijreadth, are now lying 
upon the work-table, but not cut apart, and the first 
care is to unite them still more by basting togetlier the 
two selvages and securing that seam well in its place, 
as represented in Plate IV, by pins at the top and 
bottom. Tlius prepared, fold it diagomilly, as repre- 
sented in Plate V, the selvages meeting from the point, 
B, downward. Cut from G to H, and sew together 
each portion of the basted selvages. The sleeves, each 
with its gore, are now ready. Before being sewed up, 
however, they should be gathered at the lower edge, 
and about an inch left plain at each end near the open- 
ing. This opening at the bottom of the sleeve should 
be about three inches in length. Face its upper side 
with a strip of muslin about an inch wide, pointed at 
the top and stitched on both sides. Face the otlier side in 
a like manner. The sleeve will thus have a nice finish. 

152.-CUFFS. 

NEXT in order are the culfs. The measurement of 
the wrist is taken loosely, and the cuff is cut 



126 

about four inches in depth, and i-on:i.lo 1 at the corners. 
It should be composed ol" linen and lined with two 
folds of heavy white drilling (1-16). Seam the linen 
and lining together on the wrong side; then turn on 
the rightj and finisli around the edge witii two rows of 
stitchins;. Baste the cuif on the sleeve, sewing the 
gathers down on the inside and basting the linen on 
the top, and the wliole will then be ready for stitching. 



153.-INSERTING THE SLEEVES. 



THE bottom of the sleeve being thus finished, sew- 
up the sleeve and prepare the 
top. Usually the top of the sleeve 
should be about the same size as the 
armliole into which it is to be fitted. 
It may be larger, and then gathered a 
little on the top, which plan is preferred 
by some. On no account, however, 
should it be smaller. In basting in 
the sleeve, place its seam upon the 
seam of the shirt, bringing the gore 
on the back. Stitch the sleeve in plate VI 
with a wide hem, and stitch it down sleeve finished. 
a second time. If the sleeve be too short, a facing 




12 



around tlie armholc may be made. The cuffs are pro- 
vided with buttons 
and buttonholes, 
and also with but- 
loles for the sleeve- 
tons. 
The shirt of modern 
le is now complete. 




154-SHIRTS OPENING IN FRONT. 



ALTHOUGH the modern shirt with shield-shape 
bosom, will wear a much longer time without be- 
coming wrinkled, and is far easier to iron and gloss, it 
is not liked, however, by some gentlemen. Elderly 
gentlemen, especially, and working men, prefer the old 
style, with the bosom opening in front. For such, de- 
signs are also given. The plan of cutting and making 
a workino; shirt, the bosom of which is usually made 
of the same jnaterial as the rest of the shirt, will be 
first considered, as the same plan, with slight varia- 
tions, is applicable to the fine shirt of an elderly gen- 
tleman, the cutting and making of whicli can be after- 
ward more readily explained. In the description of 
both these styles of shirts, many of the details of shirt- 



128 
making are omitted, for the reason that they have been 
so fully presented in the oonsideration of the modern 
shirt that repetition is useless. In all cases of perplex- 
ity, therefore, a lady is referred to tlie first part of the 
present chapter. Only the points of diflference are 
given in the styles following. 

155.-W0RKING SHIRT. 

AVV ORKING shirt may be made of either coarse or 
fine material, and the measurements required are 
the same as those for the modern shirt (l-i2). Double 
the material and cut the two breadths apart. First, 
prepare the front breadth by beginning with the 
bosom. For this purpose, cut a slit, A B, Plate YIII, 
down directly in the middle, beginning at the top of 
the breadth and making the slit the length indicated 
by the second measurement of the bosom (142). From 
the bottom of the slit, then cut across on each side the 
transverse slits, B C and B D, leaving uncut on the 
outside a space of six or eight inches. The edges of 
the slit, A B, are now to be turned down and hemmed, 
the hem being about an inch in width. On the hem 
of the right side the buttons Mill later be sewed, Mhile 
in that of the left, E, which is to be stitched as indi- 
cated by the dotted lines, the buttonholes will be 
worked. Then make two or three plaits at each side 



139 




PLATE VIIL 
FRONT BREADTH. 



130 
of the hem, and hold them in their place by basting 
threads at the top and bottom. The plaits are repre- 
sented in Plate VIII by the letters F and G on the left 
side, the right half being left in course of preparation 
in order that the explanation may be clearer. After 
the plaits are thus prepared on both sides, lay the 
hems evenly one over the other, and secure them in 
this position, with pins or with stitches at the top and 
bottom, until the neck has been hollowed out. This 
last cannot be done until the back and front breadths 
have been joined together. Now, gather the lower 
edge of the transverse slit, C D, laying and fastening 
the gathers so as to make the gathered space of the 
same length as the breadth of the shirt bosom. Two 
little strips about an inch wide are next prepared to 
cover the gathering. Turn over the edges of each 
strip, and baste one strip upon the outside of the shirt, 
half upon the bosom and half upon the gathering. 
Secure this band in its place by a row of stitches across 
each edge. The other strip is then basted on the 
wrong side of the shirt in a corresponding position, and 
hemmed down all around. The lower edge of the 
breadth is finished with a narroM' hem. 



T 



156.-BACK BREADTH. 

^HE back breadth is next prepared. First, gather 
the upper edge, A to B, Plate IX, straight across, 



181 




PLATE IX. 

BACK BREADTH. 



138 

leaving six or eight inches plain on each side. Then 
lay the gathers and fasten them, making the gathered 
space to correspond with the width of the shirt bosom. 
Hem the lower edge of the breadth to match tlie front. 
!Now, prepare the yoke. 



157-THE YOKE. 

THE yoke of the working shirt is put on above the 
gathers at the back, and is cut by the same meas- 
urement and on the same plan as the yoke of the 
modern shirt. In Plate III (148), half of the yoke is 
represented laying upon the material as it should be 
cut. For this yoke four pieces just alike are required, 
and tliey should be seamed in the centre. The yoke, 
however, is much preferable made whole. In that 
case, double the material before cutting, and thus the 
seam in the centre will be avoided. Baste the yoke 
upon the gathers, and stitch them together. 



158-JOINING THE BREADTHS. 

THE two breadths of the shirt are now ready to be 
joined together, which is done by basting the 
shoulder of the yoke, from the neck to the shoulder 



133 

tip, upon similar parts of the front. After shaping the 
body of the breadths as represented in Phites VIII and 
IX, fell up under the arms, leaving an opening at the 
bottom about four inches in length. A\ hen the two 
breadths of the shirt are thus joined together, hollow 
the garment out in the neck from I, the bate of the 
neck, to H, Plate VIII, the point where tlie shoulder 
joins the neek — the points I and IT being given by 
the two measurements of the bosom (142), The neck 
is now ready for the binding, as it has already been cut 
out m the back. Finish the band with buttons and 
buttonholes. Prepare the sleeves as in (151), and the 
working shirt will be completed. 

15a-ELDERLY GENTLEMAN'S SHIRT. 

IN the working shirt, the garment has been consid- 
_ ered made of the same material tliroughont. but in 
the case of fin.e shirts opening in froiit. the bosom and 
cuffs are usually made of linen or percale, whichever 
may be fancied. With, the exception of variations in 
inserting the bosom, the elderly gentleman's shirt is 
cut and made, in all respects, similar to the working 
shirt. The bosom is inserted as follows : 



H 



160.-THE BOSOM, 

AVING cut the required length, A to B, Plate 
YIII, remove the whole portion, H, 0, D, Kj 



134 

whicli, in the working shirt, was made into plaits, and 
use instead a lengtli of linen or percale equal to the 
length cut away. Iletain the whole breadth of the 
linen to use, if needed, in forming the plaits. Thit^ 
breadth, divided in the centre, gives the two halves cf 
the bosom. The hems and plaits are formed in a man- 
ner similar to those of the working shirt, and the two 
halves are then stitched in tlioir proper places, the 
stitching beginning at jtlie top at each side. It is more 
desirable to line the bosom, as any bosom will always 
last longer, better retain the starch, and is susceptible 
of a finer gloss, if well lined. In the case of lining 
the bosoir, cut the fqont breadth similar to the Iront of 
the working shirt (155). Cut the front down in the 
centre the same length as the bosom ; baste on the 
bosom, letting the muslin of the shirt serve us an ex- 
tra lining, and then stitch the bosom on v>ith a double 
row of stitching. The under lining may be left loose 
or caught to the plaits, at will. Finish the shirt in the 
same manner as the working shirt. 



161.-T0 STRENGTHEN THE BOSOM. 



TO strengthen the bosom in the part i:;ott likely to 
wear, it is a good plan to put a false liem under- 
neath the left hand hem, and in this false hem to work 



135 

the buttonholes. It must, of course, be a little nar- 
rower, so as to be entirely out of sight when the gar- 
ment is worn. If preferred, the hem of the shirt itself 
may be a little narrower and receive the buttonholes. 
A strip of muslin stitched on the outside wholly con- 
ceals it, and represents the hem. In either case, any 
repairs of the buttonholes are concealed, or the whole 
strip may be removed with but little trouble. 



162.-COLLARS. 



FOR further instruction in the art of shirt-makings 
the construction of the collar will now be ex^ 
plained. Originally, the collar was a part of the bhirt 
itself; but, of late years, it has assumed an indepen 
dent existence. It would appear, judging from the 
ever-increasing variety of new names applied to this 
article, that the varieties of collars must be endless. 
All may be reduced, however, to tliree original types, 
the many varieties being simply differences of height, 
or of the contour of the edge. These three styles are : 
the standing collar, the turn-down collar, and the col- 
lar divided in the back. 



13G 




PLATE X. 
BTANbiNO COLLAR?. 




PLATE XI. 
TCEN-DOWN COLLAR. 



137 



163.-C0NSTRUCTI0N OF COLLARS. 

ALL collars should be made Ibtir-ply, as, by this 
means, they retain stilTneos mnch longer, and can 
be more elegantly laundried. In all of the many va- 
rieties, a binding is required, which should be cut a lit- 
tle longer than the neck band of the shirt, and be pro- 
vided with buttonholes corresponding to the buttons on 
the neck band. For this binding, prepare two strips 
about an inch wide, and cut them sloping towards the 
extremities. The collar proper should also be hollowed 
out a little, as represented in Plates X and XI, some- 
what more for a turn-down than for a standing collar. 
The collar divided in the back is cut in four pieces, and 
put together so that one-half overlaps the other. 

Cuffs of every size and shape are also mad^ separate 
from the shirt. In tliis case the wrist band should be 
made two inches wide, and the cuffs should be provided 
with buttonholes for the sleeve-buttons, and with addi- 
tional buttonholes by which to attach them to the 
buttons of the wrist band. 






' — ^ ^ 



-^-r— t^JJ^^p^'^— ^-^ 



THE CHEMICAL 

LAUNDRY GUIDE, 



I*^%^I^a^ II. 






)?jrQj^"^ 



CHAPTER VIIL 



t64.-PRINTED GOODS OF DELICATE 
COLORS. 

No dress is more becoming to a lady than the bright 
and glossy print or percale, when it is new. The 
soft shades and delicate colors are charming. In how 
fchort a time, however, is the lustre gone and the dress 
faded and dingy through careless washing 

The methods by which the gloss and blight 
colors of any materinl may l)e preserved arc; ca?y 
to follow. To be sure, more time and atten- 
tion will be required than the usual sliglit that is given 
this class of goods, but the result will more than com- 
pensate for the extra labor. As well might a lady hope 
for "good luck" with a cocoauut cake baked in the 
unwashed pan in which onions have been cooked, as to 
expect delicate prints to look nice washed in the dirty 
water through which the general washing has passed. 



140 

The best way is not to do np articles of delicate color 
on the day of the general washing, but to give them a 
morning by themselves. Undertake them only in clear, 
bright weather. 

The methods presented in this chapter are applicable 
to colored goods of various materials^ — percales, piques, 
chintzes, cambrics, nierinoes, prints, lamas, mousse-de- 
laines, ginghams, lawns, printed muslins, alpacas, bom- 
bazines, bombazets, book muslins, &c. 

In the methods presented for the treatment of vari- 
ous colored goods, it is supposed that the articles are 
delicate and of some value. It would be needless, of 
course, to take such pains with old and dingy calicoes. 
In doing up new and choice goods, however, it will 
certainly pay to preserve the new apjjearance and 
briirht colors. 



165.-GENERAL HINTS FOR WASHING 
COLORED GOODS. 

COLOEED articles before they are put into water 
should have every grease spot extracted, as the 
spots cannot be very well seen when the whole of the 
garment is wet. 

No soap is necessary for calicoes, unless they are very 
dirty. In that case make a strong milk-warm lather 



141 

and immerse the article in it, instead of rubbing soap 
on the material. 

Soft soap should never bo used I'or printed goods, ex- 
cept the various shades of yellow, which look the best 
washed with soft soap and not rinsed in fair water. 
Other colors should be rinsed in fair water. 

Never vv ash colored articles in hot soap-suds ; that 
which is milky-warm will answer quite as well, and will 
not extract the colors so much. 

Never boil or scald colored goods, nor allow tliom to 
freeze, as the colors will be irreparably injured. 

Always dry tliis class of goods in tlie shade, or, if 
the weather be wet, dry them by the fire. Tlie best 
prints will fade if hung in the sunshine. 

Colored articles should not be allowed to lie m water 
long, but should be w-ashed fast, always using as much 
expedition as possible. 

166~GENERAL HINTS FOR IRONING 
COLORED GOODS. 

A GREAT deal of care is often taken in washing 
goods of delicate colors, but their color and 
appearance afterward are injured by careless ironing. 
If the following hints be always observed, the injury 
in ironing will be avoided : 



143 

As soon as tlicy are dry enongli, iron them immedi- 
ately. Do not allow thorn to lie damp over night, nor 
sprinkle them. These j)recautions will protect the 
goods from getting spotted. 

Do not smooth them with a hot sad-iron. Pink and 
green colors, althoiigli they may withstand the wash- 
ing, are quite liable to change as soon as a hot iron is 
applied to them, the pink turning purple, and the 
green blue, 

L'sually it is best to iron on the wrong side, but, if it 
be desirable to iron on tlie right side, use an iron only 
moderately warm. An excellent plan is to place a 
piece of muslin between the material and the iron. 



167.-TO SET VARIOUS COLORS. 

OXE of the chief difficulties to be overcome in 
washing fine colored articles is the tendency of the 
colors to mix or run together. The permanence of al- 
most any colored fabric— silk, woolen, or cotton — may 
be preserved in washing by previously soaking them 
for some time in Mater, to every gallon of which has 
been added a teaspoonful of Ox Gall. This will effec- 
tually keep the colors from running. Colors are also 
preserved l>y washing the goods in luke-warm Qx Gall 
water, in the proportion of a teacupful of Gall to four 



143 



gallons of water. The Gall should be well mixed 
with the water. 



168-TO PRESERVE OX GALL 

IT is a good policy to have a bottle of Beef or Ox 
Gall oonstantly in the ho'ise. It is ro often con- 
venient, and can be bought of the butchers at a trifle. 
It may be kept for several months by pressing it out 
of the skin in which it is enclosed, adding Salt to it, 
and preserving it in bottles, tightly corked. Ox Gall 
is a delicate and excellent cleansing agent. It is a 
liquid soda soap. It is not so good, however, for the 
purity of white articles, as it has a greenish tinge. 



169.-AGENTS FOR SPECIAL COLORS. 

THE following substances are remarkably success- 
ful for preserving special colors, and should al- 
ways be used whenever such colors are washed. 

A teacupful of Lye in a pailful of water, will im- 
prove the color of blacks when it is necessary to wash 
them. 

A spoonful of clear Vinegar in the rinsing water 
of pink, red, or green colors, will brighten and keep 



144 



tliem from mixing. Soda answers the same purpose 
for purples and blues. 

The "Broke-Water'' of ('51,) is excellent for bright- 
ening mixed colors and keeping them from running. 



170 -TO RENDER THE COLORS OF NEW 
GOODS PERMANENT, 

IF new goods, before they arc ever washed, are sub- 
jected to the treatment afforded by this method, 
their colors will be permanently set, and but little 
attention need be given them in the future. Di;-'solve 
three gills of Salt in four (piarts of boiling water. 
Put the nev\r goods in the solution while it is hot, and 
let them remain until it becomes cold. By this means, 
their colors v\ ill be rendered permanent, and will be 
less likely to fade in subsequent washings. 

171.-WASHING GOODS OF DELICATE 
COLORS. 

COLORED articles of various materials, printed 
calicoes, cambrics, chintzes, ginghams, merinoes, 
alpacas, mousse-de-laines, lamas, bombazines, percales, 



145 

piques, &e., require nearly the same method in wash- 
ing, and are treated as follows : 

Turn the inner side of the dresses out. Use water 
that is only lake-warm, and make a strong lather of 
white soap before putting in the dresses, but do not 
allow soap itself to come in contact with the material. 
Wash them through successive lathers, until the last 
lather does not liave a dirty appearance. Do not allow 
them to remain long; in the water, but wash them as 
fast as possible ; and then rinse quickly through two 
clear cold waters. Dry in the shade. Have the sad- 
irons ready heated, and while the articles are still a 
little damp, or just dry enough to iron, bring them in 
and iron at once. Never sprinkle and roll them in 
coverings till next day. If it is not convenient to 
iron immediately, let them hang till quite dry, then on 
the following day, slightly moisten and fold them a 
quarter of an hour before ironing. Either iron them 
on the wrong side, or place a piece of muslin between 
the goods and the iron. In this method the directions 
are general and apply to any colored material, but 
nothing has been said about setting the colors and 
keeping them from running. For this purpose various 
colors require different ingredients, both in the wash- 
ing and rinsing waters, and the subject is fully con- 
sidered in methods (167) and (169.) If a slip be 



146 



obtained from the store for testing the durability of 
its colors, give it a fair trial by this method. 



172.-0RIENTAL METHOD OF WASHING 
BRIGHT COLORS. 

IN the countries of the East very dashing and bright 
colors are in vogue, and Americans are indebted 
to the Oriental ladies for this skillful method of doing 
up bright colors. Its chief advantage is, tliat no soap 
is used, and the lustre of the goods as well as the color 
is preserved. 

Boil two pounds of Rice in two gallons of water for 
tliree hours, or until the Rice becomes soft. After 
which, pour tlie whole into a tub and let it stand to 
cool until about luke-warm. Then place in the articles 
and wash them till the dirt appears to be out, using 
the Rice in place of soap. Next make another prepa- 
ration of Rice and water in the same quantity as above, 
but this time, strain the Rice from the water. Save 
the strained water to riii^e with, and mix the pulp 
with w^arm water. Wasli the goods through the latter 
till quite clean, and then rinse them in the water in 
which the Rice was boiled. This rinse water answers 
in place of starch, and the articles will keep nicely 



147 

stiff when they are worn. Even dew will not affect 
them. A dress shonld be taken apart and hung as 
smoothly as possible to dry. When dry, do not use an 
iron, as it is liable to scorch; but rub it with a smooth, 
round, glass bottle, tilled with hot water. ]t is. the 
best plan to buil the Rice on the previous day and 
merely v/arin it the next morning, as then the washing 
can qn:cl<'y i)roceed. On no account allow the goods 
to lie da: lip, even for an hour, or the colors will run. 
Complete the whole operation at once. The brightest 
and most delicate goods of any material can be treated 
according to this method with the most pleasing 
success. 



173.-FRENCH METHOD OF WASHING 
PIQUES AND PERCALES. 

THE French method of washing piques and per 
cales has always afforded very gratifying results. 
Prepare some rather warm, but not hot, lather of soft 
water and the best white soap. Wash the dresses 
through this lather, one at a time, but do not soak 
them. As soon as the first lather looks soiled, squeeze 
the dress from it, and at once wash it again through a 
fresh lather. When thoroughly clean, rinse in pure 



148 

cold water, and lastly in water slightly blued. Squeeze, 
but not wring, the water completely from the dress, 
and hang it in a shady place to dry. The general 
hints (166) will give the proper way to iron piques and 
percales. 

174.-TO BLEACH FADED ARTICLES. 

MAjSTY colored articles of the choicer kinds of 
material when too badly faded to be presentable, 
can be bleached and then worn or else used for other 
purposes. 

Wash the articles well in very strong hot soap- 
suds, and then boil it until the color seems to be gone 
Again wash and rinse it, and dry it in the heat of the 
sun. If still not quite white, repeat the boiling. At 
this stage of the process, the goods may be subjected 
to the action of the Laundry " Bleach," (38), or treated 
according to the German Method of Bleaching White 
Goods, (40), and a clear and brilliant white will be the 
result. 

175.-TREATMENT OF CHOICE TABLE- 
COVERS. 

BRIGHT table-covers of cotton and worsted, silk 
and worsted, or printed cloth, can be done up 



149 

easily and will look elegantly by this method. Prepare 
a soap liquid, by dissolving one bar of mottled soap and 
one pound of Pearlash in four gallons of scalding water. 
Have ready three tubs, and put in the lirst, one pailful 
of cold water and three gallons of soap liquid, in the 
second, one pailful of cold water and two gallons of 
soap liquid, and in the third, two pailfuls of cold water 
and one gallon of soap liquid. In another tub, prepare 
a rinsing water of six pailfuls of cold water with a 
tablespoonful of Oil of Vitriol in it. If it be a cotton 
and worsted cover, wash it through the three soap 
waters, rinse it through the Vitriol water for live 
minutes, and lastly rinse it out of clear cold water. 
Fold it smoothly, and without wringing, hang it up 
to drain dry. 

For a silk and worsted cover, use the three soap 
waters and rub it well, but instead of the Vitriol 
water, rinse the cloth well in two pailfuls of water in 
which have been dissolved two pounds of common 
Salt. Einse through two cold waters after the salted 
one, and hang the table-cover to dry in a warm room. 

Wash a printed cloth through the three soap waters, 
rinse through two cold waters, with a tablespoonful of 
Oil of Vitriol in each, and then rinse through one 
clear cold water. 

If a variety of table covers of different mixtures are 
to be washed, they may each be passed through the 



150 

same soap waters, but use for each their own rinsing 
water. Always fold, drain, and dry quickly in a warm 
room, so the colors will not run into one another. To 
iron table covers, lay them under a damp sheet and 
press with a heavy sad-iron. 




CHAPTER IX. 



176.-W00LENS AND FLANNELS. 

IX doing up fine "woolen articles, a little extra care 
will preserve their new, bright appearance and soft 
glossy finish. In a few details, articles of wool recpiire 
a treatment in wasliing, diflercnt from goods of other 
material. The fibers aie arranged differently, and are 
of a chemical composition, unlike the fibers of either 
cotton, linen, or silk. Examined under the microscope, 
wool fibers are found not to lay straight and regular, 
like those of cotton and linen, but on the contrary, are 
intricately interwoven and twisted around each other. 
Hence the peculiar laundry treatment these articles re- 
quire. The process of rubbing, which may be applied 
to cotton and linen without injury, knots the fibers of 
the wool together and causes a thicking of the fabric, 
and consequently, a shrinking in its dimensions. In 
the case of woolens, therefore, rubbing should never bo 
employed. Sluicing the article up and down in the 
water is the proper cleansing treatment. 



152 

"Wringing also twists wool fibers out of place and 
canses fulling. The water should be pressed or 
squeezed out. Such is the chemical composition of 
wool, that soap coming in direct contact with the ma- 
terial, renders it harsh ; and for this reason, woolens 
should always be washed in hot suds only, without 
Soda or washing crystals. 

The temperature of the water in which flannels are 
immersed, is also a matter of importance. It should be 
neither cold nor scalding hot, and yet it should be as 
hot as the hand can bear. The several waters through 
which Avoolen articles pass — washing, rinsing, and 
blueing waters, should all be of the same temperature. 
If these peculiar demands of woolens and flannels are 
regarded when they are laundried, the results will be, 
they will not shrink, and the softness and original lustre 
will be preserved. 

177.-TO REMOVE GREASE FROM 
WOOLENS AND FLANNELS. 

PLACE underneath the article to be cleansed, a sheet 
of blotting paper or a woolen cloth; then rub the 
spot with some pure Benzoin, and the grease and dirt 
will disappear as if by magic. Be sure to place the 
blotting paper or the cloth, underneath the garment to 



153 
be operated upon, otherwise, a circular stain will be left, 
very difficult of removal. The Benzoin drives the 
grease through the fabric, and it is absorbed by the pa- 
])er placed underneath. After the spot is removed, 
still continue to rub till all the Benzoin evaporates. 
This must be done, or the Benzoin itself will leave a 
stain. Care should be taken in handling Benzoin 
(213). 

178-SPIRITS OF AMMONIA. 

ANOTHER successfal way of removing grease from 
woolen articles is, to rub the spot with a piece of 
flannel or a sponge moistened with Spirits of Ammonia. 
This method is especially adapted to cases where the 
grease has been long in the fabric. This alkali is the 
most effective agent known iV)r removing grease from 
woolens. It unites with the grease to form a soap, 
which readily washes out with a little water. 

179.-BLACK STAINS ON SCARLET 
WOOLEN GOODS. 

PERSPIPvATION generally leaves black stains up- 
on red flannel, but the dark spots may be removed 
as follows: Mix Tartaric Acid with water, until the 
water acquires a pleasant taste. Then saturate the 



154 

black spots with the acidulated water, taking care 
not to have it touch the clean part of the garment. 
Rinse the spot immediately in fair water. Weak Pearl- 
ash water is excellent to remove stains produced by 
acids. The Pearlash water should not be made so 
strong as to injure the fabric. 



180-SHRINKING FLANNELS. 

PREVIOUS to making up flannel articles, it is well 
to shrink the material. The articles are then not 
so liable to shrink, nor will they require much attention 
in future washings. Soak the flannels first in cold hard 
water, and then in hot soft w^ater. Then, without 
wringing, hang them up to drain dry. This process 
will shrink flannel so thoroughly, that it is not apt to 
full in subsequent washings. 



181 -WHITE WOOLENS, 

IF it be desired to keep white woolens from shrinking 
when washed, do not rub soap upon them, but make 
a good suds of hard soap, and wash the flannels in it. 
Wash them in a second suds; and then place them in 
a clean tub, and pour over suflBcient warm water to 



155 

cover them, and allow them to remain nntil the water 
becomes cold. A little Indigo in the; warm water will 
give the woolens a brighter appearance. If it is desired 
to have the flannels shrink so as to make them thick, 
wash them in soft-soap suds, and then rinse them in 
cold water. 



182.-COLORED WOOLENS. 

WOOLENS of plain or variegated colors, have a 
strong tendency to fade in washing, and the col- 
ors are quite apt to mix. This difficulty may be guard- 
ed against, by immersing thcin in warm water con- 
taining a small quantity of Beef Gall, before permitting 
soap-suds to come in contact with them. A tablespoon- 
ful of Gall to a gallon of water, is about the right pro- 
portion to use (167). 



183-HOT SUDS FOR FLANNELS. 

To keep fine flannels soft and bright, they should be 
washed in clean hot suds. They will have a clear- 
er and brighter appearance, if the suds be colored with 
a little blueing. They will be softer, if they are hung 



156 

out directly from the Buds, without being rinsed. Wool- 
ens of all kinds will be improved, if washed in rather 
hot suds. 

184.-METH0D OF WASHING CHOICE 
WOOLENS AND FLANNELS. 

PRIOR to washing, beat out of the articles any dust 
or mud adhering to them. Prepare some hot suds 
by cutting into slices good white soap, and boiling it in 
soft water. Do not use the suds boiling hot, but let it 
bo as hot as tlie hand can bear, when the articles are 
put in. The woolens should not be rubbed with soap, 
nor sliould the material itself be rubbed. Sluice the 
article up and down in plenty of suds. In this manner, 
pass them through a suds several times, every time 
changing the suds, until they are perfectly clean; and 
tlicn instead of wringing, squeeze out the suds water. 
Patent clothes wringers are a vast improvement upon 
h:ind labor, for this purpose, as without injury to the 
f ibr.ic, tliey press out the water so thoroughly, that the 
articles dry in considerable less time than after the most 
tliorough hand ^'ringing. After rinsing, squeeze out 
the water and dry in the open air, if the weather will 
admit of the articles drying quickly; otherwise, dry in 
a warm room, but avoid too close proximity to the fire. 



187 



185.-IR0NING FLANNELS. 

FINE flannel and woolen articles, which are desired 
to be particularly nice, may bo made as soft, glossy 
and fuzzy as when they were new, provided the surface 
over which they are ironed is very soft, and provided 
a piece of damp cloth is laid over them, and tliis cloth 
pressed until it becomes dry. The iron should never 
come in direct contact with the woolen, as it will press 
down the nap so tightly, that the goods will have that 
old appearance that nearly always marks them when 
they have been once washed. This method of ironing 
is especially adapted to smoothing red flannels. 



186.-W0OLEN BLANKETS. 



INSTEAD of ironing large woolen blankets, it is an 
easier and better plan to treat them in the manner 
following: While they are just a trifle damp, fold them 
p large folds, and place them between two boards or 
table-leaves, and lay on the top a heavy weight. Let 
them remain in this position, until they are dry. This 
plan smoothes them better than the sad-iron. 



158 

187~SC0TCH METHOD OF WASHING 
WOOLEN SHAWLS. 

SCOTCH laundresses tire noted for their skill in doing 
up fine plaid shawls, and the method they use is the 
following: Scrape finely, a pound of soap, and boil it 
down in sulHcient water. As it cools, beat it with the 
hands till it becomes a sort of jelly. Then add three 
tablespoonfuls of Spirits of Turpentine, and one of Am- 
monia. Wash the shawl well in this mixture. Rinse 
in cold water, until all the soap is dissolved away, and 
then rinse in salt water. Fold it between two sheets, 
taking care not to allow two folds of the shawl ti^j lie 
together. Use the salt in the rinsing water, in the ease 
of bright colors only that are liable to run. In ironing 
them, place a piece of muslin between tlie shawl and 
the iron. Washed according to this method, plaid 
shawls will look as bright as new. 

188.-T0 CLEAN WOOLEN CLOTHES. 

THIS is one of the best methods known for scouring 
woolen clothes. Mix half an ounce of Sulphuric 
Ether and half an ounce of Aqua Ammonia, with three 
ounces of soft water. Eub the article well with a 
sponge, frequently wetting the sponge in this mixture, 



159 

until the dirt is removed. Then sponge with clean 
water. Next, lay over the article a coarse towel, which 
has been saturated with water and wrung out, and 
press the towel with a hot iron. While the steam is 
yet rising from the clotli, brush it down with a clothes 
brush ; and the article will have a decidedly new ap- 
pearance. 

189.-T0 WASH RED FLANNELS. 

FLANNELS of the brightest red or scarlet, when 
soiled, can be washed by these directions, and they 
will never lose their color. Mix a handful of Flour 
and a quart of cold water together, and boil them for 
ten minutes. Add this to some warm suds, and wash 
the flannel gently, rinsing rather than rubbing it. Then 
rinse it through three or four warm waters. Soft, or 
Olive soap should be used for woolens, in preference to 
hard soap. 

190.-TO PRODUCE A BEAUTIFUL 
WHITE ON FLANNELS. 

FLANNEL turned yellow by age, may be whitened 
by soaking it for some time in a solution of hard 
soap, to which strong Ammonia has been added, and then 
drying in the sunshine. This is the process which man- 



160 

ufactures employ for bleaching flannels, and the pro- 
portions the}' use are, one and a half pounds of hard 
Boap, fifty pounds of salt water, and one and two-thirds 
pounds of strong Ammonia. For home use, the same 
proportions may be used, but reduced to suit the quan- 
tity of material to be bleached. 

191.-A QUICK METHOD OF BLEACHING 
FLANNEL, 

A BEAUTIFUL white may be reproduced on flan- 
nels turned yellow by age, in a shorter time than 
that required hy the previous method. 

Soak the flannel for a quarter of an hour in a dilute 
solution of Bisulphate of Soda, to which has been 
added, under constant stirring, a little dilute Hydro- 
chloric acid. Keep a cover over the vessel containing 
the solution. After soaking the goods the allotted 
time, rinse them thoroughly in rather liot water. This 
last method is very speedy. 

192 -TO RESTORE THE GLOSSY FINISH. 

THE glossy finish of woolen goods is always re- 
moved by washing, but it may be restored by the 
accompanying plan. Brush over the cloth the way of 



161 

the nap, with a brush dipped in very weak gum water, 
(28). Lay over it a sheet of paper or a piece of muslin, 
and pLaee it under a weight or in a screw press until 
dry. This treatment is valuable for restoring the dull 
spot often left after washing out a stain. Of course, 
if the woolen articles are old and dingy, nothing could 
restore the original linish, but w^ith new goods this 
method is successful. 

193 -TO WHITEN FLANNEL OR 
WOOLEN HOSE. 

WET the woolen yarn or hose with weak suds, 
wring it out, and then hang it on sticks or a 
cord stretclied across a barrel, in the bottom of which 
powdered Brimstone or Sulphur is burning. Two 
tablespoonfuls of Brimstone is sufficient. Tlie barrel 
must be tightly covered. If they are not white enough 
by one application, repeat the process. Hang the yarn 
in the open air for a day or so, to remove all odor of 
the Sulphur. Then wash the yarn and rinse it through 
blueing water. Be careful not to let the Sulphur blaze 
or scorch the hose. 

194-LAMBS' WOOL HOSE. 

WOKS TED or lamb's wool stockings or other knit 
articles should never be mended with un- 



163 

Blininken worsted or lamb's wool ; because the latter 
being new it shrinks when washed more than the 
hose, and draws them up till the toes become short 
and narrow and the heel has no shape left. First M'ash 
the new yarn so that it will correspond with the old. 



195.-" TUB-WASHING" AND BLEACH- 
ING WOOL 

IN bleaching wool it is essential to tirst free it from 
its natural grease. The following is the method 
used in large mills, where several tons are always 
cleansed in one scouring. This mill process is termed 
'' tub-washin<Z'.'' It is needless to scour wool when it 
is intended to dye tlie yarn, b'at for nice white yarn, 
tliis process is very valuable. In using the alkaline 
Ives for this purpose, great caution should be exercised; 
for although wool is insoluble in water, it is capable of 
b(Miig dissolved by a strong alkali. Add to the scour- 
ing water enough Soda and Lye to render it alkaline; 
and hoi I it to about 120^ Fahr., at wliich temperature 
add a littU? Aqua Ammonia. Next throw in the wool 
and stir it around witii a stick. After stirring it 
awhile, pick up a small portion of the wool on the 
point of the stick and ascertain whether the wool be 



163 

sufRcientlj clean. When well scoured, throw it npon 
a sieve and let it drain. Then place it where the snn 
will shine oii it hotly, until it is perfectly dry. The 
rays of the sun will bleach it as white as snow. Sul- 
phurous acid gas, or the fumes of burning Sulphur, are 
likewise employed for bleaching wooh 




.-T» 



CHAPTER X. 



196.-REN0VATI0N OF SILKS. 



THE renovation of fine silks and si.ken articles is 
treated at length, because so few people under- 
stand liow to handle this class of goods, or even believe 
that they can be snccessfullj renovated. The costliest 
articles are regarded valueless, as soon as they become 
soiled. Placed in the skillful hands of the French 
Couturiere, however, how readily are they rendered 
bright and new. The methods employed are not ditR- 
eult, they only require ex'act and careful execution. 
The wonderful changes wliich silk undergoes, from the 
Time when the silk-worm spins its delicate cocoon, 
until the skill of man weaves it into costly and delicate 
articles, are indeed marvelous. It is no wonder that 
tlie renovation of silk is a nice operation. 



165 



197-TO REMOVE GREASE SPOTS 
FROM SILKS. 

To accomplish this without injury to tlie color of 
the silk is some times easy, but more frequently 
very difficult. It is rarely ever impossible, however, 
if the proper means are employed. Much may de- 
pend upon skillful and persevering manipulations. A 
variety of tlie best agents known for this purpose is 
here presented. They cover nearly every possible case, 
and a lady can use her own judgment as to which is 
the most applicable to any particular case. The selec- 
tion of the method to be used may depend somewhat 
upon the convenience with which its ingredients may 
be obtained. As far as possible, extract grease spots 
from silk while they are fresh, as they can then be 
more completely extracted than when they have be- 
come hardened in the fabric. 



198.-FRENCH CHALK. 

FRENCH Chalk is a fine soluble powder possess- 
ing a dry absorbing property, and acting upon 
silk like Fuller's Earth upon cloth. 



166 

To remove the grease spot from silk, grate a thick 
layer of French Chalk upon it. Common Chalk ma}' 
be used, but it is not so good as French Chalk. Cover 
the layer of Chalk with brown paper, and apply a 
moderately hot iron, letting the iron remain until it 
becomes cold. Be careful not to have the iron so hot 
as to scorch or change the color of the silk. In this 
process, the heat of the iron melts tlie grease, and the 
Chalk absorbs it. On removing the iron, if the grease 
does not appear to be entirely out, grate on more 
Chalk and again apply the iron. Repeat the process, 
until the grease is completely extracted. If time is no 
object, apply the Chalk to the grease spot, and lay the 
silk away in a dark place. In a few days the spot will 
disappear. For delicate colors this plan is the best, as 
the hot iron miglit injure them. Grease iriay be ex- 
tracted from paper, woolen goods, and floor.-; also, by 
the French Chalk method. 



199.-FRENCH SCOURING DROPS. 

THIS preparation for removing grease from silk, is 
a favorite with the French laundress. It is made 
in two ways. First: Mix together Camphene, eight 
ounces; pure Alcohol, one ounce; Sulphuric Ether, 
one ounce; and Essence of Lemon, one drachm. An- 



167 

otiier way is to take Spirits of "Wine, one pint; Ox 
Gall three ounces ; and Essence of Lemon, a quarter 
of an ounce. If put away in bottles, tightly corked, 
these preparations will keep always ready for use. 
They are also excellent for removing grease from 
velvets. 



200.-SIMPLE METHOD FOR REMOVING 
GREASE FROM SILKS. 

THIS is a simple, convenient and valuable method. 
Separate a visiting or other csird, and rub the 
grease spot with the soft internal part. The spot will 
disappear, without dulling the gloss of the silk. Be 
careful to rub the silk on the wrong side, as the card 
will sometimes soil silks of delicate colors. If this 
precaution be taken, the spot can not be seen on the 
right side of the silk. 



201.-EGG METHOD. 

SEPARATE as perfectly as possible the Yolk from 
the White of an Egg. Then spread out the silk 
on a table, and dip a soft clothes brush into the Yolk 



168 

and rub the spot till tlie greaso seems loosened. The 
Yolk will not injure the most delicate colors, but the 
rubbing may, if too severe. Then rinse in warm rain 
water: rub the edges with a damp cloth; and clap the 
whole between dry towels. If the stain has not quite 
disappeared, repeat the process. Grease ^\\'dy be ex- 
tracted from broadcloth also, by this method, but it 
M'ill not do so well for fabrics mixed witli cotton and 
linen. 



202-DETERGENT FLUID. 

THIS lluid is very good for removing grease spots 
from silks, velvets, and Satin?. It is prepared by 
mixing together two ounces of rectified Spirits of Tur- 
pentine, and one fourth ounce each, of Absolute Alco- 
hol and Sulphuric Ether. The fluid may be preserved 
for a long time in a bottle tightly corked. Shake it 
well before using, and apply with a sponge. 

203.-AQUA AMMONIA. 

AQUA AMMONIA is excellent to remove grease 
spots from silk, velvet, and in fact, any kind of 
fabric. Use the Ammonia nearly pure; then lay white 
blotting paper over the spot, and iron it gently. Salts 



1G9 
of Aminonia inlxed with Lime will restore silks stained 
•with wine or vegetable juices. After the Ammonia 
eifects the removal of the stains, it should be entirely 
removed with water. 

204.-CHLOROF0RM. 

AS Chloroform will not injure the colors, it is very 
valuable for removing stains from silks or velvets. 
Dip a clean soft cotton rag in Chloroform, rub the 
spots rapidly but gently, and the grease wdll imme- 
diately disappear. If necessary, repeat the operation. 
Be careful to do the rubbing lightly and rapidly; and 
then finish with a clean dry cloth. If these precau- 
tions are not taken, a slight stain may be left by the 
Chloroform. 



205. -ACID STAINS ON VIOLET SILK. 

ANY acid dropped on violet silk destroys its color. 
The color may be restored by creating a new 
stain, and then removing both the old and new stain 
simultaneously. "Wet the discolored part with Tinc- 
ture of Iodine. After a few seconds, saturate the spot 
again with a solution of Ilyposulphate of Soda, and 
dry gradually. The color will be perfectly restored. 



170 



206-OX GALL. 

Ox GALL is a very delicate cleansing agent, and 
can be emplo3'-ed to remove grease spots from silk. 
It will also brighten the colors, (167.) Add one or two 
tablespoon fuls to a gallon of warm water. Immerse 
the article, or s})onge the snrface with the Ox Gall 
water, (168.) 



207.-TO REMOVE WAX STAINS FROM 
SILK. 

MIX powdered French Chalk with Lavender Water 
to the thickness of mustard. Apply it to the 
stain and rub it gently witli the lingers or palm of the 
hand. Lay a sheet of clean blotting jjaper over the 
spot, and a sheet of brown paper over the blotting 
paper. Then run over the brown j^^^PQ^' with a warm 
iron. When dry, remove the Chalk, and gently dust 
the silk with a white handkerchief. If a faint mark 
still remains, a second application of French Chalk 
and Lavender AYator will remove it. If the wax has 
fallen thickly on the silk, first c;ircfully remove all tiiat 
is possible with a pen-knife. 



in 



208-SPERMACETI, OLEIN, & STEARIN 
STAINS. 

FIRST scrape ofi' as imicli as possible with a pen- 
knife. Then lay a thin soft white blotting paper 
over the spots, and press it with a warm iron. By 
repeating this process, the stain may be entirely drawn 
out. Afterward rub the cloth where the spot has been 
with some soft brown paper. 

209.-T0 REMOVE RESIN SPOTS FROM 
SILKS. 

STAINS produced by wax, resin, turpentine, pitch, 
or any substance of a resinous nature, may be re- 
moved by pure Alcohol. It often happens that when 
common Turpentine is employed to remove grease, 
varnish, or paint stains from silk, the Turpentine itself 
leaves a stain almost as objectionable as the original 
stain. These stains arc due to the resin, which was 
held in solution by the Turpentine, and which re- 
mained in the silk after the volatile portion had 
evaporated. Alcohol applied with a clean sponge will 



172 

remove such stains, because Alcohol will dissolve the 
resin. The stains should be first moistened with the 
Alcohol, and allowed to soak for a few minutes. Fresh 
Alcohol is again apjjlied with a sponge, and with a 
light rubbing motion. Then wipe it as dry as possible, 
and hang it in the open air to finish drying. 



210.-T0 REMOVE PAINT FROM SILK 
OR VELVET. 

THIS method is used to extract paint not only 
from silk and velvet, but also from goods of any 
material. Saturate the spots with rectified Spirits of 
Turpentine ; and after it has remained several hours, 
rub the stained portion between the hands. The paint 
will crumble away, without any injury to the color or 
the texture of the fabric. 



211.-0LD PITCH. VARNISH, OR OIL 
PAINT STAINS. 

TO remove stains of this class after they have been 
long in the goods, it is necessary to moisten them 
with a little lard or butter, pn-vious to applying Tur- 



178 

pentine or soap. In such cases, a simple way is to 
soak the stains in Spirits of Turpentine, and when 
well moistened, to wash them with the same fluid. 
Benzoin is also excellent for this purpose ; and Chloro 
form will remove paint from articles, when almost 
every other agent fails. Procure as pure Turpentine 
as possible, or it may itself leave a stain. 



212.-BENZOIN STAINS. 

IN removing grease spots from fabrics by the use 
of Benzoin or Turpentine, it often happens that a 
discolored or stained outline of the portion moistened 
remains. A layer of Gypsum, extending a little 
beyond the moistened region, will avoid this trouble. 
When the article dries, shake or brush off the Gypsum, 
and no trace of the stain will remain. 



213.-CAUTION IN USING BENZOIN. 

FROM the facility with which it removes grease 
from fabrics, this substance is regarded almost 
indispensable in the household. Few persons, how- 
ever, realize the explosive character of Benzoin, or 
the dangers attending a careless use of it. It is very 



174 

volatile and vaporizes witli po ^reut a rapidity, that the 
contents of a four ounce vial, if overturned, would 
render the air of a moderately sized room highly 
exjjlosive. Too great care can not be taken in hand- 
ling this substance in close proximity to a lire. It is 
well to remember, that the vapor escaping from an 
uncorked bottle, will cause a llame to leap over a 
space of several feet. 

■ 214.-W ASHING SILKS. 

TO wash silks successfully is a very nice operation. 
The finest and most delicate colored silk nuiy be 
renovated, and made to look as good as new, provided 
proper care be taken and certain conditions are ful- 
filled. P'rench dressmakers and laundresses are espe- 
cially noted for their skill in managing silks; and any 
lady may equal them, provided the right treatment is 
understood. 



215.-THE REQUISITE CONDITIONS TO 
BE FULFILLED. 



ALL grease spots and stains should be extracted 
from silks before beginning to wash them; for 



175 

when the whole of tlie garment is wet, the spots are 
apt to be invisihle. 

Use hard soap I'or all colors, except yellow, for wliieh 
soft soap is best. Pnt the soap into hot water and 
beat it until dissolved, and then add sutlicient cold 
water to make it just luke-warm. Put in the silk and 
rub it until clean ; then take it out, witliout wringing, 
and rinse it in fair luke-warm water ; then rinse again 
in another water. 

In ever wring or crush a piece of silk while it is wet : 
because tlue creases thus formed will remain forever, 
especially if the silk is thick and hard. 

In rinsing, dip the silk up and down in the water; 
then take it out, without wringing, and hang in the 
shade to dry. 

Fold them while damp and let tliem remain, so the 
moisture will pcjieti'ate evenly through all the parts. 
It is the best way to smooth them in a mangle; or if a 
mangle be not possessed, iron them on the wrong side 
with a sad-iron just warm enough to smooth them. 

216-PRESERVING THE COLORS. 

IN washing silks, delicate colors are quite apt to 
mix or run. To effectually prevent this, different 
colors require different ingredients in the rinsing 
water. 



176 

For briglit yellow, eriinsons, and maroons, add to 
the rinsing water sufficient Sulphuric Acid to give the 
water an acid taste. 

For the various shades of pink, use in the rinsing 
water a littler Vinegar, or Lemon Juice. 

For scarlets, nse a solution of Tin. 

For purples, blues, and their various shades, use 
Pearlash. For olive greens, dissolve Verdigris in the 
rinsing water. Fawns and browns, should be rinsed 
in fair water. A little Alum dissolved in the last 
rinsing water, tends to prevent the colors of silks froin 
mixing. 

The water in which pared potatoes have beeu 
boiled is an excellent preparation in which to M^ash 
black silks. It stiffens and makes them glossy and 
black. Beef Gall and luke-warm water will also re- 
store rusty black silks. They look better, not to be 
rinsed in clear water ; but should be washed in two 
different waters. 



217.-T0 WASH SILKS. 

FINE silks may be nicely cleansed by this method^ 
Spread the article out smoothly upon a clean hard 
table or board. Soap well a piece of soft flannel, 
which ha8 been previously wet with luke-warm water; 



177 

and rub with tlio llaniiel the surfiice of the silk one 
Avaj, being careful that the rubbing is quite even. 
"\Yhe!i tlie dirt is removed, rub off the soap with a 
sponge and i^lenty of cold water, of which the sponge 
must be made to imbibe as much as possible. As soon 
as one side is liiiished, treat the other in the same way. 
Xot niore of either surface should be done at a time, 
than, can bo spread perfectly fiat upon the table, and 
the hand can conveniently reach. Likewise the soap 
should be sponged quite off one portion, before the 
soaped flannel is applied to another. The colors may 
be brightened by observing the directions given in 
method (21 G). White or colored satins and ribbons 
may also be cleansed by this method. It is a very 
effective process for renovating all kinds of silk rib- 
bons and trimmings. 

lied, purple, orange, blue, olive, and puce, are very 
much improved by this treatment, and it wi'il not 
injure the delicate shades of lavender and green. If 
the silk to lie washed is a dress, it is not necessary to 
rip the seams of the skirt ; merely separate the band 
from the waist, and remove the lining at the bottom. 

218-POTATO LIQUOR. 

COLORED or blai.k silks, moreens, printed cottons, 
and chintzes, may be cleansed without injury to 



178 

tlieir colors by Potato Liqnor. G rate raw potatoes to 
a fine pulp and mix them with water, in the proportion 
of one pint of water to one pound of Potatoes. Pass 
the liquid through a coarse sieve into a vessel, and let 
it remain until the fine white starch subsides to the 
bottom. Pour ofi" the clear liquid, which is to be used 
for the cleansing. Spread the article to be washed 
upon a table, which should be coveied with a linen 
cloth. Dip a sjDonge in the Potato Licpior, and apply 
it until the dirt is removed. Then rinse the article 
several times in clear cold water. 



219.-BLACK REVIVER. 

THE celebrated Black Reviver for restoring the 
color of black silk, cloth, or leather, is made as 
follows. Take of bruised Gall, four ounces ; Logwood, 
Copperas, Iron Filings, free from grease, and Sumach 
Leaves, each one ounce. Put the Galls, Logwood, and 
Sumach Leaves, into one quart of good vinegar, and 
set the vessel containing tlio mixture into a warm 
water bath for twenty-foiiv hours. Then add the Iron 
Filings, and Copperas, and for about a week occa- 
sionally shake the mixture. It should be preserved in 
a bottle well corked. 



179 



220-HOW TO USE THE BLACK RE« 
VIVER. 

i 

IN using the Black Eeviver on silks, first steep the 
silk for a few hours in cold water. Then put half 
a pint of the lieviver into half a gallon of water, and 
add a cupful of Ox Gall. Make the solution hot and 
sponge the silk. When it dries, smooth it with a warm 
iron. This preparation is excellent to restore rusty 
black silk. Rubbing the silk with Gin is also good. 

The Black Reviver is much used to restore the black 
color of leather when it turns red. 

Before the application, clean the leather v\'ell with 
soap and water. It is best applied with a sponge. 



221.-HONEY MIXTURE. 

THIS mixture is very useful for cleansing satins and 
colored woolen goods, as well as silks. 
Mix well together, four ounces of soft soap; four 
ounces of Honey ; the White of an Egg ; and a wine- 
glassful of Gin. Lay the article in widths on a hard 
surface, and thoroughly scour it with a rather stiff 
brush dipped in the Honey Mixture. Afterward rinse 



180 
the article in cold water ; let it drain partly dry, and 
iron it whilst quite damp, witli a piece of thin muslin 
placed between the material and the iron, so that it 
may not be marked on the wrong side. In applying- 
the mixture with a brusli, lay the silk out smoothly on 
the table, so that every part may come under the 
brush. 

White silk requires a little blueing in the water. 
Try this method. It is attended with perfect success. 



222™TO RENOVATE SILKS WITH OLD 
KID GLOVES. 

THIS ie a French method of renovating silks and 
its results are very pleasing. Especially in making 
over black silk dresses will it be found an excellent 
mode of cleansing them. Out an old kid glove into 
small p:ece>. and pour over them a pint of boiling 
water, (/over the vessel containing the liquid, and let 
it stand wliere the water will keep warm, if possible, 
The next day. boil it again, strain it and add a dessert- 
spoonful of Alcohol. Sponge the silk 071 the rigl.r 
side, keeping the liquid worm; and iron immediately 
on tlie wrong side, with an iron oidy moderately hot. 
Bv thus steeping tlie kid glove, certain portions are 



181 

dissolved, and a decoction is obtained possessing ad- 
mirable pro])erties for restoring silks. For black silks, 
use a black kid glove; and for light shades of silk, use 
white or light kid gloves. For this purpose, it is well 
to save old kid gloves of \"arious colors. Tlic solution 
will answer without the Alcohol, but is much better 
with it. By this method, the silk is not only cleansed, 
but a beautiful lustre is added. 



223.-SILKS SLIGHTLY SOILED, 

WHEN silks are but slightly soiled, they may very 
frequently be renovated in the following simple 
way: Sponge the silk with warm water and soap; 
then place it on a hard board, and rul) it dry with a 
dry cloth. Afterward iron it gently o!i the inside, 
using the hard board for an ironing surtace. 

Old black silk may be im])roved by sponging it with 
White Lye. In this case, the ironing must be done on 
the right side, a thin paper being placed under the iron 
to prevent glazing. 

224.-SILK STOCKINGS. 



w 



THITE, or silk stockings of fanc}^ colors, will last 
/ twice the usual time, and can be kept soft and 



183 

looking like now, if treated by the accompanying 
method. 

Heat some soft water, and while it is on the lire cut 
into it slices of good yellow soap, sufficient to make a 
lather. Put in the stockings while the lather is wari^!. 
but not scalding hot, and wash them through two such 
lathers. A wineglassful of Gin in the first lather is an 
improvement, as it greatly facilitates in the removal of 
the dirt. Rinse them in luke-warm water, and then 
pass them through a water tinged with a little blueing. 

Eose pink, (63), such as is used for line muslins and 
laces, is better than the blueing. After rinsing, place 
the stockings between towels and let them get almost 
dry. Tiien lay them out on a small sheet very smooth 
and flat, just as they are when first purchased. Tack 
them to the sheet with, a needle and thread, then turn 
the sheet over them, and pass them through tlie mangle. 
If it is not convenient to have them mangled, run be- 
tween weighted rollers; the next best plan, is to put 
about six stockings, one upon the other, between nms- 
lin, lay them on a stone doorstep, and roll them in the 
same way that dough is rolled with a rolling pin. They 
should not be mangled or rolled in towels, as the pat- 
tern of the towels would be impressed upon them. If 
the stockings have lace fronts, they will more particu- 
larly require the tacking mentioned above to make 
them look nice. No Washing Soda or Crystal of an} 



183 

kind should be i:sed. Do theui as quickly as possible, 
and not leave them lying about. A good laundress 
takes as much pride in doing up a silk stockiiig elegant- 
ly, as she would a white vest. 

225.-W ASHING SILK SHAWLS. 

MANY ladies never attempt to wash fine silk or 
woolen shaws. They are afraid to make the ex- 
periment, but by this simple method these articles may 
be washed without mixing the colors, and they will be 
as soft and bright as when first purchased. Pare and 
grate raw, mealy Potatoes, and add two f[uarts of cold 
water to every pint of the Potato pulp. Let it stand 
five hours, and then strain through a sieve, rubbing 
through as much of the Pototo pulp as possible. Let 
the strained w^ater settle again, and when very clear, 
carefully turn the water ofl' from the dregs. Xext 
place a clean white cotton sheet over a perfectly clean 
table, and lay on the shawl which is to be cleaned, and 
tightly pin it down. Dip a sponge that has never been 
used into the Potato water, and rub the shawl until it 
is clean. Then rinse in clean water, usintr in this rins- 
ing water a teacupful of salt to every pailful of water. 
Next spread the shawl on a clean level place, where it 
will dry quickly. If hung up to dry, the colors are apt 



184 

to run and the shawl will be rendered streaked. Fold 
it up while still damp and let it remain half an hour. 
Then either pass it through a mangle, or wrap it in a 
clean white sheet, and place it under a lie;ivy weight 
till it becomes dry. If there arc any grease spots on 
the shawl, it is best to remove them before the washing 
is begun. 



226.-DAMASK AND BROCATELLO 
TAPESTRY. 

TAPESTRY Avhich has some parts raised above the 
ground, representing flowers and other figure?, are 
usually considered difficult of renovation ; but the rich- 
est and m.ost elegant iiowered curtain, either silk aii'l 
cotton, silk and worsted, damask, terry, or broeateilo, 
may be restored to nearly its original beauty by tlie ac- 
companying treatment: 

First dip the curtain into Camphene; then lay it on a 
board, and with a brush, rub it first on the wrong side 
and then on the right. Dip the curtain again into the 
Camphene, and then rinse it in some fresh Camphene. 
Let it drain a minute or two. Wipo it with a linn, ur 
cotton sheet till all the moisture possible is absorbed; 
and then brush it with a dry brush of soft hnir. Ha-ng 



185 

it in the open air for a few hours to take away the odor 
of tho Cainphene. Dampen the curtain by placing it 
between moistened sheets. Iron with a damp cloth 
between the curtain and the iron. A gallon of Cam- 
phene is sufficient for each curtain width. 



227.-SILK COVERINGS AND WORSTED 
REPS. 

SILK or worsted rep furniture of any kind or color, 
may be iVeshened as follows : First place a sheet un- 
der each piece of furniture as it is cleaned, to catch the 
fallinir litter. Then dust Indian Meal over the article 
and rub it with a stiti'brush till it is clean. When silk 
cushions or silk coverings to furniture become dingy, 
rub dry bran on them gently with a woolen cloth, till 
they become clean. 



^■^^1 



% '^r^t^(->^"^'^J§g)^^-^7^ 



-f-^ 



CHAPTER XL 



22a-LACES, SATINS, AND VELVETS, 

THIS may be appropriately styled the ornamental 
chapter, for it treats of the finest articles of a 
lady's wardrobe, laces, crapes, veils, satins, velvets, silk 
ribbons, trimmings, kid gloves and furs. It is obvious 
that the costlier the article, the more valuable will be 
a knowledge of the art of preserving and renovating 
it. Every spring, summer, antumn, and winter, goes 
forth from Worth, the Parisian Artist de ?node, a 
change of fashions. "As well out of the world as out 
of fashion," so four times a year must a lady seek the 
aid of the dress-maker and milliner. In the bustle of 
changing and remodeling, how essential for economy is 
a perfect knowledge of the skillful renovation of cost- 
lier articles. In the matter of economy alone, the fol- 
lowing n.iethods recon.imend themselves. They are 
methods which the most skillful Parisian milliners, 
dressmakers 2::d laundresses employ. 



187 



229-TO CLEAR STARCH LACES. 

STARCH for laces should be made thicker, and used 
hotter than for linens. After laces have been well 
washed and dried, dip them in the thick hot starch in 
such a way that every part may be thoroughly starched. 
Then press out the excess of starch, t^pread them out 
smoothly on a piece of linen, and roll the whole up 
together, allowing them to remain half an hour, when 
they M'ill be dry enough to iron. iSTever clap laces 
between the hands, as it injures them. Cambrics do 
not require starch so thick as nets or laces. Cold or 
raw starch is preferable for book muslin, as some of 
this material has a thick clammy appearance if starched 
in boiled starch. Fine laces are frequently wound 
around a glass bottle to dry, as by this uj.eans they are 
kept from shrinking. 



230.-IR0NING LACES. 

IT is far better not to iron laces at all, especially line 
lace; but in the case of ordinary laces and worked 
muslin, it will sometimes answer to pass a cool iron 
over the back of the lace, with paper between the iron 



188 

and tlie lace. Raised point can be laid face downward 
on several folds of liannel, and the ivory punch or lob- 
ster claw inserted behind the raised portions. This, 
however, is rather a delicate operation, and perhaps 
had better not be attempted, for in the old nnwashed 
lace these portions are not so prominent. 

To produce something of the same eilect in ironing 
embroidery, ordinary lace, crochet, guipure cV art, anti- 
macassars, &c., have several folds of flannel beneath, 
press the point of the sad-iron Avell into the raised por- 
tions, and iron on the wrong side. 



231,-lRONING FINE LACES, 

THE finer kind of laces require a special treatment 
for smoothing them. When the lace has been 
starched and dried and is ready to be smoothed, spread 
it out as evenly as possible on the ironing cloth, and 
pass over it, back and forth, as quickly as possible, a 
smooth round glass bottle containiuijc hot Wiitcr, r-'iviu'i* 
the bottle such pressure as may be rcciuircd to perfectly 
smooth the lace. Sometimes the lace may be passed 
over the bottle, care being taken to keep the lace even 
and smooth. Either way is much better than to smooth 
laces with a sad-iron, for the iron is apt to turn the lace 



189 



yellow. In filling the bottle -with hot water, do not 
fill too fast or the bottle may break. 



232.-TO WASH WHITE SILK LACE, OR 
DELICATE BLOND. 

11 /TA^l ladies may think this a rather long process, 
J^Vl ^^d one reqniring too much care; but some blond 
lace is very delioitc and valuable and cannot be roughly 
handled. By following the directions of this method, 
ladies will surely be pleased with the results. 

Take a black bottle covered with clean linen or mus- 
lin, and wind the blond around it, not leaving the edge 
outward but cover it as you proceed, and secure the 
ends with a needle and thread. Set the bottle upright 
in a pan containing a strong lather made from white 
soap and, very clear soft water. Place the pan in the 
sunshine, and gently with the hand rub tlie lather up 
and down on the lace. Keep it thus in the sunshine every 
day for a week, changing the lather daily, and always 
gently rubliing the lace every time tlie lather is re- 
newed. At the end of the week, take the blond oft' 
the bottle, and without wringing, pin it backward and 
forward on a large pillow provided with a clean tight 
case. Every scallop must have a separate pin, or more 



190 

than one, if the scall(ip? are not very small. The plain 
edge nnist also be piniied down to make it straight and 
even. The pins should be of the smallest toilet size. 
Wlien quite dry remove the blond from the pillow, but 
neither starch, iron, or ])ross it, simply lay it in long 
loose folds and put it auay in a paste-board box. 



233-REVIVING BLOND LACE. 

QUITE frequently blond lace, although but little 
soiled, has a wilted appearance which makes it 
look almost ruined. In such cases, it is not necessary 
to go through the long operation required by the pre- 
vious method. The lace when but slightly soiled, can 
generally be revived by breathing upon it, and then 
briskly shaking and flapping it. The process may be 
repeated several times. 



234.-FINE THREAD LACE. 

FINE thread lace may be washed in the same man- 
ner as th? blond, (232), or the process may be 
modified a little. When the thread lace has been 
attached to the bottle, take some of the best Sweet Oil 
and thorouohlv saturate the lace. Have ready in a 



191 

kettle a strong latlier of soft water and wliite Castile 
Soap. Fill the bottle with cold water to prevent its 
vaulting, then cork it well, and stand it ii])right in tlie 
suds. To prevent the bottle from shifting alxmt and 
breaking while over the fire, tie a string around its 
neck and secure the string to the eai-s ot the kettle 
Let it boil in the suds for an hour, or nntil the lace is 
clean and white all through. Then drain off the suds 
and dry the lace in the sunshine, keeping it still 
attached to the bottle. When dry, remove it from 
the bottle, and wind it around a white ribbon block ; 
or lay it in long folds within a sheet of smooth white 
paperj and then press it in a large book for a few days. 
It is a good idea to add about twelve drops of Aqua 
Ammonia to the lather for washins; laces. 



235.~PARISIAN METHOD OF WASH- 
ING POINT LACE. 

By following the directions given in this method, 
ladies may wash and finish their own point lace 
as skillfully as the best French laundress. Prepare a 
basin of strong white Castile Soap suds, and add a tea- 
spoonful of powdered Borax. Baste the lace to be 
washed very carefully upon two folds of flannel with 



192 

fine cotton. Soak the lace thus arranged in the soap 
mixture for twenty liours, or longer if very dirty, 
changing tlic suds several times. Next lay it to rinse 
in clear soft water for about three hours, changing this 
Vv'ater once. Do not wring it, hut squeeze out the 
water, and place tiie flannel with the lace still attached 
td it, lace downward, upon two folds of dry flannel. 
Lay the flannel on a table and smooth it with a hot 
iron. During the entire operati(jn tl:e lace must re- 
main basted to tlie flannel, and wlien it is pressed, must 
lie sandwiched between t!ie dry and damp flannels, and 
pressed upon the latter, AVhen the lace is perfectly 
dry, rip it ofl" the flannel, and it will be found elegantly 
laundried. 



236.-SUGAR SIZING FOR LACES. 

A SOLUTION of white Sugar makes an admirable 
sizing for laces. Dissolve twelve lumps of pure 
white Sugar in a teacupful of hot water. More or less 
of this sizing can l)e prepared, according to the quan- 
tity of lace to be starched. Pour it into a pan and add 
a little blueing or Eose Pink, (03). Dip each piece of 
lace separately in the sizing; and instead of wringing, 
squeeze out the excess of sizing. 



103 



237-CREAMY TINT. 

THE choicest kinds of laces have a peculiar creamy 
tint. The more valuable the lace, the richer this 
creamy tint will be. This much prized tint can be easily 
imparted to almost any kind of white lace, and it will 
be a very clever imitation of the costly article. Sim})ly 
sponge or dip the lace in cold coffee. The decoction 
should be made pure, from Mocha, or the genuine old 
Java. It must not be made too strong, however, or it 
will impart too brown a tint. 



238.-MAGNESIA AND FRENCH CHALK. 

FINE laces may sometimes be cleaned by covering 
them with French Chalk or Magnesia, and thus 
laying them away for a week. At the end of that 
time, brush off the powder, and often the lace comes 
out perfectly clean. This method is so simple and 
attended with so little trouble, that it is advisable to 
try it before resorting to more difficult expedients. In 
about two-thirds of the cases where it has been tried, 
it has proved highly successful. 



194 



239 -TO WASH BLACK LACE. 

RUSTY l>lack lace can be beautifully restored by 
this treatniont. Dissolve Spirits of Wine and 
Borax, of each oik^ teaspoonful, in half a teacupful 
of very soft watei-. Squeeze the lace through this 
liquid three or lour times; then rinse it in a cnp of hot 
water, in which a lilack kid glove has been steeped. 
After which, pull out the edges of the lace, and when 
it is nearly dry, ])ress it iu a heavy l)Ook for about two 
davs. 



240.-SILVER AND GOLD LACE. 

THIS method will be found very valuable in clean- 
ing regalia suits, or any silver and gold 
trimmings. Lay the lace out smoothly on a piece of 
woolen carpet or a woolen cloth, and brush it free from 
dust. Prepare the cleansing powder by burning Roche 
Alum, powdering it finely, and sifting it throngh a 
lawn sieve. Rub this powder over the lace with a fine 
brush. By thus doing the tarnish Avill be removed and 
the brightness restored, provided the threads of the lace 
are not too badlv worn. 



195 



241.-T0 WASH A WHITE LACE VEIL 

''piIERE is probably no article of fashion so easilj 
j[ soiled, and their successful renovation so little 
understood, as lace veils. They may be skillfully 
waslicd, however, without the slightest injury. 

Prepare a good lather of white soap and clear soft 
water. Immerse the veil and let it gently simmer for 
a quarter of an hour; then take it out, but be sure not 
to rub or wring it, merely squeeze out the water. 
Rinse it through two cold waters with a few drops of 
liquid blue or Rose Pink, (63), in the last. Next 
starch the veil by passing it through some clear G urn- 
Arabic water, or some thin Rice water. Stretch it out 
evenly and pin it to dry on a clean linen cloth, making 
the edge as straight as possible, opening out all the 
Bcallops and fastening each with pins. When dry, lay 
a piece of thin muslin over it, and iron on the wrong 
side. 



242.-TO WASH A BLACK LACE VEIL 



T 



O a quantity of Ox Gall, add hot water sufficient 
to render it as hot as the hand can bear, and it is 



196 

well to add a little Musk to perfume the Ox Gull. Fuss 
the veil tlirougli this water, squeezing but not rubbing 
it; and rinse through two cold waters, tinging the last 
with a little Blueing. After it is dry, dress it in a sizing 
prepared by pouring boiling water on a sniaU piece of 
Glue, (30); then sc[ueeze it through this sizing, and pin 
it out to dry on a linen cloth, laying it very straight 
and even, and taking care to e\('n]y pin the edges. 
When it dries, iron it on the wrong side, having laid a 
linen cloth over the ironing blanket. Any article of 
black lace may be washed by tlie same process. 



243.-T0 REMOVE STAINS FROM 
BLACK CRAPE. 

BY this method stains can l>e removed not only from 
black crape, V)ut from mourning dresses also. 
Boil a handful of Fig Leaves in two quarts of water 
until the decoction evaporates to a pint, then press out 
the leaves, strain the liqui !, and bottle for use. Crape, 
7nourning dresses, bombazines, &v,., need only to be 
rubbed with a sponge dipped in this liquid, and the 
desired effect will be instantly produced. 



197 



244.-T0 RESTORE RUSTY ITALIAN 

CRAPE. 

HEAT half a pint of Skim Milk and water in equal 
proportions, and when ?calding hot, dissolve in it 
a piece of Glue an int-li scpuire, and then remove from 
thoiire. Fir&t clean the crape l\v rinsing it in Yinegar, 
and then stiflien it by dipping it in Milk solution. 
Squeeze it out and clap it till drv, and then smoftth it 
with a liot iron. A slieet of paper should always he 
laid over it when it is ironed. 

Gin is also excellent to restore rusty black crape. 
Dip it in and let it become saturated with the Gin. 
Then clap it dry, and smooth it o\it with a moderately 
hot iron. Italian crape may also be died to look as 
bright as new. 

245.-WATER STAINS ON BLACK 
CRAPE. 

WHEN a drop of water falls on a black crape veil 
or collar, it leaves a (conspicuous white mark. 
These marks may be obliterated as follows: Spread the 
crape out on a table and place a large book on it to 



198 

keep it steady, and lay a piece of old black silk under- 
neath the stain. With a large camel's liair brush 
dipped in common black ink, go over the stain, and 
then M'ipe off the ink with a bit of old soft silk. It 
will dry immediately and the white stain will be no 
longer visible. 



246.-T0 WASH A CHINA CRAPE 
SCARF. 

WHEIn" the fabric is good, these articles of dress 
can be washed as frequently as may be required, 
and no diminution of their beauty will be discoverable, 
even when among other colors of the pattern, the deli- 
cate shades of green are employed. 

Make a strong lather of wliite soap and boiling soft 
water, and allow it to cool. When cold, or nearly so, 
wash the scarf quickly and thoroughly in it ; then dip 
it immediately in cold hard water, in which a little 
Salt has been dissolved to preserve the colors. Give it 
another rinsing, and squeeze out the water, and hang it 
out to dry in the open air. Always pin it at its ex^ 
treme edges to the line, so that it may not be folded 
together in any of its parts. The more rapidly the 
scarf dries the clearer and brighter will it appear. 



199 



247-RIBBONS, VELVETS AND SATINS. 

VELVETS, satins, silk ribbons, and trimmings, re- 
quire nearly the same treatment as is applied to 
silks for removing great^e, spots. The methods for 
washing this class of goods are also similar to the silk 
methods. To avoid needless repetition, ladies are 
referred to the various silk methods, (l!>7) to (221), 
whenever they may have occasion to renovate velvets, 
satins, or ribbons. A few methods, however, are spe- 
cially adapted to these materials. 



248-SOILED RIBBON. 



A MIXTURE of Alcohol and finely rectified Ben- 
/~\ zoin is excellent for cleaning soiled ribbons. It 



1 



is applied with a clean sponge. Be careful not to get 
near a fire or burning lamp, under pcnalt}' of an ex- 
plosion, (2^■^). Colors taken out by acids or vegetable 
juices may be readily restored by the use of Aqua 
Amm.onia; which may be applied to any fabric or color 
without doing the least injury. 



900 

249.-ISINGLASS SIZING. 

ISINGLASS sizing is much used to impart to ribbons 
gauze, or silk scarfs, a fine gloss and finish. After 
the dirt, grease spots and stains have been removed, 
rinse the article thoroughly in water, in which has been 
mingled a little Isinglass Starch, prepared as in method 
(31). Gum Arabic Starch, (28), is also good for the 
same purpose. 

250.-CREASED RIBBONS. 

TO restore creased ribbons, lay them out smoothly 
on a clean board, and dampen them evenly all 
over with water, using a very clean sponge. Roll 
them smoothly and tightly on a ribbon block of greater 
width than the ribbon and let them remain until dry. 
Wrap them in brown paper, and lay them away until 
wanted. 

251-WRINKLES IN SILK SCARFS AND 
HANDKERCHIEFS. 

THIS is a very good way to remove wrinkles from 
silk scarfs and handkerchiefs. Moisten the sur- 



201 

face evenly with a sponge and some Wheat Ghic, and 
then fasten the article with toilet pins, around 
the shelves or on a mattress, taking pains to draw out 
tlie article as smoothly as possible. When dry, the 
wrinkles will be invisible. Some silk articles are much 
improved when moistened with Glue or Gum Water, 
which must be very weak. 



252-TO STIFFEN SILK TRIMMINGS. 

SPONGE the surface of. the silk with a very weak 
Gum Arabic solution, (28); or with equal parts of 
Ale and water, and iron on the wrong side wdiile it is 
damp. These are favorite methods with milliners, and 
are largely employed when old silks are used for trim- 
mings, and it is desired that they should be particularly 
stiff. 

253.-WRAPPING RIBBONS. 

WHEN laying ribbons away in drawers, it is a bad 
plan to wrap them in newspapers. The Chlo- 
ride of Lime used in the manufacture of Mdiite paper 
and newspapers is quite apt to bleach or fade delicate 
colors. Use instead, son:ie soft brown paper. White or 



203 

light shades of ribbon and satin, when laid away, should 
be wrapped first in blue tissue paper, and then with 
brown paper on the outside. For wrapping any delicate 
colored goods, the smooth yellow Indian paper is the 
best that can be used. 



254.-T0 EXTRACT GREASE FROM 
VELVET AND SATIN. 

POUR a little Turpentine over the spot and rub it 
_ briskly with a piece of clean dry flannel, until the 
spot becomes quite dry. If the first application is not 
successful, repeat the operation ; then brush the place 
well and hang the article in the open air, so that the 
unpleasant odor of the Turpentine may be removed. 

255 -TO RAISE THE PILE ON VELVET, 

'"I^HE pile or plush of velvet when pressed down 
X may be easily raised and made to appear as glossy 
as when new. Hold the wrong side of the velvet over 
the steam arising from the boiling water until the pile 
rises. Another way is to lightly dampen the wrong 
side of the velvet, and hold it over a pretty hot iron 



203 

but yet not hot enough to scorch. The steam arising 
will penetrate the velvet and the plush may be raised 
with a brush. Still another way, is to place a clean 
hot brick upon a wet cloth; hold over the velvet, and 
the steam will raise the pile. To give the gloss, rub 
well between the hands a small quantity of pure Lard, 
which must be entirely free from salt. Use only 
enough Lard to barely oil the hands. Lay the velvet 
out smoothly on a table, and gently pass the oily hands 
over the plush side. This will restore the glossy 
appearance, and can be used for either silk velvet, or 
velveteen. 



256 -TO CLEAN WHITE & FLOWERED 
SATINS. 

PREPAEE a mixture of equal parts of sifted stale 
Bread Crumbs and powdered Blue. Thoroughly 
rub the satin all over with this mixture ; then shake it 
well and dust it off with a clean soft cloth. If the 
satin is embellished with gold or silver flowers, rub the 
flowered portion with a piece of soft ingrain velvet, 
which will restore it to its original lustre. Next pass 
the satin through a solution of fine white hard soap, at 
a hand heat, drawing the satin through the hand. 



204 

Rinse in lukewarm water, dry it, and finish by pinning 
it out smoothly. Brush the flossy or bright side with a 
clean clothes brush, the way of the nap. Imj)art a fin- 
ish by dipping a sponge into sizing, prepared by boiling 
Isinglass in water, (31), and rubbing the wrong side. 
Rinse a second time, use the brush again, and dry near 
the fire or in a warm room. Silks also may be cleansed 
by this method, but dispense with the brushing process. 



257.-K1D GLOVES. 

FEW ladies are aware that kid gloves can be reno- 
vated as perfectly as any other article, yet such is 
a fact. Tiie methods presented in this department are 
easy to follow, and will afford admirable results. It will 
be found the most economical to purchase the very best 
quality of kid gloves, for w^henever they become soiled 
they can be readily cleansed and be made as good as 
new. Good gloves can be renovated a number of 
times, until they are worn out. They will thus outlast 
several pair of cheap gloves. Ladies who wear kid 
gloves in hot weather and who perspire freely, will find 
that injury to the gloves may be prevented if they will 
apply to the hands before drawing on the gloves, com- 
mon dry Corn Starch. 



S05 



258.-STAINS ON KID GLOVES. 

STAINS may bo removed even from the most delicate 
colored gloves, bj ?uppending them for a day in an 
atmosphere of Ammonia. This may be accomplished by 
placing strong Aqua Ammonia in tlie bottom of a tall 
glass cylinder or a glass fruit can. Be careful to re- 
move from the sides of the jar, any of th.e Ammonia 
which may spatter upon them, Attacli tlie gloves to 
the stopper and suspend them in the jar, and the 
Ammonia gas will neutralize the stains. The gloves, 
however, must not come in contact M'ith the liquid 
Ammonia. 



W 



259.- WASHING KID GLOVES. 

THEX kid gloves are so badly soiled that they 
/ require washing, the following method will be 
found very valuable. Old kid gloves will look nearly 
new, they will be soft, glossy, smooth, elastic and pos- 
sess a good sliape. Spread out the glove smoothly and 
neatly on a cloth folded three or four times. Have 
ready a little new Milk in one saucer and a piece of 
nice hard Soap in another. Dip a piece of soft flannel 
in the Milk, and with the flannel thus moistened, rub 
off a goodly quantity of the Soap, and begin to rub 



206 

the glove downward towards tlie lingers, holding it 
firmly with the left liand. Continue this process until 
the glove, if white, looks of a dingy color, although 
ck'an; or if colored, until dark and spoiled. Lay them 
away to dry, or what is better, place them on tlie liand 
and rub tliciii (h-y witli a piece of soft flannel. They 
will soon look like new gloves. 

260.-FRENCH KID GLOVES. 

I^IIIS mctliod of cleaning French kid gloves is the 
one practiced in Paris, and for a long time the 
secret was zealously guarde 1. Since its introduction in 
this country, th(3usands of dollars have been saved. 
The method is exceedingly simple. Draw the gloves 
on the hands and wa'^h them in some Spirits of Turpen- 
tine until they become quite clean. AVash them just 
as if you were washing your hands. When clean, 
hang them in a v.-arm place to dry, or better, where 
there is a current of air, and the unpleasant Turpen- 
tine odor will disappear. 

261.-T0 CLEANSE GLOVES WITHOUT 
WETTING. 



I 



T may be an advantage to cleanse gloves without 
wetting them, as it would be impossible for them to 



207 

shrink. Make a niixturo of dried Fuller's Earth and 
powdered Alum in cqnul parts, and havinii; laid the 
gloves upon a clean board, apply the mixture on each 
side with a common stiii' brush; then dust olf the pow- 
der, and sprinkle them well with dry Bran and AV bit- 
ing, and again dust them. This treatnu nt, if tluy ;;re 
not exceedingly greasy, will reu'ler them quite ch-an. 
If they are much soiled take out the grease with 
Crumbs of toasted Bread and powder of burnt B(Mf.; 
then pass them over with a woolen cloth dipptd in 
Fullers Earth, or Alum powder. In this manner they 
mav be cleansed witliout wettino; them. 



262-OPERA GLOVES, OR KID GLOVES 
OF LIGHT SHADES 

LADIES are well aware how readily opera kid 
gloves become soiled. They can rarely be worn 
but once, for nearly every thing with which they come 
in contact leaves its mark. Those who are fond of 
wearing kid gloves of this style, can appreciate a suc- 
Qessful method of renovating them. 

Magnesia, Moist Bread and India Paibber are each 
ffood to clean kid rrloves of Hu-ht color. The substance 
should be thoroughly rubbed on the glove, and when 
brushed off, the glove will be found quite clean. Some- 



208 
times, however, gloves of very delicate sliades are so 
badly soiled that they cannot be cleaned by this treat- 
ment. In such cases the color may be changed by 
dyeing them with a decoction of Saffron. The color 
will then be changed to yellow or brown, according to 
the strength of the Saffron decoction. Prepare the 
decoction by steeping Sali'ron in boiling water for about 
twelve hours. The top edges of the gloves must be 
well sewed together, to prevent the dye from staining 
the insides, and the best way of applying the dye is 
with a sponge. A teacupful of the Satiron decoction 
will be found sufficient for one pair of gloves. 

263-GENLEINE. 

GANLEIXE 1-i a French composition for cleaning 
kid gloves. Dissolve three Troy ounces of Soap 
by heat in two ounces of water, and when nearly cold 
add two ounces of Javelle Water, (57), and one drachm 
of Aqua Annnonia. AVork the whole into a paste, 
which is to be rubbed over the glove with flannel until 
it is sufficiently clean. 

264.-EXCELLENT PERFUME FOR 
GLOVES. 



T 



AKE of Damask or Rose Scent, half an ounce; 
Spirit of Cloves and Mace, each a drachm ; Frank- 



209 

incense, a quarter of an ounce. Mix them well 
together and lay them in papers, and when hard press 
the irloves between them. The gloves will take tlie 
perfume in twenty-four hours, and hardly ever loose it. 
(132). 



265.-FURS. 

IN cleaning furs, strip them of their stuffing and 
binding, and lay them in as flat a position as possi- 
ble. They should then be subjected to a very brisk 
brushing: with a stiff clothes brush. After the brush- 
ing, any moth-eaten parts must be cut out, and neatly 
replaced with bits of new fur to match. 

266.-SABLE, CHINCHILLA, SQUIRREL, 
FITCH. 

FURS of these varieties should be treated as follows: 
Warm a quantity of new Bran in a pan and 
actively stir it to keep it from burning. "When well 
warmed rub it strongly into the fur with the hand. 
Eepeat the rubbing two or three times; then shake the 
fur well and give it a sharp brushing to entirely free it 
from dust. 



SIO 



267.-WHITE FURS, ERMINE, MINEVER, 
ETC. 

LAY the fur on tlie table and rub it well with Bran 
moistened witli warm water. Rub the fur with 
the moist Bran until the Bran becomes dry, and then 
rub it again with the dry Bran. The wet Bran should 
be put on with flaimel, and the dry with a piece of 
book muslin. Liglit furs, in addition to the above, 
should be well rubbed with Magnesia, or a piece of 
bool: muslin, after the Bran process. Dry Flour may 
be used in place of the wet Bran. It requires a very 
thorough rubbing to clean ermine and minever, and 
they should always be rubbed against the way of the 
fur. 



268.-STRETCHING. 

FURS are usually much improved by stretching, 
which may be managed as follows. Dissolve three 
ounces of Salt in a pint of soft water. Strip the fur 
of its binding and stuffing, and then with this solu- 
tion sponge the inside of the skin until it becomes 
thoroughly saturated. Care must be taken, however, 



211 

not to wet the fur itself. Next lay it carefully on a 
board, uith the fur side downward in its natural posi- 
tion. ±\o\v stretch it as nmcli as it will bear to the 
required shajK', and fasten with small tacks. The dry- 
ing may be hastened by placing the skin at a little dis- 
tance from the fire, where the warmth will strike it. 



269.-T0 PREVENT MOTHS IN FURS. 

IN the month of April or May, beat fur garments 
well with a small cane or elastic stick. Lap them 
up in linen, without pressing the fur too hard, and put 
small lumps of Camphor between the folds. Lay the 
fur away in this state, in well closed boxes. \Yhen the 
furs are M-anted for use again, beat them well and 
expose them to the air for twenty-fonr hours, and the 
unpleasant odor of the Camphor will disappear. If the 
fur has long hair, as beaver or fox, mix with the Cam- 
phor an equal quantity of strong Elack Pepper in poAV- 
der. A keg in which whiskey has been kept, is the 
most reliable place to put away furs during the summer. 



CHAPTER XII. 



270.-GENTLEMEN'S CLOTHING. 

LADIES are naturallj very apt in renovating their 
wearing apparel, hut many ladies, compelled per- 
haps by necessity, or induced by a prudential turn of 
mind, closely study such economy, and from con- 
tinual practice a v>'onderful skill and adroitness is at- 
tained. They seldom purchase new clothes, yet these 
ladies dress in excellent taste, and their wardrobe is as 
complete as one upon which three times more money 
has been expended. To but few persons, however, does 
it ever occur that gentlemen's clothing can be just as 
advantageously renovated. Whenever their clothes be- 
come a little rusty, gentlemen usually purchase a new 
suit, never thinking tliat by proper renovation a second 
service could be obtained iVom the old one. By skill- 
ful management, garments which have become too 
shabby even for wearing about home or while at w^ork- 
can be readily converted into respectable Sunday 



213 
clothes; even where they have worn glossy or thread- 
bare, the original appearance can be restored, A small 
unpretending sign, ''Gentlemen's Clothes Cleaned ami 
Repaired," may be seen in every city of the civilize) 
world. In these little clothes-cleansing establishments, 
constant experience determines the very best methods 
to employ. A careful treatment according to the 
methods here presented, will produce a wonderful 
change in the appearance of old clothes. 



271-GREASE SPOTS, 

GREASE is tlie most common cause of gentlemen's 
clothes becoming soiled, and the spots usually dis- 
figure the clothes more than anything else, for the 
grease not only spreads over a large surface, but the 
dust which invariably settles on it becomes incorporated 
with the grease, and adds to the disfigurement. Various 
agents ;irc used for removing grease spots, but the dis- 
advantage with most of them is, they do not entirely 
extract the grease. The spots may be invisible for a 
time, yet tliey soon reappear. Benzoin is extensively 
used and with good success. A very genteel old gen- 
tleman, whose clothes always appeared new and seemed 
to never wear out, when asked how he kept thcDi look- 
ing so well, answered, that he bought "Benzoin instead 



214 

of new clothes. lie had not houglit a new suit for four 
years, but every year lie bought a gallon of Benzoin. 

272.-PEARLASH AND LIME LIQUID. 

THIS liquid thoroughly extracts all the grease frcm 
the cloth, and the method is one of the best known 
for this purpose. To certain vegetable colorr-^, however, 
it is highly destructive, and in such cases should never 
be used; for other coloi-s it is entirely harmless. Dis- 
solve one q-iart of Lime in as much soft water as v»-ill 
dissolve tli3 Lime and leave about a quart of clear 
water, af. jr the solution has been well stirred and 
allowed to settle. Let it stand about two hours, and 
then decant the clear liquid from the dregs into another 
vessel. I^ow add to this clear liquid half an ounce of 
Pearlash; stir the mixture, and when it settles bottle 
for use. Before using, the liquid should be diluted with 
water to adapt it to the strength or delicacy of the 
color of the cloth. It is applied with a coarse sponge, 
rubbing out the grease, and rinsing with clear water 
afterward. 

273.-T0 REMOVE ACID STAINS. 



N 



OTHING can be better than Chloroform to restore 
the color of garments when destroyed by acids. 



215 

"When any acid has accidently or otherwlt-c destroyed 
or clianged the color of a ganneut, Aqua Aiunionia 
sliould tirt^t be applied to neutralize the stain. A siuh- 
Bcquent application of Chloroform will then rccloru the 
original color (204), As far as possible, treat the htaiu 
as soon as the accident happens. 



274.-T0 REMOVE ALKALINE STAINS, 

ODA, lye, and many other alkalic.; produce stains 
upon dark garments. Such stains can generally bo 
made to disappear by the prompt application of Acetic 
Acid. When the cause of any stiiin is known to be an 
alkali, saturate the spot with Acetic Acid, and the Acid 
should then be entirely removed by a liberal application 
of water, I'ure Cider Vinegar may be used instead of 
Acetic Acid. 



275~TO REMOVE PAINT AND WAX 
STAINS. 

FIRST remove with a knife, as mucli of the wax as 
possible, without injury to the cloth. Drop a lit- 
tle Benzoin on the stain and rub it gently with a sponge 



216 

repeating this process until tlie stain disappears. Stains 
caused by substances ot* a resinous nature, as turpen- 
tine, pitch, resin, &:c., may be removed by pure Alcoliol. 
To remove paint or varnish, Chloroform is the most 
successful agent that can be em. ployed, (211) (204). 



276.-STAIN METHOD FOR GENERAL 
APPLICATION. 

THIS method will remove stains of various kinds 
fro'u broadcloth, and in a great many cases will 
prove quite sufficient. Take an ounce of Pipe Clay 
that has been ground very fine, and mix it w itli twelve 
drops of pure Alcohol and the same quantity of Recti- 
fied Spirits of Turpentine. AVhen it is desired to re- 
move a stain from broadcloth, moisten a little of this 
mixture with Alcohol, and rub it on the spot; let it 
remain until dry, and when the powder is brushed off 
it will be found that the stain has disappe;i.red. 

The removal of stains is very thoroughly considered 
in the chapter on silks. Many of the metliods tliere pre- 
sented would apply equally as well to gentlemen's cloth- 
ing. It is unnecessary to repeat them here, but in case 
of stains in gentlemen's, clothes which do seem to be 



->17 



covered by the Jiiethotis in this departmeut, llie stain 
methods for silks (197) to (211), may profitably be con- 
sulted. 



277.-METH0D OF CLEANSING BROAD- 
CLOTH. 

THIS method for cleaning, or rather washing gentle- 
men's garment?, is presented with the assurance 
that it will give the very best of satisfaction, as it is one 
of the most effective methods that can be employed. 
Dissolve half a pound of Saleratus and one Beef Gall 
in four gallons of warm water. L-ay the garment on a 
table and scour it thoroughly in every part wdth a 
clothes brush dipped in this mixture ; the collar of a 
coat and the grease spots must be repeatedly rubbed, 
the brush being frequently dipped in the mixture. 
When this has been done, rinse the article up and dov»'u 
in the mixture; then rinse it up and down in a tub of 
cold soft water, and without wringing or pressing, hang 
it where there is a current of air to drain and dry. 
Fasten a coat up by the collar, and as it dries shake it 
occasionally and pull it into its proper shape to prevent 
it from shrinking. AVhen perfectly dry, it is sometimes 
the case with coats that nothing more is needed; in 



218 

other cases it may be necessary to dampen the parts 
which look wrinkled, and either pull them out smooth 
with the lingers or press them with a warm iron, plac- 
ing a piece of bombazine or thick woolen cloth between 
the iron and the article. Finish bj thoroughly airing. 
For dark colored cloth garments, it is a good plan to 
add some Fuller's Earth to the Gall mixture. "When 
nearly dry, the nap should be laid the right way and 
the garment carefully pressed; after whicli, a brush 
moistened with a drop or two of Olive Oil, should be 
passed over it several times, which will give it a fine' 
finish. Garments cleansed in this manner, provided 
the directions be strictly followed, will look just as well 
as new. We have often seen it tried with unfailing 
success. 



278-COLORED PANTALOONS. 

COLORED pantaloons look very well when washed 
as follows : Add one Beef Gall to about four gal- 
lons of fair warm water, and wash the pantloons in 
this mixture without using soap. "Without Avringing, 
hang them up to drain until partly dry, then lay them 
on a hard surface, and press them on the wrong side 
while slightly damp. 



319 



279 -CLEANSING GARMENTS V;iTH 
SOAP BARK. 

IN tropical countries there are trees bearing red 
saponaceous berries, wliich the inhabitants use as a 
substitute for soap in wasliing clothes; the bruised bark 
also produces a lather like soap, on being "agitated in 
wate-r. The detergent properties of Soap Bark are 
feuperior to soap, and it can be freely used on fine fabrics 
and delicate colors which would be injured by soap. 
So great is its value for cleansing purposes, that the 
ground bark is now an article of commerce and can be 
found in any drug store. It is admirable for cleaning 
cashmeres of delicate shades, silks and woolen goods; 
the greasiest coat collar, when other agents fail, can be 
perfectly cleansed by its use, and it will render the sorri- 
est old felt hat sailed with dirt and grease, as good as 
new. Soap Bark is prepared and used as follows: 
Dissolve a tablespoonful in a teacupful of boiling soft 
water. Any quantity in similar proportions, may be 
prepared and bottled for future use, nnd it is a good plan 
to always keep a bottle of it in the house. It is applied 
with a sponge, rubbing the article until it is saturated, 
and then rinsing in clear water. The solution is more 
effective when applied as hot as the hand can bear. It 



220 



can be freely used on any wliite goods, and is entirely 
harmless to the finest colors. Five cents worth of Soap 
Bark will renovate a gentleman's w^hole wardrobe. 



280.-TO RENOVATE RUSTY BLACK 
CLOTH. 

DISSOLVE an ounce of Aniline Black in a bowlful 
of boiling water. First sponge the articles well 
with soap and hot water, rubbing the nap down with 
the sponge ; then sponge them all over with the Ani- 
line Dye, being careful to keep them smooth and to 
brush downward. In this simple manner, faded or 
rusty black clothes can be given a perfect black, and 
the color will not crock or rub off. 



281.-T0 RAISE THE NAP ON CLOTH. 

WHEN cloth has worn glossy its original appear- 
ance can be restored by this method, or even 
where it has worn threadbare the nap may be raised. 
Soak the garment about an hour in cold water, which 
will swell the fibres and cause it to thicken. Now 
put it on a hard surface and rub the threadbare por- 



221 



tion with a half-Worn hatter's card, or a prickly thistle 
until the nap is raised. Hang it up to dry and with a 
stiff brush lay the nap the right way. 



282.-SPRINGING PANTS. 

IT is well known tliat pants made by a regular tailor 
have a much superior set than when ^^made by a 
tailoress. The chief point of superiority is the perfect 
spring at the ankles, by which the p:int> curve out 
symmetrically and hang faultlessly over tlie shoes. 
There is no reason, however, wlij' a lady sliould not be 
able to accomplish this; it requires a little strength 
and that is about all. It may be done as follows, with 
an ordinary sad-iron. The front half on each leg only 
is sprung and the spring begins about seven or eight 
inches from the bottom. Fold the cloth in the length 
exposing the wrong side, and as the outside seam is 
farther in front than the inside seam have the fold a 
third nearer the outside edge, so that the spring maybe 
directly in front. Make the cloth quite damp and 
have the iron as hot as possible without scorching. 
Pressing tlio iron upon the cloth with the right hand, 
pull the cloth with the left u^ing considerable strength, 
and at the same time give the iron a twisting move- 
ment, until the required curve is sprung. By making 



223 

an experiment upon & piece of cloth it Avill be seen 
how readily cloth may 1)o sprung. 

Thi> CorniLi;a,teJ Cllo-Bing Iron (13,) is v.'ell adapted 
for springiui^' clot'.i, fur i:i tuj twisting process, the 
ridge-3 hold the clotli witliowt slipping. Cut after a 
good pattern and jiroperly sprung, pants made at home 
will set as elegantly a^ when made Ly the fashionable 
merchant tailor. 



283.-PRESS1NG PANTS. 

NEW pants, no matter ho'.v good tiie material or 
how well made, soon draw up and become baggy 
at the knees. This difficulty may be easily remedied. 
Draw eacli leg over a narrow press board, dampen the 
goods, and press out t'le sag witli a hot iron, having an 
old cotton cloth between the material and the iron, to 
prevent scorching or glazing. After the pants have 
once drawn up and been pressed ont, the sags are not 
so liable to return. 



284.~MAKING OLD CLOTHES NEW. 



T 



URNlI^G garments is an ingenious way of making 
them last a long time. Shabby coats, overcoats, 



233 

vests, pants, and .even old faded liats, v\-lien the elotli is 
reversible, may be readily turned and the result is a 
new article. There are large linns engaged in this 
business; cast-off clothing is bought up and after bein^'' 
skillfully turned is sold again as new goods, tlie most 
acute observer failing to detect the fraud. Now if you 
are liable to buy an old garment that has thus been 
made new, would it not be advisable to have the turn- 
ing done at home and receive the benefit of the econ- 
omy. Tlie process is very simple and tlie expense 
trifling. Take off the binding and separate the out- 
side cloth from the lining, then rip the seams apart and 
reverse the cloth, thus exposing the bright new side. 
No cutting or fitting is required, and it is only neces- 
sary to attach the cloth to the same lining again, sew 
on new binding and buttons, and the result is a bran 
new garment. The only care to be taken is in revers- 
ing the buttonholes, but this may be done so neatly 
that they will never show that they have been worked 
over; or the buttonholes may be sewed together and 
the buttons sewed above them and then new button- 
holes worked in the other side. Very frequently the 
wrong side has a different color, and when turned an 
intimate friend would admire the new suit. Twilled 
and basket goods and also blue flannel or otlier woolen 
goods that have a finish on the wrong side may be pro- 
fitably reversed ; and in a similar manner a soft felt 



224 

hat may be turned. This process i^ better than elean- 
ing or dyeing. Ladies are ever turning their wearing 
appare], wliy not treat gentlemen's clothes with the 
same prudent regard. Try it and the result will be 
astonishing. The great economy to be gained surely 
recommends this process. 




-i-^jo 



CHAPTER XIII 



285.-REN0VATION OF CARPETS. 

TO most gentlemen house cleaning is associated with 
cold dinners and a grand uproar. ISTo doubt the 
ordeal is as great for ladies; and the methods in this 
department are presented with the confidence that they 
will be welcome. It is on such occasions that the city 
husband appreciates the amenities of city life, for in 
nearly every large city there are men whose sole occu- 
pation is the renovation of carpets. They are profes- 
sional carpet cleaners and do a thriving business. 
Under their skillful management the most soiled in- 
grain, tapestry, Brussels, or Turkish carpet is renovated, 
and no one would know but what it was a new carpet. 
They go to a dwelling, take up the carpet, thoroughly 
renovate it and place it on the floor again, looking like 
a carpet fi-csh from the store; the entire work being 
done in an incredibly short time. The secret of their 
success in making soiled carpets look so well is, that 
although the carpets are thoroughly washed and rinsed 



236 



they are at no stage of tlie operation allowed to become 
soaked through. The following is the process, a little 
modified to adapt it for home use. 



286.--CARPET CLEANERS' METHOD, 

WHEN the carpet is taken up, hang it on a line or 
lay it on the grass and whip it first on one side 
and then on the other, with pliant whips until entirely 
free from dust. Have the floor thoroughly scoured 
and dried and tack down the carpet firmly. If the 
carpet is so much soiled as to require further cleaning 
proceed as follows. Take a pailfnl of cold spring 
water and put into it about three gills of Ox Gall; 
and take a second pailfnl of clear cold water and add 
sufficient Vinegar to produce a sour taste. Now with 
a soft scrubbing brusli, rub some of the Ox Gall Water 
upon the carpet and scour briskly, which will raise a 
lather; then wash the hither off with a sponge dipped 
in the Vinegar Water. To prevent the carpet from 
being soaked througli, scour only a yard S(|uare at a 
time. Frequentl'y change the Vinegar Water. As 
soon as the lather is removed rub the carpet with a 
clean dry cloth. When the washing is finished, open 
the windows to allow the carpet to dry more quickly. 
Any particularly dirty spots should be rubbed with 



227 

nearly pure Gall. A carpet treated in this manner 
will be greatly refreshed in colors, particularly the 
greens. 

287-GREASE SPOTS. 

THE method employed by carpet cleaners for ex- 
tracting grease spots is very speedy and simple. 
Grate on the spots a thick layer of Potter's Clay, cover 
it with a sheet of brown paper and set on a warm iron. 
The heat of the iron melts the grease and the Potter's 
Clay ab>.orbs it^ and the powder can bo afterwards 
s.wept off. It may be necessary to repeat the process 
several times to extract all the grease. Care should be 
taken not to liave the iron too hot, try it first on a 
piece of white paper, if it turn the paper brown or 
scorch it in the least, it is too hot. 



288-BORAX WATER. 

ANOTHER effectual way to extract grease spots 
from carpets is by the use of Borax AYater. Mix 
a little soap in a gallon of soft water and add an ounce 
of Borax. Wash the spots well with this solution, 
applying it with a piece of clean soft flannel, and the 



228 



gi'ease spots will soon disappear. If there are grease 
spots on the floor, remove tliem with Potter's Claj, 
(299), before the carpet is taoked down. 



289™OIL ON CARPETS, 

WHEISTEYEII oil is spilt on carpets apply as soon 
as possible plenty of Wheat Flour or Whiting, 
wliieli will absorb the oil and keep it from spreading. 
If the oil is near tJie seams rip them apart and put 
Whiting on the floor under the carpet. Xext day 
sweep up all the Flour above and under the carpet, 
and if the oil has not entirely disappeared, again apply 
the Flour. 



290.-MAGNESIA PASTE. 

ALMOST any kind of grease spots may be removed 
from carpets by Magnesia Fastc. Scrape and 
pound toget])(>r ]\ragnesia in the lump and Fuller's 
Earth, equal (juantities of each, and after the ingre- 
dients are well mixed, pour over them a quantity of 
boiling water, sufficient to convert them into a paste. 
Lay the past/> as hot as possible upon the grease spots 
and after it has remained about a day, and the compo- 



239 

sition has become dry, brush it off and it will be found 
that the spots have disappeared, (238). This method 
is valuable, especially for Brussels or carpets of thick 
texture. 



291.-CARPETS SLIGHTLY SOILED. 

OFTEN Carpets that are but slightly soiled may be 
cleaned and brightened by this simple treatment. 
After the dHist has been thoroughly whipped out, spread 
the carpet on the clean dry floor and ta(Jv it down 
Fare some raw potatoes and grate them over the car- 
pet, then rub them about with a new broom, which 
process will refresh the carpet greatly. Let it become 
thorouglily dry before walking on it. 



292.-TO PREVENT MOTHS IN CARPETS. 

ANY one of a benevolent disposition, who has ever, 
on house-cleaning day observed the prudent house- 
wife attentively examine the edges of carpets for 
moths, would surely wish that these little insects grew as 
large as bed bugs, so that such excessive straining of 
the eves miorht be avoided. 



230 

When carpets are taken up, if there is any appear- 
ance of moths, sprinkle powdered Brimstone on the 
floor, befor the carpet is laid down again, and it is a 
good plan to let it remain after the carpet is tacked 
down. Tobacco and Black Pepper are also much used 
for this purpose, and will effectually guard against 
moths. 

293.-T0 PRESERVE CARPETS. 

IT is very advisable in laying down carpets, to first 
cover the floor with large sheets of paper, which 
will prevf^it the dust from rising between the boards, 
and where the floor is uneven, it will prevent the car- 
pet from being cut by the sharp edges of the flooring. 
By adopting this precaution a carpet will last much 
longer. Straw matting is better than straw to })lace 
underneath car])ets, as the matting is smooth and even 
and the dust v.-ill not sift through it. 

294.-TRANSP0SING THE BREADTHS. 

THIS prudent plan of managing carpets is doubtless 
familiar to many ladies, but to others it may be a 
novelty. Certain portions of the carpet about the 
entry and around the hearth, which are the most nsed^ 
always wear rapidly, while the back breadths that are 
little used, remain as bright and crood as nov.-. nefore 



231 

the most exposed parts are too badly worn, it ia good 
policy to transpose the breadths and bring the unused 
portions into service. The whole carpet can be tliuti 
made to wear eTenl3'' and twice the usual service will 
be obtained. 

295-STAlR CARPETS. 

STAIR carpets should always have a strip of paper 
placed underneath them. The strip should be 
placed just over the edges of each stair-step, as this 
is the place where the carpet generally first wears 
through. The friction of the carpet against' the boards 
underneath will be thereby lessened. The strijiS 
should be about four or five inches in breadth, and 
within an inch or two as long as the carpet is wide. 
This plan will preserve a stair carpet in good condition 
a much longer time than it would otherwise keep. A 
strip of old carpet answers better than paper. 

296-SWEEPlNG CARPETS. 

PERSONS who are accustomed to use refuse tea 
leaves while sweeping the carpet and find that they 
leave stains, will do well to employ fresh cut grass in- 
stead. It is better than tea leaves for preventing dust 
and gives the carpet a very bright fresh look. Moist 



233 

Bread is also good. In the room of the sick, strew 
fresh cut grass and flowers cut in pieces or pulled 
apart, over the carpet before sweeping. They will give 
a sweet pleasant fragrance, quite agreeable tc the pa- 
tient, and thev will prevent the dust from rising. 

297 -MANAGEMENT OF BROOMS, 

iY bestowing a little extra care upon brooms, ladies 
can coulinunlly receive the benefit expressed in the 
familiar adage, "a new broom sweeps clean.'' On 
every wa?!iing day, immerse the brooms for a few 
minute? iu boiling soap-suds, which process wiil render 
the broo.u-head pliantly tough, so tliat it will never 
cut the carpet. When brooms are not in use, ladies 
usually stand them against the wall, and the weight of 
the broom causes the broom straws to bend out of their 
proper shape. If they are always hung up by the 
handle, this trouble will be avoided. Managed in the 
above manner a broom vrill last much longer and 
always sweep like a new broom. 

298.-FLOORS. 

IN some countries it is not customary to cover the 
floors with carpet. Throughout all the Southern 
States, the absence of carpets is especially noticeable; 



283 

many a county in tiic Sduth might be traversed and 
not a single carpet r^ecn even among tlie wealthiest 
classes. The tidy liousevrives of tho^e countries, how- 
ever, are as particular about keeping the floor of the 
best room clean and spotleb!^, as they would be about 
the choicest Brussels carpet. Nothing of course can 
excel a thorough scrubbing with soap and water to 
clean dirty floors, but there arc many substances, how- 
ever, like oil, grease and ink, wliich penetrate into the 
pores of tlie wood, and cannot be extracted with soap 
and water. To remove such stains a special treatment 
is required. 



299.-0IL AND GREASE SPOTS. 

TO remove oil or grease spots i'rom floors, employ 
the following method. Take a quarter of a pound 
each of Fuller's Earth and Pearlash, and boil them in 
a quart of soft water, While the mixture is hot, lay 
some of it on the spots and allow it to remain about 
ten or twelve hours, at the expiration of which time, 
scour off the mixture M'ith sand and vrater. If a floor 
is badly covered with grease spots, it should be wash.ed 
over with this mixture the day before it is scoured. 
Fuller's Earth and Ox Gall boiled together, form a 
very j^owcrful cleansing mixture for fl.oors. Strong 



234 

Pearlash water mixed with sand, and rubbed on floors 
or tables stained with grease, is also considered one 
of tlie most effective means that can be used to extract 
grease, 

SOO.-INK, PAINT, VARNISH, &C. 

INK stains upon floors, and also stains produced bj 
any liquid containing coloring matter, can always 
be removed as follows: When soap and water will not 
affect these stains, wasli them thoroughly with very 
strong • Vinegar or salts of Lemon. Paint, varnish, 
&c., can be removed from floors by Spirits of Turpen- 
tine or chloroform. The several classes of stains in- 
cluded in this method can be removeil from carpets 
also by the use of the same agents. 

301-TO KEEP FLOORS OF A GOOD 
COLOR. 

AN excellent way to scour floors and at the same 
time keep them of a good color, is the following: 
Mix together Lime one part; sand three parts, soft-soap 
two parts. Apply a little of this mixture to the floor 
with the scrubbing brush and rub thoroughly; then 
rinse with clean water and rub dry. This will also 
tcep away all sort of vermin. 



233 



302.-MAHOGANY COLOR FOR FLOORS. 

IT often happens that diuing-rooni, kitchen, and other 
floors are exceedingly troublesome, consequent upon 
repeated spilling of grease, and upon coiitiuued care 
and M'orry on the part of the tidj housewife, in striving 
to guard against such accidents. The finest hotels and 
most aristocratic families have rec(Mitly adopted an 
admirable plan of dressing floors, which give to them a 
rich brown or mahogany-like color, thus entirely doing 
away with spotting and scouring of grease spots. 
Take quarter of a pound of Burnt Umber to half 
gallon of Linseed Oil, and add a small quantity of 
Litharge, to act as a dryer. Mix the ingredients and 
heat to a boiling temperature, then while the prepara- 
tion is hot, rub it into the floor with a flannel cloth. 
If preferred a small (puintity of Spanisli Brown may 
be added, which will give a still brighter hue. If a 
a fine finish is desired, the floor may be occasionally 
wiped with a waxed brush or cloth. The above quan- 
tity of the dressing will be ample for a room of mode- 
rate size. A floor thus dressed should never be scoured 
with soap, sand, or any other scouring preparation 
whatever. When it becomes soiled by the settling of 
dust, (which is likely to be till repeated washings), 
merely wash it with skim milk, butter-milk, or even 



236 

dish water. This treatment of floors possesses several 
advantages: it is decidedly labor saving, as the floor 
never requires scouring — even if grease falls upon it 
there will be no spot; again., it is cconoinical, fur no 
soap need ever be applied. The prime object, l;o'.vc\er, 
is to give the floor the same elegant appearance tmd 
rich color possessed by old mahogany furniture. The 
dressing should be repeated at least once in twelve 
months. 



SOa-CLEANING STRAW MATTING. 

THAW matting may be readily cleaned and its color 
preserved by this treatment. Make a solution of 
Salt and soft water, using considerable salt, but have it 
completely dissolved. Rub the matting with a large 
course cloth, frequently dipping it in the solution; after 
which, the matting should be well wiped until dry. 
The use of the Salt will prevent straw matting from 
turning yellow. 



304-CARE OF OIL CLOTHS. 

To clean oil cloths and keep them looking fresh, 
wash them once a month with skim milk and 
water, in equal proportions; then every three months 



237 

wash them in boiled Linseed Oil. Use very little oil, 
but rub it well in with a rag, and then polish with a 
piece of old silk. With this kind of treatment oil- 
cloths will last for years and always have a bright 
appearance. Never use a brush, or soap, or very hot 
water, as the paint will be thereby injured. 



305 -OIL MARKS UPON WALL PAPER. 

THOUGHTLESS persons are quite prone to tilt 
back a chair and rest their heads against the costly 
papered wall of the parlor or drawing room ; and the 
invariable result is a conspicuous oil mark. Visitors 
children too, delight to pass their greasy hands over 
satin wall paper, to see if it really is as soft as it looks, 
or they try to pick of the gilt flowers. The mistress of 
the house views the mischief with dismay, but polite- 
ness keeps her silent. These oil marks may be removed 
however, as follows: Mix to the consistency of cream 
finely ground Pipe Clay with water. Put a layer of 
the creamy mixture upon the spots and let it remain 
imtil dry. It will dry by the following day, when the 
powder may be easily removed with a penknife or brush. 
The drying may be liastened by covering the mixture 
wnth a sheet of paper, and then applying for a few 
seconds, an iron only moderately warm. On using 



238 

India Rubber to remove the dust taken up by the 
grease, the paper will be found restored to its original 
whiteness and opacity. This simple method has proved 
highly successful, and was remarkably so in an instance 
where the folio of a ledger had exhibited the marks of 
candle grease and snuff for more than twelve months. 




^ — ^-^ 



%? 



CHAPTER XIV, 



306.-RENOVATION OF BEDDING AND 
FEATHERS. 

IT is a curious condition of our existence that about 
eight liours in every twenty-four, a third of a life- 
time, must be passed in repose. Then too, the scenes, 
sights, and sensations of dreamland are pleasanter, and 
ofttinies far more' thrilling or frightful than real ones. 
Nothing can excel a good bed for genuine luxury. 
What a sweet sense of comfort it imparts, when after 
the worry and labor of the day, its never failing aid is 
souglit to invigorate the fatigued brain or muscles, and 
liow rehictantly is tiie cosy nest among the soft feath- 
ers relinquished on cold mornings. Feather beds are 
iKMr-Iooms highly prized. Often they are transmitted 
from mother to daughter, and from grandara to pos- 
terity until they become nearly as cherished a family 
heritage as ancestral estates. Feather beds never 



240 

wear out, but with age and use the ticking becomes 
soiled and the feathers heavy and matted together; 
yet by proper renovation from time to time they will 
afford many generations comfort. 

A few methods are presented. Xo apology need be 
offered for their introduction in the Chemical Laundry 
Guide, for the value of such methods is shown by tlie 
premiums awarded them by societies devoted to the 
interests of science and art. 



307.-RENEWAL OF FEATHER BEDS. 

IN cities there are establishments where feather beds 
are perfectly renovated by steam, but the process 
employed would be impracticable for home use. By 
the accompanying simple treatment, however, feather 
beds that have become soiled and heavy can be readily 
rendered clean, sweet, and light. At first sight, the 
process may appear to be detrimental, yet it is not 
only an easy method, but attended with perfect suc- 
cess. Without emptying the beds, thoroughly scour 
the ticking with a clean stiff brush and strong hot 
soap-suds ; then lay them on the roof of a shed or 
some other clean place where the rain will fall on 
them. In very dry weather, th.ey may be made wet 



241 

by several thorough Bprinklings witli a watering pot, 
but the wetting is much better effected by the rain. 
When thoroughly soaked, let them dry in tlie hot rays 
of the sun for six or seven consecutive days. Shake 
them up well and turn them over cxery day. If 
exposed to the night air they will become damp and 
then mildew, so they should bo covered during the 
night, for the idea is, after they are once soaked 
through, to have them continue to dry witiiout receiv- 
ing additional moisture. Tliis plan of washing the 
bed-ticking and feathers makes them very fresh and 
light. It is far easier than the usual mode of empty- 
ing the beds and washing the feathers separately, and 
it answers quite as well. Care must be taken to 
thoroughly air the bed before using it. 



a38.-CLEANSING FEATHERS. 

THE following method of cleansing feathers of their 
animal oil gained a premium from the English 
Society of Arts. To every gallon of clean water that 
is used add a pound of Quicklime. Stir the Lime 
and water well together, and when the undissolved 
Lime precipitates in a fine powder, pour off the clear 
Lime water for use. Put the feathers to be cleansed 
into a tul), and pour over them a sufficient quantity of 



243 

the solution to cover them about two inches, after they 
have been well stirred about therein, and allowed to 
settle. Wlien thoroughly moistened, the feathers will 
sink to the bottom, and should be allowed to thus soak 
for three or four days; then lay them on a sieve to 
drain off all the foul liquor. The feathers should be 
afterwards washed in clean water and dried upon nets, 
the meshes of which may be about the fineness of cab- 
bage nets. They should be shaken on the nets from 
time to time, and as they dry they will fall through 
the meshes and are to be collected for use. Plenty of 
air will be serviceable while they are drying. The 
process will be completed in about three weeks; and 
after being thus treated, the feathers will only need 
beating to free them from any dust which may have 
settled on them. 



309-HAIR MATTRESSES. 

HAIH mattresses, even the most expensive ones, by 
nse soon become hard and uneven, and are then 
anything but comfortable. The reason why they get 
in this condition in so short a time is, tliat at manufac- 
tories where hair mattresses are made, the hair was 
never properly picked free from bunches. The hair is 
usually stored away in large quantities, where it be- 



243 

comes matted together in knots and bunches. In this 
condition it is made into mattresses, and although at 
first the mattress seems smooth and even, as soon as it 
sustains a continued weight, as a person Ijing upon it, 
tiie bunches become apparent. If a mattress that has 
become haru and dirty be subjected to the accompa. 
nying treatment, it will be rendered a better mattress 
than when first bought. Simply rip the ticking apart 
and wash it; then carefully pick the hair free from 
])unches and let it reiriain in a dry airy place for seve- 
ral days. When the ticking is dry, fill it lightly 
with the hair and tack it together. The liair is not 
likely to again get in bunches. 



310.-W ASHING BED FURNITURE. 

IN washing all sorts of heavy bed furniture it is a 
wise plan, before immersing the articles in water, to 
shake olF or beat out as much of the dust as possible, 
as thereby the labor of cleansing will be greatly do- 
creased. In the case of colors, and especially mixed 
colors, no Soda, Pearlash, or Washing Crystal should 
be used, as the colors might be injured. Mottled soap 
is the best to employ for these articles, and use plenty 
of soft water, not hot, but warm. On wringing out of 
the second washing water, dip each piece immediately 



244 

into cold hard water for finishing. Shake them out 
well and let them dry as quickly as possible. If it be 
desirable to starch them, the starch may be stirred into 
the rinsing water. 



311.-HEAVY COUNTERPANES AND 
QUILTS. 

IN the case of very heavy cottons, counterpanes, 
quilts, itc, which to wash and wring in the usual 
way is very tiresome, a mode of scouring may be 
adopted with advantage. Cut into thin slices a pound 
of mottled soap and add a quarter of an ounce of 
Potash and an ounce of Pearlash ; then pour a pailful 
of boiling water over the mixture, and let it stand un- 
til the ingredients completely dissolve. Now put into 
the scouring tub a pailful or more of v arm water and 
a bowlful of the soap solution. Lay in the counter- 
pane and pound it well witli a clothes pounder, often 
turning the counterpane over in the tub. When this 
has been done, wring it across a hook or wooden peg, 
which manner of wringing is effected as follows. 
Swing the middle of the counterpane over the peg, 
turn the opposite ends of the article around each other, 
place a clean clothestick between them, and then 



245 

wring by twisting caronnd the stick. In this Wcaj the 
article may be wrung with ease and as dry as possible ; 
the liarder it is wrung witliout tearing it, the better. 
After this first scouring, pass the counterpane through 
a second liquor prepared like the first. Wring it out 
again and rinse in clear cold water. (The first and 
second liquors need not be wasted, but other cotton or 
woolen articles may be passed through them.) Now 
pour into the rinsing tub a sufiicient quantity of boil- 
ing water and add a small quantity of the soap solu- 
tion, just enough to produce a thiii lather; then add 
about three tablespoon fuls of liquid blue, and the acid 
of the blue acting upon the alkali of the Pearlash and 
soap will cause a slight fermentation or effervesencc. 
Stir this blue liquid w^ith a stick and immerse the 
counterpane. Again use the pounder about five min- 
utes and the counterpane will be colored a fine azure 
blue of light shade, but as it dries in the sun and M-ind 
the blue mostly disappears, leaving a brilliant white. 



312.-BED COVERS IN RELIEVO OR 
EMBOSSED WORK. 



BED furniture of embossed patterns, or ornamented 
with prominent flowered figures, or fashioned in 



246 

relievo or raised work, require a special treatment in 
ironing, or else tlie embossed and relievo work will be 
all pressed together and the prominent portions apt to 
become glazed. In fact, they onght not to be sub- 
mitted at all to the usual process of smoothing, but 
should be folded while quite damp as in (313), then 
laid between two clean boards or table leaves, a heavy 
weight placed above, and in this position allowed to 
dry. Treated in this way the embossed pattern will 
have a clear outline. 



313.-IRONING AND FOLDING SHEETS, 
BED SPREADS, &C. 

THE following method of folding sheets, counter- 
panes, and bed spreads allows the articles to be 
conveniently spread over the bed, and in the case of 
outside bed spreads, the creases made by the folds will 
disappear. It is the plan used by the soldiers of the 
French army for folding army blankets. It is unneces- 
sary to iron but one side, and the proper side to iron 
is usually the right side, but sometimes when the 
counterpane is of a choice design of flowers or raised 
work, it is best to apply the iron to the wrong side. 
Beo-in by folding the article lengthwise with the sur- 



247 

face that is to be ironed on the inside; then take tlie 
outer edges and bring tliem even with the middle 
crease, tlnis exposing for ironing half of the surface 
that was folded in, a breadth above and a breadth 
underneath. After both of these breadths are ironed, 
bring over the newly formed creases even with the 
middle crease, and two new breadths will be exposed 
for ironing, one above and the other underneath. 
After ironing these new breadths, reverse the middle 
crease, which will bring the last formed creases even, 
and when the unironed portion thus exposed above and 
underneath is smoothed, one surface of the article will 
be ironed and properly folded lengthwise. Now fold it 
crosswise and bring the outer ends even with the mid- 
dle crease, and the ironing and folding of the bed 
spread will be completed. 



314.-BED BUGS. 

THE discussion of the renovation of beds and bed- 
ding cannot be more appropriately dismissed than 
by presenting a bed bug exterminator. History does 
not record the time when man was first annoyed by bed 
bugs; so their advent is a matter of speculation. They 
can hardly be of ancient origin, however, for they 



248 

would surely have been included in the plagues that 
were sent to make the hard heart of Pharoah relent. 
The presence of chinches is usnally regarded as an 
index of filth and careless housekeeping, yet such is not 
always the case, however. In large cities especially, 
nearly every family is troubled with these little pests. 
The walls and floors of houses contain millions of them, 
and unless the greatest precaution is taken they will 
not remain there, but sally forth on nightly forages. 
Again, the former occupants of a house may have loft 
them, and wlicn discovered by the tidy honsewife she 
has "conniptions." There may also be imported cases 
but it would hardly be convenient to place a quaran- 
tine upon visitors. By stringent measures, however, 
the enemy may be vanquished. 

3I5.-TO DESTROY THEM WHEN IN 
THE WALLS AND FLOOR. 

BED bugs may be totally annihilated when in the 
walls and floors by the fumes of burning Sulphur. 
Close tightly every crack, tire-place, window and door 
of the room, then for several honrs let Brimstone burn 
on Charcoal in an iron kettle. Afterward thoroughly 
air the room. This plan will also effectually destroy 
cockroaches. 



249 



316.-T0 KEEP THEM AWAY FROM 
THE BEDS. 

THE most successful substance that can be employed 
for driving away chinches is Quicksilver. It can- 
not be applied by itself, but requires a vehicle or 
menstruum to convey it. It is frequently mixed with 
Lard, but the "Whites of Eggs are much superior, 
for a mixture of Quicksilver and Eggs will not in the 
least injure the furniture. To the Wliites of four or 
five Eggs add about a tablespoonful of Quicksilver, and 
cream the whole well together. Be sure to add the 
Quicksilver before beating the Eggs. Apply the mix- 
ture with a feather wherever they " most do congre- 
gate." Tansy strewn over the slats or sacking bottom 
of the bed is very eifectual for driving them away. 
Filling the crevices of the bedstead with Putty, or if 
old, painting or varnishing it, will often keep them 



317.-SPIRITS OF NAPHTHA. 



SPIRITS of Naphtha rubbed with a small painter's 
brush into every part of the bedstead is a quite 



250 

Biire way of freeing it from bugs. The mattress and 
binding of the bed should be examined and the same 
process applied there, as they generally harbor more in 
these parts than in the bedstead. Five cents worth of 
Naphtha is sufficient for one bed. 



^*fS 







318.-EXPLANATION OF INDEX. 

THE General Index has been arranged with a view 
of making it of the most convenience possible for 
ready reference. It will be readily seen by glancing 
over its columns, that the promise of the Chemical 
Laundry Guide has been fulfilled : — tluit there is 
scarcely an article of any material that admits of wash- 
ing or renovating, but what has been considered; that 
there is hardly a method or process employed by the 
professional Launderer that has not been presented. 
The numbers in the Index, as well as the numerals 
throughout the book, refer to the numbers of the meth- 
ods, and not to the page numbers. The m.ethods are ar- 
ranged alphabetically; and when any reference is sought, 
refer to the noun representing the desired process, or to 
the name of the material under treatment, and not to 
qualifying words, for examples ; if it be desirable to raise 
the plush of velvet, a suitable method is given under 
Velvets ; if point lace is to be renovated, refer to Laces; 
if a wine stain is to be extracted, the process will be 
found in the column of Stains. The Index, however, 



352 

is very complete and difficult}' in finding any method 
will rarely happen. Each chapter too, prevents a dis- 
tinct department of skillful laundry work. Whenever 
any delicate laundry experiment is proposed, or when 
a difficult laundry operation would be of advantage 
but is deemed perhaps impossible, it always will be 
profitable to refer to the Chemical Laundry Guide. 






319-GENERAL INDEX. 



Advantages of Corrugated Glossing Iron 14 

Alpacas — Oriental Method of Washing 172 

Alpacas — Treatment of 164 

Aniline Blue 61 

Antimacassars — Ironing 230 

Applying Starch to Shirts 8 

Aromatic Herbs 128 

Bedding — Renovation of. 306 

Bed Bugs 314 

Bed Bugs — To destroy in Walls and Floors 315 

Bed Bugs — To keep away from Beds 316 

Bed Covers in Relievo or Embossed Work 312 

Bed Furniture — Washing 310 

Beds— Renewal of Feathers 307 

Bed Spreads — Folding and Ironing 313 

Beetles — To keep away from Linen 130 



254 

Benzoin — Ctiution in Using 213 

Benzoin Stains — To remove 212 

Black Reviver — For Silks and Leather 219 

Blankets— Ironing Woolen 186 

Bleach — For Brown Sheeting 39 

Bleach— For Fade:l Articles 174 

"Bleach"— Laundry 39 

Bleaching AVhlto Goods — German Method 40 

Bleaching Wool 195 

Bleaching AVoolens and Flannels 191 

Blond Lace— To Revive 233 

Blond Lace— To Wash 232 

Bine Anihnc 61 

Bl ue— Chinese Solu able 62 

Blueing Clothes 60 

Bobbinets— Starch for 28 

Bombazet — Treatment of 171 

Bombazine — Treatment of 164 

Book Muslin— W^ ashing 171 

Broad Cloth— Cleaning 277 

Brocatello Tapestry 226 

"Broke Water"— Method of Preparing 51 

Brooms — Man agemen t of 297 

C 

Calicos — Treatment of 164 

Cambrics — Treatment of. 171 



255 

Cainbrics — A\''asliing — Oriental Method 172 

Care of Lin en 127 

Care of Linen — An Agreeable Perfume 131 

Care of Linen — Disinfecting 136 

Care of Linen — Lavender Scent Bag 129 

Care of Linen — Laying away Summer Goods 133 

Care of Linen — Marking Articles 131 

Care of Linen — To keep away Moths, &c 130 

Care of Oil Cloths 304 

Care of Sad-Irons 21 

Care of Shirt Board 12 

Carpets — Renovation of 285 

Carpets — Borax 288 

Carpets — Carpet Cleaners' Method 283 

Carpets — Carpets slightly Soiled 291 

Carpets — Grease spots 287 

Carpets — Magnesia Paste 290 

Carpets— Oil on Carpets 289 

Carpets — Stair 295 

Carpets — Sweeping 296 

Carpets— To Preserve 293 

Carpets — To prevent Moths 292 

Carpets — Transposing the Breadths 294 

Chintzes — Treatment of 164 

Chocolate Stains 100 

Clay Stains — Red Shale and Clay 121 

Clothes — Assorting 59 



256 

Clothes Lines — To Preserve 24 

Clothes Pins~To Preserve 24 

Clothing — Gentlemen's 270 

Clothing — Cleaning with Soap Bark 279 

Clothing — Cleaning Woolen 1 89 

Clothing — Cleansing Broadcloth 277 

Clothing — Colored Pantaloons 278 

Clothing— General Stain Method 276 

Clothing — Grease Spots 271 

Clothing— Making Old Clothes New 284 

Clothing— Pearlash and Lime Liquid 272 

Clothing — Pressing Pants 283 

Clothing — Springing Pants 282 

Clothing— To Raise the Nap on Cloth 281 

Clothing— To Remove Acid Stains 273 

Clothing — To Remove Alkaline Stains 274 

Clothing — To Remove Paint and Wax Stains 275 

Clothing— To Render Water-Proof. 33 

Clothing— To Renovate Rusty Black 280 

Coffee Stains 100 

Collars — Construction of. 163 

Collars— Different Styles of. 162 

Collars — Molding or Twisting 17 

Collars — Raised Embroidery and Flowered 42 

Collars — Starching 9 

Colored Articles — Starch for 29 

Color of new goods rendered Permanent 170 



257 

Colors — Oriental Method of Washing 172 

Colors — Printed Goods of Delicate 164 

Colors — To Set Various 167 

Colors— Yegetable 58 

Contents 4 

Corrugated Glossing and Molding Iron 13 

Corrugated Glossing Iron — iVd vantages of. 14 

Corrugating Glossing Iron — Care of ... = .. 20 

Corrugated Glossing Iron — How to Operate 15 

Cotton — Stains on , 91 

Counterpanes — Ironing and Folding 313 

Counterpanes — To Wash Heavy 311 

Crape 228 

Crape Scarf — To Wash a 246 

Crape — To Restore Rusty Italian 244 

Crape— To Restore Stained Black 243 

Creamy Tint of Laces 237 

Crotchet — Ironing 230 

"Crutching"— Toilet Soap 85 

Cufis — Molding or shaping 17 

Cuffs — Starching 9 



13 



Damask Tapestry 226 

Disenfecting Apparel — Sure Method 136 



258 

Elderly Gentlemen's Shirt — Cutting and Making. ..159 

Embroidering New Linen 42 

Embroidery — To Iron 42 

Explanation of Index 318 

Extra Fine Gloss 16 

Family Eight 1 

Feather Beds — Renewal of ,307 

Feathers — Cleansing 308 

Feathers — Renovation of. 306 

Filtering AVater through Charcoal 46 

Filtering AVater through Spongy Iron 47 

Fire-Proof — To Render Garments 137 

Flannels 176 

Flannels.— A Quick Method for Bleaching 191 

Flannels— Hot Suds for 183 

Flannels — 1 roning Red 185 

Flannels — Shrinking. 180 

Flannels— To Produce a Beautiful AViiite 190 

Flannels — To Remove Grease from 177 

FlanneJs — To Restore the Glossy Finish of 192 

Flannels— To AA^ish Red 189 

Flannels — Abashing Choice 184 

Floors 298 



259 

Floors — To Ilemore Ink, Paint, Tarnish, &e 300 

Floors — Mahogany Color for 302 

Floors— Oil and Grease Spots 299 

Floors — To Keep of Good Color 301 

Flour Starch— To Make Good 27 

Folding Shirts — Laundry Style 19 

Folding Table Linen 45 

French Chalk 103 

French Scouring Drops 199 

Fruit Stains on Linen and Cotton 93 

Furs — Management of. 205 

Furs — Sable, Chincliilla, Squirrel, and Fitch 266 

Furs — Stretching 2G8 

Furs— To Keep away Moths 2C9 

Furs — White, Ermins, Minever, &c , 2G7 

Gauze— To Gloss and Finish 249 

General Index 319 

Gentlemen's Clothing 270 

Ginghams— Oriental Method of AV ashing 172 

Ginghams — Treatment of 1 64 

G loss— Extra Fine 10 

Glossing Iron— Corrugated Glossing and Molding... 13 

Glossing Iron. How to Operate 15 

Glossing Linen 6 

Glossy Finish of Woolens and Flannels 192 



m 

Glue Starch 30 

Grease Spots 122 

Grease Spots of Long Standing 178 

Grease — To Preserve 67 

Giii Pure D'Art — Lace — L'oning 230 

Gum Arabic Starch 28 

Handkerchiefs — Folding and Ironing 45 

Handkerchiefs — AVrinkles in Silk 251 

Hats, Felt— To Kenovate with Soap Bark 279 

Holders for Sad-Irons 23 

Honey Mixture 221 

Hose — Lamb's Wool 1 94 

Hose— To Whiten Flannel or Woolen 193 

Hose— Washing Silk 224 

I 

Indelible Ink 134 

Indelible Ink — Formula for Making 135 

Ink Spots— To Pemove 102 

Introduction to Fine Laundry Work 5 

Iron and Starch White Yests 41 

Ironing and Folding Table Linen 45 

Iron Kust— To Eeniove 101 

Isin o-lass Starch 31 



Javelle "Water 57 

Kid Gloves ,257 

Kid Gloves — French .260 

Kid Gloves — Ganleine 263 

Kid Gloves— Opera Kids of Light Shade 262 

Kid Gloves — Perfnine for 132 

Kid Gloves — Perfume for 264 

Kid Gloves — Stains on 258 

Kid Gloves— To Clean without AYettmg 261 

Kid Gloves— Washing 259 

L 

Laces 228 

Laces — Creamy Tint 237 

Laces — Curtains Laundrjing 43 

Laces — Curtains Laying Away 133 

Laces — Fine Thread 234 

Laces — L'oning 230 

Laces — Ironing Fme 231 

Laces — Magnesia and French Chalk for 238 

Laces — Parisian Method of Washing Point 235 

Laces — Perfume for Delicate , .132 

Lace&— Reviving Blond 233 



263 

Laces — Silver and Gold 340 

Laces — Sugar Sizing for 236 

Laces— To Clear Starch 229 

Laces— To Wash Black 239 

Laces— To Wash White Silk or Blond 232 

Lace Yeil— To Wash a Black 242 

Lace Veil— To Wash a White 241 

Lamas — Treatment of 1 64 

Lamas — Washing 171 

Lamas — AVasliing — Oriental MethoJ 172 

Laimdrj " Bleach " 38 

Lavender Scent Bag 129 

Lawns — Starch for 28 

Lawns — Treatment of , 1 64 

Lawns — Washing 171 

Lawns — Washing — Oriental Method 172 

Leather — Black Reviver for 220 

Lemon — Essential Salts 104 

Linens — Care of 127 

Linens — Glossing 

Linens — Laying Away for Summer .....133 

Linens — Marking 134 

Linens — Stains on 91 

Linens— Suits, Color and Lustre 44 

Linens — To Bestore Scorched 126 

Linens— To Whiten Yellow 37 

Lye— To Make Good 66 



268 



IM 



Mahogany Color for Floors = 302 

Matting— To Clean Straw 303 

Mattresses — Hair , 309 

Merinoes — Treatment of 16 i 

Merinoes — Washing 1 71 

Merinoes — Washing Oriental Method ..... = 1 72 

Mildew— To Extract.. 107 

Milk Stains ..114 

Modern Shirt Cutting and Making 144 

Molding Collars and Cuifs 17 

Moldcr — How to Operate 18 

Molding Iron 13 

Moths from Carpets 292 

Moths from Clothes 130 

Moths from Furs 269 

Mourning Dresses 243 

Mousse do Laines— Treatment of. 164 

Mousse de Laines — Washing 171 

Mousse de Laines — Washing — Oriental Method 172 

Muslins— Congree Starch for 34 

Muslins— To Shrink 140 

Muslins— To Starch 35 

Muslins— To Thicken and Stren£cthen 36 



£64 



IV 



Napkins — Ironing and Folding 45 

Napkins — Stained .... 99 

Napkins — Stains on AVliite 123 

Napkins — Vegetable Stains 92 

Naphtha for Bed Bugs 317 

Nap— To Raise on Cloth 281 

Nap — To Raise on Velvet 255 

O 

Oil Cloths— Care of. 304 

Oil Marks upon Wall Paper 305 

Ox Gall— To Preserve 168 

Ox Ga]i Soap 83 

Paint — To Extract from Any Material 210 

Pants — Pressing > 283 

Pants — Springing 282 

Patterns — Cutting Shirt 138 

Percales — Treatment of. 171 

Percales — French Method of Washing 173 

Percales — Oriental Method of Washing 172 

Perfume for Clothes 131 

Perfume for Kid Gloves 132 



265 

Perfume for Kid Gloves 264 

Piques — Treatment of. 171 

Piques — French Method of Washing 173 

Piques— Oriental Method of Washing 172 

Piques — To Starch , 35 

Plaid Shawls— To Wash —Scotch Method 187 

Plush on Velvet — To Raise 255 

Potato Liquor 218 

Potato Starch 26 

Preface 3 

Preparing Starch — Laundry Method 7 

Printed Goods of Delicate Colors 164 

Printed Goods — Washing. Oriental Method 172 

Printed Table Covers 175 

Prints — Agents for Special Colors 169 

Prints — General Hints for Ironing 166 

Prints— General Hints for AVashing 165 

Prints— French Method of Washing 173 

Prints— Oriental Method of Washing Bright 172 

Prints— To Bleach Faded Articles 171: 

Prints — To Render Colors Permanent 170 

Prints— To Set Various Colors 167 

Prints— AVashing Goods of Delicate Colors 171 

Purchasing Contract 2 

Quick Method of Bleaching Flannel 191 



260 
Quilts — To "Wash and Wring Heavy 311 

li 

Kibbons 228 

EibbonB 24T 

Ribbons Creased 250 

Ribbons — Isinglass Sizing for 240 

Ribbons — Perfume for 1S2 

Ribbons Soiled 24S 

Ribbons— To Stiffen 252 

Ribbons — Wrapping 253 

Rose Pink 63 

"Rough Dry" — Laying Away Summer Goods...... 133 

Rust Eaten Sadirons 22 



S 



Sad-irons— Care of «•• 20 

Sad-irons— Encrusted with Oxide ". 22 

Sad-irons — Holders 23 

Sad-irons— Scouring 21 

Satins 228 

Satins— Colored or White— To Wash 217 

Satins— Detergent Fluid 202 

Satins— Treatment of........ 247 

Satins— To Clean White and Flowered 256 

Satins— To Extract Grease from 254 



867 

Scarf— To Wash a China Crape 246 

Scarf— Wrinkles in Silk 251 

Shawls, Plaid— Scotch Method of Washing 187 

Shawls— Washing Silk ..225 

Sheeting— To Bleach 39 

Shirt Board— Self- Adjusting 10 

Shirt Board— Care of.... 12 

Shirt Board — How to Use 11 

Shirts — Improved Method of Cutting and Making... 138 

Shirts— Selection of Material for 139 

Shirts — Shrinking tlie Muslin , 140 

Shirts — Common Faults in the Fit of 141 

Shirts — Seven Measurements 142 

Shirts — Dimensions of Medium Sized 143 

Shirts — Modern. — Front Breadth .144 

Shirts— Shoulder Measuremen t 145 

Shirts— The Shield Bosom 146 

Shirts — Back Breadth 147 

Shirts— The Yoke 148 

Shirts — Joining the Breadths 149 

Shirts— Neck Band 150 

Shirts — Sleeves 151 

Shirts— Cuffs 152 

Shirts — Inserting the Sleeves 153 

Shirts — Opening in Fron t 1 54 

Shirts— Working ..............155 

Shirts, Working— Back Breadth 156 



308 

Shirts— The Yoke of Working .....157 

Shirts — Joining the Breadths of "Working 158 

Shirts — Elderly Gentlemen's 159 

Shirts — The Bosom 160 

Shirts— To Strengthen the Bosom ,1G1 

Shirts— Collars ...102 

Shirts — Construction of Collars .,103 

Shirts — A Pleasure to Iron 10 

Shirts — Laundry Style of Folding.. 19 

Silks — Renovation of 1 96 

Silks — Acid Stains on Yiolet 205 

Silks— Aqua Ammonia for 203 

Silks — Benzoin Stains on 212 

Silks— Black Reviver for 219 

Silks— Chloroform for 204 

Silks— Detergent Fluid for 202 

Silks— Egg Method for Cleaning 201 

Silks— French Chalk 198 

Silks — French Scouring Drops 199 

Silks — Honey Mixture for Cleansing 221 

Silks— How to Use the Black Reviver 220 

Silks Lightly Soiled 223 

Silks— Old Pitch, Varnish, or Oil Stains 211 

Silks— Ox Gall for 206 

Silks — Potato Liquor for 218 

Silks — Preserving the Colors of 216 

Silks — Requisite Conditions in Renovating ......215 



269 

Silks— Spermaceti, Olein, and Sterin Stains on 208 

Silks — To Kemove Grease from 197 

Silks — To Tiemove Grease from 200 

Silks — To Remove Paint from 210 

Silks — To Remove Resin Spots from 209 

Silks — To Remove Wax Stains from 207 

Silks — To Renovate with old Kid Gloves 222 

Silks— To Wash 214 

Silks — Washing 217 

Silks— Washing Silk Shaws 225 

Silks— Washing Silk Stockings 224 

Silks— Washing Silk Tapestry 226 

Silks— Worsted and Silk Reps 227 

Soap Bark for Cleansing Purposes 279 

Soaps of Domestic Manufacture 64 

Soaps — Making Soft 65 

Soaps— To Make Good Lye for 66 

Soaps — To Preserve Grease for 67 

Soaps — To Prevent Fatty Substances from Turning 

Rancid 68 

Soaps— To Make Soft-Soap with Potash 69 

Soaps— To Make Lye Soft 70 

Soaps — Concentrated Lye for 71 

Soaps — Labor Saving 72 

Soaps — Turpentine 73 

Soaps — To Convert Soft-Soaps into Hard 74 

Soaps — Hard 75 



970 

Soaps — IIome-Made Caustic Soda 76 

Soaps — Domestic Hard 77 

Soaps — Concentrated Lye Hard 78 

Soans— Hard White Tallow 78 

Soaps — Cheap Family , 80 

Soaps— Myrtle 81 

Soaps — Chemical 82 

Soaps — Ox G all 83 

Soaps — Toilet 84 

Soaps—" Crutching" 85 

Soaps — Honey 86 

Soaps — Mush 87 

Soaps — Celebrated Windsor 88 

Soaps — Glycerine 89 

Soaps — Italian Honey 90 

Springing Pants 282 

Stains on White Linens and Cottons 91 

Stains— Acid and Alkali 112 

Stains— Acid and Tea 97 

Stains — Aniline Red Magenta 118 

Stains — Blood Stains of Lono; Standing; 116 

Stains— Claret and Port Wine 96 

Stains— Clay and Shale 121 

Stains — Essential Salts of Lemon for 104 

Stains — Fruit 93 

Stains— Fruit and Old Wine Stains .'. 98 

Stains — Grease Spots 122 



271 

Stains — Ink Spots 102 

Stains — Ink or Iron Rust on Delicate Fabrics 103 

Stains — lod i ne 117 

Stains — Iron Rust 101 

Stains — Iron Rust and Old Ink Spots ..105 

Stains — Iron Rust — Sulpliide of Ammonia l()(j 

Stains — Method for Summer Use Ill 

Stains— Mildew 107 

Stains — Mildew— Starch and Salt lOS 

Stains — Mildew — Chloride of Lime 109 

Stains — Mildew —Oxalic Acid 110 

Stains— Milk Ill 

Stains- -Nitric Acid 113 

Stains— Non-Metallic 123 

Stains on Napkins and Table Cloths 99 

Stains — Perspiration 115 

Stains — Process of Sulphuration 100 

Stains — Scorclied Linen 126 

Stains — Scouring Balls for General Use 121 

Stains— Soot 119 

Stains — Special Agents for Obstinate Cases 95 

Stains — Stai n Mixtures 125 

Stains— Tar, Pitch, Resin, Paint, &c 120 

Stains — Vegetable Juices 92 

Stains — Wine Stains in Linen 94 

Starch — Applying to Shirts 8 

Starches and Their Use 25 



273 

Starch — Congree for Muslins 34 

Starch for Colored Articles 29 

Starch — Gum Arabic 28 

Starch— Glue 30 

Starch — Isinglass 31 

Starch — Laundry Method of Preparing 7 

Starch— Potato 26 

Starch— To Make Good Flour 27 

Starch— To Starch Collars and Cuffs 9 

Starch— "Water-Proof 32 

Sulphuration — Process of 100 

T 

Table Cloths Stained 99 

Table Cloths— Stains on 123 

Table Covers— Choice 175 

Table Linen — Iron ins and Foldinnc 45 

Tapestry — Damask and Brocatello 226 

Toilet Soaps 84 

Trimmings 228 

Trimmings— To Stiffen Silk 252 

Tub— Washing Wool 195 

Veils— To Wash a Black Lace 242 

Yeils— To Wash a White Lace 241 



267 90 



273 

YelvetooTis ;../ 255 

Velvets 228 

Velvets— Chloroform for 204 

Velvets— Detergent P'lnid for 202 

Vel vets — Grease on '. J 1)0 

Velvets— The Treutmcnt of 247 

Velvets — To Extract Grease from 254 

Velvets— To Raise the Pile on 255 

Vests— To Starch and Iron White 41 

Wall Paper — Oil Marks upon ....' 305 

Washing - <:....■::■}}':^!.^^. ::: 4t> 

Washing Compound^ — French. . . :'.:'.'.'. .lil 56 

Washing Compound'^-Javelle Wat6r... ;.!..... 57 

Washing Crystals 52 

Washing Crystals — Borax 55 

Washing Crystal.^— -Detergent Fluid... ...........i. .v.. 54 

Wasjiing Crystals-rr-Englisk Method ^. ...'.... ^^AiJlW 58 

Water Hard y:.\.-i.X^i?:....^ ,.v..'J.:' 50 

Water Hard — Method of Preparing " Broke Water". 51 

Water Turbid — Popular Methods of Clearing 48 

Water Turl>id — To Clear with Effffs and Vinegar... 49 

Water-Proof— New pTcleess of Rendering Cloth 33 

Water-Proof Starch .' 32 

Water Stains on Black Crape 245 

Wine Stains 04 



274 

AVoolen Clothes — To Clean ...188 

Woolen Shawls — Scotch Method of Washing 187 

AVoolens 176 

Woolens — Black Stains on Scarlet 179 

Woolens— Colored 182 

Woolen — Spirits of Ammonia for 178 

Woolens — To Remove Grease from 177 

Woolens — Washing Choice 184 

Woolens— White 181 

Wool — Tub Washing and Bleaching 195 

Working Shirt — Cutting and Making 155 

Worsted Reps 227 

Worsted— Table Covers 175 

Wrapping Ribbons 250 

Wrapping — White Satins .....253 

Yellow Clay Stains 121 

Yellow Sulphide of Ammonia 106 

Yellow Linens — To Bleach 37 












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HECKMAN 

BINDERY INC. 

^^fJUN 90 

wi^ N. MANCHESTER, 




LIBRARY OF CONGRESS 







014 230 764 9 « !:ip;| 



